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Topic: 87 "coug" resto winter project (Read 82119 times) previous topic - next topic

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #450
more progress,
settled on tweecer RT with a few spare tunes wide band o2 and a stock mkviii maf & housing.

suggestion from tweecer yielded a good suggestion.
i was asked to inspect and replace the three electrolytic caps in the eec.

i did inspect,, found two that had an appearance of leaking on the end facing the board.  the other one is ok,, but i will replace it as well.

fyi,, this may be why this A9L was not acting or playing nice enough with my oldest son's 88bird 306 maf upgrade we did last fall.  we ended up using the eec i got from vinnie a long while back which was a refurb.  this a9L was working fine but not as good as vinnies,, so these caps may be the problem.

see pics,, the three caps are obvious,, the only blue electorlytics.....

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #451
im not  a ford eec pro but am a pro at board repairs and such .... so any suggests on upgrading the caps to a type better than paste filled pen 15e cans?

you can see they are if anything,,, barely bad because the tops are not bulding nor the sides and no discoloration,,, just the obvious muckedy muck under two of them,, telling me that they are leaky. 

i can tell its not left over flux or whatever,, the third good appearing one is clean as a whistle underneath.

someone repaired already and did not clean up after themselves??

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #452
Quote from: jcassity;465698

someone repaired already and did not clean up after themselves??


tilted these  two caps a tad and found the + leg was not in the game.
good for me,, gives me a pig tail to solder to.

so these two caps are both radial 16v 47uf,, the other is 63v 10uf. 
i may use the next size up voltage on these two caps,,, like 25v maybe,, dono yet, depends on what i find in my caps stash

the 63v 10uf one is the same profile can as these two 16v ones.  gotta look up the color code and what "blue" means though,, probably like a number beginning with 6 since its blue.  these things tend to follow resistor color code for wattage and such,, so there is a method to the madness.,, just gotta make sure i replace with something that meets & exceeds the oem design.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #453
Here's a how to link for the cap replacement:

In the 3rd photo down you'll notice the rating is printed on the capacitor itself. Replacement capacitors should at least meet that rating.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #454
nothing to see in the third pic,,

thats ok.  i have the normal info,, just wanted to make sure i used the correct wattage.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #455
replaced the two 16v 47uf caps with 50v 47uf,, same radial electrolytic style and size.

problem was for me that the oem ones were rated 105degC.  i had plenty 85degC caps,, so i went to some s circuit cards and found what i needed.

who wants to test my EEC out????

i mail it to you and you test it.... i can spot some $ for this to you.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #456
I would but I'd like to be clear that the factory wiring won't fry it. My A9P is happy with the factory wiring, I would just like to verify the A9L would be.

Otherwise try your other son's car.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #457
we did,, we had this a9L in his car when we did the maf swap upgrade....

mason said that he felt like the vinnie eec which was a reman seemed to do better.

when mason comes back in here in a couple weeks we will swap this one over to see.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #458
found this interesting date on my rear seat transmission support brace system you only find if you look under your car.
under the rear seat passanger foot rest there are two bolts sticking down tied to a flat bar that typically spans the transmission tunnel.

these bolts are welded to another brace inside the car that follows the profile of the interior of the transmission tunnel.

if you dont have the brace on the bottom of the car,, water will get into your floor pans and you wont know it.

this date must represent that point in time when the physical drive shaft was installed on the assembly line,, should preceed the actual build date of the cars door jam sticker if my assumptions are correct.  i have two bars shown here,, each are in line with the door jam sticker by just a brief moment of a few days.

its like they time stamp when the car rolled off the line,, then the door jam sticker must denote a "release date" to a dealer or final inspection ready for "sell" date or something.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #459
moved back to the rear gear to change fluid and thought about a mod.

i dislike the design of how to remove and add new fluids so i integrated a drain plug and a fill plug.

i did a real test of convenience last night and it was a breeze to add new oil.  obviously draining will be easy as well.

the drain plug consists of a "Jack Nut" insert that collapses and gives you a way to thread in a bolt. I included jbweld around the jack nut mating surfaces to seal that penetration. 
the bolt fits and with it is a belvue washer (cupped washer) along with a spare fuel injector o-ring.  snug it down and thats all it takes. 

the added "fill" plug is a spare petpen 15 valve a harvested from an old radiator.  i ran a tap into the hole i drilled and was amazed that i was actually able to get "a thread" of profile that matched the petpen 15.  its got a generous rubber gasket and a convenient wing nut style which requires no tools to remove it.
the elevation of the "fill" plug is correctly placed at the same height elevation as the NPT plug found on the front we normally would use to fill the rear.

i painted the areas below each new adder so that visually you can "see" if there is a leak or failure in either plug.

enjoy,,,, hope doing this was ok........ cause its done now.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #460
time to move on down to exhaust.  oddly crazy times over here where the car seems to be taking less priority, i have to change that.

here are my parts pics for this post to cover the exhaust and wide band oxygen sensor.

I have good lers and cats from my oldest boys car which we just built a custom 2 1/2'' Hpipe system welded up.
i gutted his cats and getting surface rust off and neutralizing the rust.
the lers are really in great shape yet the kit i got below gives me a second set to test out as well.

here is what i bought yesterday............... apparently summit does a Vet discount as well , fyi!!!

I am paying 7$ for the one band clamp, yet is stainless steel , i am hoping to find a like solution for "butt" and "lap" band clamps at or  under 4$ ea.,, likely not possible because of the materials req'd for such a item.
this one band clamp will join my two piece hpipe.
i bought this Hpipe mainly because a XR7 owner chimed in on a review and said it fit with his shorty headers like it was meant for the car.

i wanted to go full Stainless on this but i will leave that cost up to my youngest boy later , i am at a point where now i need to make sure the budget  i spent on my sons cars are close to the same figure.  i hit about 6800 on masons bird,,, i hit 5800 on this coug for chance yesterday.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #461
getting all this installed now

this stuff from rock auto fits like a glove!!!!!!

the second o2 sensor on the drivers side is my wide band o2.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #462
getting my tweecer chip stuff all groomed in.

you cant fasten down your eec mount bracket wth the tweecer installed so you have to slip it up in there and secure as creative as you can get.

the gray flat cable clips in so its not going to pop off easily

the black cable is a slip on usb so i made a lanyard tied from the usb,, over top the tweecer and down to an eec screw with washer.  now it will safely stay connected.

the rotary switch is for my 4 custom tunes and pos 5 is to allow the tweecer to be bypassed by the oem eec incase things go wrong with the tweecer.

in my case running off the eec might as well be bad as well since the eec cant keep up with 331cu in... atleast thats what i  am told.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #463
You tuning it yourself or taking it to a shop?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #464
I always hated the way a twEECer fits. Or rather, the way it DOESN'T fit.  My QuarterHorse is almost completely internal to the EEC. And I can connect and tune wirelessly by Bluetooth now.