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Topic: soft pedal after rear disc conversion. (Read 2459 times) previous topic - next topic

soft pedal after rear disc conversion.

Reply #15 –
As I'm going to be doing this swap soon, I was wondering: Will a master cyl from a 94-95 Mustang without ABS work? I've heard of people using Crown Vic and SVO master cylinders, but wouldn't a 94-95 Stang unit be better (provided it would even fit)?
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

soft pedal after rear disc conversion.

Reply #16 –
I've heard of using Crown Vic MC's even on stock brakes becuase thier larger bore increases pedal feel.

soft pedal after rear disc conversion.

Reply #17 –
Quote
As I'm going to be doing this swap soon, I was wondering: Will a master cyl from a 94-95 Mustang without ABS work? I've heard of people using Crown Vic and SVO master cylinders, but wouldn't a 94-95 Stang unit be better (provided it would even fit)?

SVO/Crown Vic master cylinders = 1983-86 cars (2-line setup, cast iron)

For the 1987-up cars (3-line setup, aluminum), the theory is that the stock m/c bore is good enough for rear discs. For fluid capacity I would tend to think that's probably true enough, since it has a single large reservoir, but the problem happens when you have a glitch like what's being talked about here. It's like, where to start tracking it down? I've always believed that you have to look to the oldest parts of the system first and replace them. And almost all the time, the oldest parts are the booster and master cylinder.

The booster thing is sort of borderline: there is enough vacuum produced to keep the brake system working correctly, even going drums to discs. But more boost is always better. So looking at Cobra boosters is usually first on the list and I can't disagree with that line of thinking. However, I am still running my stock 20-year-old booster with the full Cobra 13"/11.65" discs and pedal feel is outstanding. So the booster isn't the issue unless it's leaking, and you'll hear that in the cabin.

So it's on to the m/c. Remember, more bore = more fluid displacement = lower pedal feel. Less bore = less fluid displacement = better pedal feel. The key is to find the right bore (about 1" to 1-1/8" seems to be about right) to balance the system correctly. I like the Mustang suggestion Carm, so long as it's not from a car with the Hydroboost system, I think it would probably work. The p/n will probably interchange with something else, too, knowing Ford.

About the prop valve: a few people have reported (even on this board) that using a stock TC prop valve works fine. And it makes sense since it's set up for a better front/rear bias. But also remember that TC's had larger brake lines going to the rear. Still, it's a practical solution and is much less hassle than going through the FRPP plug/adjustable prop valve/brake line jumper thing. But that also has its merits for being able to fine-tune the front/rear bias. I have the adjustable setup on the convertible and honestly, I haven't touched it in over 7 years. It's working great and I don't see the need to continually monkey with the settings.

The bad news is, going from rear drums to discs on a Fox vehicle usally leads to a Frankenstein-type braking system. The good news is, there is ALWAYS some kind of Ford vehicle part that can provide a solution to a problem.

soft pedal after rear disc conversion.

Reply #18 –
i swapped mine about two months ago and bled the  out of all four wheels and mine has never had a problem.