When the tank is full (or close to it) I get an odor of fuel in the garage after I take my Thunderbird out for a drive. The car starts and runs great and I haven't seen any leaks or wet spots. I'm wondering if I should check the condition of the gaskets and grommet on the fuel tank but all the instructions and tips I've seen are for later models with multiport fuel injection. My car still has the factory CFI set-up so I'm hoping someone might be able to provide proper guidance on how to remove the fule tank from one of the earlier models. My car is an '84 model with the original 5.0L CFI set-up. Appreciate any help or tips!
Update: I removed the belt yesterday and the compressor pulley turns smoothly and isn't loose or oscillating. Any ideas why the hub would start to rub against the pulley?
Recently the hub started rubbing against my AC pulley. Although everything is hooked up the AC has never worked since I've had the car so I'm not sure what would have caused this change. Before I inspect the hub, pulley and clutch, does anyone know what kind of compressor is in my car? The hub appears to have a small Ford logo followed by the part number L3U1 190780 A stamped into it. The compressor also has the Ford logo cast into the back of it. I've attached a photo of the front of the compressor.
I'm trying to remove the old front struts in my stock '84 Thunderbird. I've removed the nut on top of the strut as well as both spindle bolts but the first strut I'm trying remove seems to be held up by the bushing assembly on top of the strut tower. Do I need to remove this bushing assembly to be able to remove the strut? I thought the bushing would loosen up after removing the nut on top of the strut but that's definitely not the case. Any advice on how to proceed?
I've cleaned up my timing chain cover and installed a new crank seal in it and I'm getting ready to put it back on the engine. My engine (1984 CFI 302) has the two locating dowels. The driver side dowel is still attached to the block. The passenger side dowel came out with the timing chain cover. I was able to recover the passenger side dowel but my question is should I replace it with a new one? Should I remove and replace the driver side dowel too? If so, is there a proper way to install new locating dowels? I've read they aren't necessary but are beneficial in properly locating the timing chain cover when you reinstall it. Since this is my first time performing this repair I'll take advantage of anything that will make it go more smoothly and prevent any leaks. Thanks in advance.
A gentleman down the road from me is selling a super clean 84 Cougar. This car has the 5.0 liter engine with only 37,600 miles. It has a two-tone black upper and gray lower finish with a gray cloth interior. The finish looks practically new with no dents, dings or scratches. The interior looks just as good; no fading, rips or tears. This car was undercoated when purchased new and it shows; no rust anywhere. I took some pics of the car but not sure how to post them here. Owner's name is Larry and he's asking $6,300 for it. Car is located near Milford, Ohio. Call 513-426-1332 for details.
If you're not staying with the factory color my vote would be for the Blue Jeans blue that's available on current Ford trucks. I think that's a sharp color that would look right at home on one of our cars. Just my $.02...
I just removed the transmission and shifter parts from my 88 XR-7. I have every part down to all the brackets for the AOD and the different shift lever. I wont be re installing them and I'm in Ohio as well.
I'll likely have all the parts you need to make the conversion if this 87 Sport that I have doesn't sell by the end of the month. Been trying to sell it now for a while and not much interest. If it doesn't sell by then I'll start parting it out.
Thanks, 50RACER! Please keep me in mind if your car doesn't sell although I would prefer to see sold intact to a good home.
Like most folks with a column shifted AOD I'd like to convert my car to floor shift. When getting the parts from a donor car with a floor shift AOD would it be easier to get the entire transmission with all the linkage attached or can I get the parts I need without the transmission? I've read the TV cable is secured differently in a column shift vs. floor shift vehicle. Any advice on this conversion would be greatly appreciated.
