I have an 88 tc, and a supercoupe sitting in my yard I got for free, guy wanted 300 bucks for it till a road grater got it. Any way look at all the 5 lug conversion stuff, how does the Supercoupe brakes and front spindles compare to a 94-5 mustang? (I also have one of those I bought for 200 bucks in my yard). I was looking at doing the irs swap if it isn't gonna be a huge pain.
So stupid question, and the one I meant from get go but danced around. The brakes are a seperate harness from the engine harness? and as far as a 5.0 swap what about me not having a bunch of sensors, think it will still run or would I be better off going Megasquirt. Specifically about bunch of wires I mean, egr, tpi, fuel pump.
Thank you for the responses, will the fuel gauge die as well? I'm running an HEI distributor so all I need for it is a 12v source. About the diagram, is that the same for mustang and cougars?
OK I have an 88 turbocoupe that I swapped a carb'd 331 stroker with c4, the teeves doesn't work right and the suspension is dead. I'm going to be moving to SVO booster and monroe shocks and struts. So I would like to clean up the wiring. Can I remove the computer from the kick panel, and if so what will stay working? better yet is the ECU harness seperate from these other systems? The fuel pump is wired seperate from everything else now with a fuel pump relay kit. I'm not having much luck finding info. I'm not opposed to doing a universal wiring harness and replacing the original, and doing a Fuel injection swap from a 5.0.
Smoothing out the remaining speed bumps in my car, got 90% of the under hood stuff squared away, ordering the recommended shocks / struts when I get paid next and uncle sam let up. (Btw thank you for all the replies in that thread) Next question is brake upgrades, I want to build my car for road race type driving. Its an 88 tc which has the teeves electrohydralic whatever on it. How does it compare with the upgraded rotor size and do I need to change it out for vacuum style booster or does the teeves play nice with different calipers? I have all the parts required for the swap in the parts yard already (95 mustang, a lincoln vii, and couple newer birds and mustangs) So would be cheap. Just curious how new stuff works with the old.
Thank you for the info. I won't be lowering it though as my headers hang pretty low under the car now. I also have a 4 qt pan on my c4 and its down there (any lower and I'll be sing pavement)
I was looking at the front spindle swaps dospoogeented everywhere but my brakes are super since they are the electro hydraulic break system and stops like a champ.
Hello, Been a lurker here for a bit, just recently posted some pics of my car's engine up in the Engine bay thread. Long story short, I have an 88 tc that I grew tired of breaking the 2.3t and built a 331 stroker. I finally got it together and found that the current shock and strut combo I have (factory electric jobber) has finally died. Looking to replace them with something to beef it up in the corners (I like to drive hills and curves at a moderate speed) and don't really care about the ride quality. Another question, are my springs I have on my car are still adequate for the v8 swap? I think they may be alright as the 331 has aluminum heads and intake, where as my 2.3 t had cast iron mainfold and turbo hanging off of it and weighed close to what my current setup does. Any help and suggestions would be helpful, I have been searching and reading but most of what I see is mustang advice on the net.
I'm taking a break from it this weekend. I guess I'm going to either put another reg on the fire wall and wire in a relay off a keyed ignition source and work it that way. I'm open to suggestions. Mostly I don't understand how the fuel pump is told to run, I know that 1. Key is turned pump primes 2. pin 22 on comp is fp 3. Wire runs to IRCM on fender 4. Wire goes to Safety in trunk 5. goes to Fuel pump
I just need to know what tells to run after truck is running and what I can splice into, failing that I'll do my above Idea.
It has to be regulating it some what as that is a walbro 255 lph pump in tank and would be putting out 40 lbs otherwise, right? and the return line worked for it factory with the 4banger so it should be large enough?
Does any one know the specs for a 90 mustang gt's oil and temp sending unit? I was wanting to get aftermarket gauge but use factory sending unit. any info is appreciated.
That grey connector though, is that from the harness in the rear on the fuel pump or from somewhere else? Basically all i've done so far is pull 2.3 put in 302. I ran 3/8 hard line from back where I spliced into factory gas line, I split the power off the dist plug from the 2.3 and hooked to my HEI dist, that is all the wiring I"ve done so far.
