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Messages - ThunderFox

31
Engine Tech / Temperature Gauge
I'll give the Mustang fan a try first before the T-Stat since it's easy. But i have to have a new cat and y pipe put on since thats why the car was runnng so horribly yesterday. Its definitely an exhaust leak and i dont think its the manifolds. Those pipes look like  so it has to be that. It wanted to stall at every light and was popping and sputtering. I knew it was on borrowed time but i didnt think a leak there would affect drivability so much.
32
Engine Tech / Temperature Gauge
Quote from: thunderjet302;434872
I've got a digital gauge in mine. It lights up three bars for about 1-2 miles driving in any condition then lights up four bars after that. Doesn't matter if it's 50* or 95* with the A/C on. It stays at four bars (half way up the gauge) all the time. I had it go to five bars once when I was running the original radiator and idling in traffic with the A/C on high and the outside temp was 100*.

As far as the 180* thermostat and the 9 blade HO fan yes they are a direct swap. I run both of them along with a Police Interceptor fan clutch. The engine runs between 180*-190* according to an infrared thermometer.


Cool, sounds like my situation is normal for hot weather and AC blasting. I think I'll pick up the Mustang fan and 180* T-stat and see how that helps.

I have to deal with a new problem that just popped up at lunch today. I went out to go to the store and the car immediately was running like . Rough idle, sputtering on acceleration, almost stalling and for some reason it sounds louder. The car ran great on the way to work. So weird...
33
Engine Tech / Temperature Gauge
That is strange. As far as I know my cooling system is in good shape. It didn't go beyond the M and last week I drove about 65-70 miles round trip with only 1 or 2 30 minute stops with no A/C on(I didn't recharge it yet) in hot weather and the temp. gauge was normal. It must be how it goes with the A/C on? It still wouldn't go past the "M" but it still threw me off.

I've read the back and forth here and elsewhere, any real downside to throwing in a 180 deg. thermostat?
Also, are the 9 blade Mustang fans a direct swap?

Thanks.
34
Engine Tech / Temperature Gauge
Just wondering here. I havent driven the car in temps above 75ish yet and the temp gauge is always at the middle or a little below, never beyond the "O". Yesterday it was about 85 and I had the A/C on the entire time. Nothing unusual on the highway or streets but when I stopped somewhere and the car was idling for about 10 minutes it went on top of the "R" and was touching the "M", and even after a burst on the highway it barely went any lower. The car sat for a few hours, then on the way home it was a little over the middle but not as high as earlier.

I know my Mark VII would normally be a touch over the middle, but does this sound unusual considering where it runs in not much cooler weather?

Thanks.
35
Engine Tech / 5.0 Y Pipe
Since I haven't been able to find the replacement Y Pipe without the Cat, I figured I'd do something to hold me off until the car is more complete and deserving of a full system. Had the tailpipe cut off and dumped from a Thrush glasspack before the axle. It has a very nice, classic muscle car sound. Not too loud but loud enough. Lol

36
Engine Tech / 5.0 Y Pipe
Quote from: MechanicMatt;434540
Do they make you put your car on a dyno still down there for emissions?  Why not switch to a H pipe?  Where in Westchester?  My Grandma lives in Yorktown, Pops side grew up in Cortland Manor area.

I would rather keep the stock layout to keep costs down. I'm pretty sure I'm emissions exempt(only safety inspection) but I want to keep the Cat and don't feel like upgrading manifolds.
I'm in the Greenburgh area now but I'm originally from the Bronx.

Thanks for those diagrams, I forgot the Sport had duals so at least I can run a tailpipe with that part # if I choose to. (Not my daily car) I may be out of luck getting the Y without the Cat, and of course that part is the most corroded. Lol
37
Engine Tech / 5.0 Y Pipe
Need some help here. I've got the car running great with no error codes now. Before I move on to suspension I want a nice sounding exhaust.

I'm just looking to replace the rotting aftermarket pipes and maybe dump a Flowmaster ler. Does anyone sell just the Y Pipe for these cars? They sell the cat separately or with Y Pipe only it seems. My cat is fine but the Y is close to rusting through. Can anybody point me in the right direction? I'm not looking for performance, just sound and a new system.

Also, if I decide to keep a tailpipe, where do I find that as well? Lol Seems exhaust for these cars is ignored. Will a Mark VII one work?
38
Drivetrain Tech / Best Way To Adjust TV Cable w/o Pressure Gauge
Quote from: T-BUCKET;433790
throwing darts in the dark, but could your speedo be off?

Speedo is dead on, confirmed with GPS. I actually figured it out by finding pictures I took when I first got the car which included one of the TV cable. I lined it up based on the amount of exposed cable in the picture and the shifts are great and I have the downshift at 50mph. Thanks for the help guys, and its around the "Max" setting (maybe a little past) when using that link.
39
Drivetrain Tech / Best Way To Adjust TV Cable w/o Pressure Gauge
Quote from: thunderjet302;433761
Are you sure the cable is out all the way with the throttle wide open? With the car off remove the air tube, remove TV cable, open the throttle all the way (have someone floor it) and check two things:

1. Is the throttle blade open all the way with the pedal floored?
2. Try and stick the TV cable into the throttle body bracket. If you can pull the little piece that sticks in the throttle body past the hole is most defiantly is not at the "Max" setting.


My '86 has the "lift tab" type connector. I think you're referring to the block type from the newer cars because you're really confusing me now. Lol
40
Drivetrain Tech / Best Way To Adjust TV Cable w/o Pressure Gauge
Quote from: thunderjet302;433758
I do it as shown in the link. However I always set it at the max tension setting. I can't compare it to the AOD in my Thunderbird as it's far from stock but the stock AOD in my Mark VII does kick down from 3-2 at 50mph. You do have the transmission in D (1-2-3) and not OD (1-2-3-4) when testing for kickdown from 3-2 correct?

It's definitely in "D". It seems every setting in that range, Min to Max, the highest the downshift will occur is about 43mph. It does feel better at Max but I wonder why the downshift won't occur higher while in 3rd?

I don't know if it ever did. I always drive around in D and once I hit about 40-44 when coasting and no slow down up ahead, I manually shift to Overdrive.
42
Drivetrain Tech / Best Way To Adjust TV Cable w/o Pressure Gauge
Hey guys, finally got time to bring the T-Bird to my friends to have O2's done and I found out he disconnected the TV cable to get to it. Now we adjusted it using this site: http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm and it seems good a little past mid. The only thing is the 3-2 downshift won't occur at 50, maybe 43 max.

I also saw the video everyone links on YouTube where the guy gives it max tension, then backs off a smidge and he says that's how they did it at the factory...

Any help would be appreciated.
44
Body/Appearance/Interior / Passenger Window Off Track?
Quote from: CoogarXR;433362
If you hear the motor running steady and a "thump-thump-thump" sound with the window kicking up a tiny bit each time, that's the bushings in the motor. If that's the case, just pull the motor, and inside the motor head there are 3 bushings that disintegrate over time. They used to sell them in the "help" section in parts stores. I am sure you can make some out something, worst case.

If the window was off the track it would bind up. If it pulled off the mounts, you'd be able to lift the glass out of the door. Sounds more like the bushings to me.

Bingo! I took the panel off and the glass is definitely secured to the holder with the 2 bolts. The motor runs and makes the thumping sound. If i push up/down on the assembly as I hold down the switch the window moves fine. If pressing it on it's own, it either won't move or may move a centimeter.

Now the question is, does anyone have any tips for getting the motor out and in again? I believe its riveted in there?

Thanks.