starter grinding problem

Topic: starter grinding problem (Read 1335 times) previous topic - next topic

starter grinding problem

February 13, 2006, 05:08:09 PM

ok guys first off I have to rag on fords design for the kmember the only way Ive found to change the starter is to unbolt the driverside motor mount and jack that side of the motor up twisting it or by taking the passeger side exhaust manifold off. what the hell were they thinking? anyone who isnt mechanically inclined couldnt change a starter maybe thats the whole idea. anyway now that Im done with that heres the problem. when I go to start the car the starter grinds really really bad half the time it doesnt turn the flywheel the other half of the time it starts but with alot of noise. Ive changed the starter about 5 times. Ive changed the flywheel a couple times. the tranny 3 long story on that it wasnt just because of the starter. no matter what I do it still grinds. its had shims in it and also been done with no shims in it.Im at my wits end with this thing the only thing that hasnt been changed is the engine. could it be possible the engine is worn out and the bearings are letting the crank sit to far back for the flywheel and starter to line up correctly? all I know is Ive taken the flywheel and starter off a car that worked perfectly with very minimal noise to where it sounded like a new car does and it still doesnt make a difference. the other motor and tranny that was in the car didnt make this sound and the 5.0 that was in it didnt do it. but for some reason this engine does it. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I have the next couple days off due to not being able to drive.

starter grinding problem

Reply #1 – February 13, 2006, 05:30:36 PM

Sounds like your TC isnt seated correctly and causing a bind. Also there is a little play on the starter and it will rotate is not tightened properly, only takes about an 1/8 of an inch for the starter to skip on the fly. First I would try to turn the engine by hand. If it turns over by hand then look to you TC and starter mounting. But I think you will find the problem in the TC. woarn engine bearing can cause a problem not with the crank moving backward but with the cranck rotating smoothly, If this is infact the issue you are looking a a rebuild in the very near future. Has this engine ever ran? Is the fly wheen on in the correct position? Is the torque converter the same that came off that tranny and is it seated completely.

Dont mind typos i was typing fast, cause its time to go home

starter grinding problem

Reply #2 – February 13, 2006, 07:06:32 PM

ok my first question was what is the tc but I figured it out. it does turn over by hand if you hook a socket to the flywheel bolt on the balancer on front. the motor runs its pretty wore out but it still runs alright. the tc is the right one and seated properly I think its the starter not seated right.

starter grinding problem

Reply #3 – February 13, 2006, 08:48:17 PM

;oosen the top bolt of the starter see if it will rock over towards the block then tighten down

starter grinding problem

Reply #4 – February 13, 2006, 09:49:14 PM

yeah I found out my top bolt was loose it was all the way in the hole and snug but there was still about a 1/4 inch between the washer and the starter considering its a lock washer it was even farther before the head hit the bottom. did ford make the top bolt shorter? I thought they were the same length. anyway jerryrigged it to work until I can get another bolt. gotta love the extra nuts from the other cars. stuck one in between the washer and the starter it tightened down but I still have to take it back out later to change it. and to anyone who changes the starter taking the exhaust off. dont forget to hook your plug wires back up if you take them off. I forgot the back two and the girlfriend took off in the car before I could double check everything. she came back and said baby somethings wrong with the car. my first thought was great what broke now. my second thought was when is the income tax coming so I can put the 5.0 in lol

starter grinding problem

Reply #5 – February 13, 2006, 10:30:18 PM

Glad it worked out, I had the same problem with mine, think the 3.8 starter is hard wait till you do the 5.0 with headers.

starter grinding problem

Reply #6 – February 13, 2006, 10:33:51 PM

oh no we're gonna put a tube kmember in or Im gonna figure out someway to make a hole in it so I can get to the thing without this much problem that wont make it weak. thats just unreal how difficult they can make something as simple as changing a starter. any harder and it'd almost be easier to just pull the motor out of it to change it. also going with shorty headers so it shouldnt be to much different then the manifolds should it?

starter grinding problem

Reply #7 – February 14, 2006, 03:52:29 AM

only ford ive ever had to lift the motor on to get the starter off was a v-8 mustang II.

glad you got it figured out though congrats:)

starter grinding problem

Reply #8 – February 14, 2006, 08:33:15 AM

when I changed the starter in my 88 mustang I never had to lift a motor or anything, granted the location for the starter is a pain in the ass to get to, but if you get some long enough extensions you can get to the top bolt through the wheel well. Just dont be like me and accidently drop the starter and break the ground wire, nowhere sells that length lol, had to bolt of the cables together to go from my starter to solenoid :(

starter grinding problem

Reply #9 – February 14, 2006, 09:39:29 AM

you guys should try it on a 87 bird with a 3.8 unless its just my car its a pain in the arse

starter grinding problem

Reply #10 – February 14, 2006, 03:42:22 PM

ive done it in an 87 with a 3.8 and an 87 as well as an 88 with a 5.0...its not that bad...