Trouble codes and chaos January 21, 2018, 08:07:44 PM Hello All. Stupid newby here to the TC. I just got a poorly running 1988 TC Auto. First few things I found was a leak at the turbo to exhaust pipe and the cat was plugged up. I cut the cat out and this seemed to help a bunch. No luck on fixing the minor leak yet. Put new plugs, cap, rotor, cleaned throttle body and IAC. Cleaned VAM with MAF cleaner and put on a cone filter to remove the stock airbox. Did a base idle reset and adjusted the TPS. Fired the car up and getting the following codes. Key Only: 88, 22,41, 65 and Engine on: 12, 22, 34, 41, 74 & 77. It revs better than it did before but it does backfire some. It has a hunting idle but I got it to 1000rpms. Engine shakes a bit and thinking it may have a vacuum leak somewhere but visual inspection looks good. The bad is I found a water leak running down the exhaust pipe and it leaked out past the passenger side front tire. Any ideas on that leak? Thanks Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #1 – January 21, 2018, 08:19:14 PM PS The car has been sitting for many years. Put 5 gallons of Premium as the tank was almost empty. I changed the fuel filter as well to be safe. Also found out it’s not the original engine so someone may not have connect everything correctly. My first indicator was the IAC has a straight plug in that looks like one from a SVO or NA Mustang. Also timing is set at 10 with the spout out. Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #2 – January 22, 2018, 03:31:44 PM KOEO On demand code 88--Electric fan drive solenoid (in the IRCM) I think the fan should run for a short spurt during this test.There is a single pulse (or a code 10 if using a code reader) between the on demand codes and the memory codes.I am guessing where the break is. I think the 22 should have showed-up in both places. Memory code 22--MAP sensor out of spec. Memory code 41-- O2 sensor not switching. Lean indication. Memory code 65--System did not go into closed loop fuel control.KOER code 12--Self test could not reach fast idle RPM spec. code 22--MAP sensor out of spec. code 34--EGR flow too low. code 41--O2 sensor lean code 74--Brake on/off switch test failed. code 77--Goose test failed74 and 77 are dynamic response tests. When you get the single pulse (or a code 10 if using a code reader) during KOER you need to goose the gas momentarily to WOT, then push and release the brake. Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #3 – January 22, 2018, 03:39:01 PM Thanks Softtouch. So I am assuming my next steps will be a new BARO sensor and clean my EGR valve? I tried to clean the valve, but I didn't have a big enough wrench at the time to get the line off the back. Also I think I read I need to check my O2 sensor wiring or it may just need a new one since the car has over 200k miles on it. Thanks! Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #4 – January 22, 2018, 03:52:58 PM Quote from: Biff Bastion;464358Thanks Softtouch. So I am assuming my next steps will be a new BARO sensor and clean my EGR valve? I tried to clean the valve, but I didn't have a big enough wrench at the time to get the line off the back. Also I think I read I need to check my O2 sensor wiring or it may just need a new one since the car has over 200k miles on it. Thanks!I think you may have responded before I finished editing my post.According to the EVTM, you should have a MAP sensor. Make sure the vacuum is hooked up. The EVTM shows it mounted behind the IRCM module. Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #5 – January 22, 2018, 03:55:12 PM Oh okay. All the reading I saw was saying that these cars didn't come with a MAP but only a BARO. When I can get back to the car I will check that. I remember seeing the module next to the VAM box, but cant remember if it had a hose on the end of it or not. Thank you! Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #6 – January 22, 2018, 04:01:29 PM I would fix the map sensor problem first and see what codes are left after that. Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #7 – January 22, 2018, 04:05:06 PM Quote from: Biff Bastion;464361Oh okay. All the reading I saw was saying that these cars didn't come with a MAP but only a BARO. When I can get back to the car I will check that. I remember seeing the module next to the VAM box, but cant remember if it had a hose on the end of it or not. Thank you! I don't have a Turbo Coupe so I can only go by what I see in the EVTM.Since it has a vane air flow meter, you would think it would have a Baro meter instead of a MAP.Ok after some research.. The EVTMs for 83-87 Turbos say it is a Baro sensor.The 88 EVTM says MAP sensor. Typo in the 88EVTM?? Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #8 – January 29, 2018, 12:32:10 PM Well I tried a new Motorcraft BARO sensor that matched the original numbers on the car and still getting the same code 22. I changed out the FPR, EGR valve, spark plug wires, O2 sensor this go around. Now my IAC decided to stop working, but I think that is a wiring issue I have to fix since the previous owners hacked the end up. Now my codes I am getting are Key On 88, 22, 41....then engine running 34, 41, (74 and 77 but know we can kind of omit those). The positive is its less codes this time by 2. :) Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #9 – January 29, 2018, 12:43:19 PM Now this makes me wonder. This car I know had an engine swap in the past. I just saw this note under the Thunderbird code listing "While the BP has a port typical of a MAP sensor, this port is NOT hooked to any vacuum source, and simply is a atmosphere vent." I know mine is in fact connected to a vacuum hose. Can someone tell me on an 88 model should the line be kept open or plugged into vacuum? Thanks! Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #10 – January 29, 2018, 02:58:42 PM No Turbo Coupe had a MAP sensor, ever... No vac to BARO sensor... Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #11 – January 29, 2018, 04:14:45 PM No hose....do not connect it to vac source. It is in fact a BAP.Code 34..... Look for a sticker probably close to the hood latch under the hood that mentions an EGR mod. There was a recall that effectively disables the EGR and will throw the code. If no sticker....look for a lime green/black vacuum delay valve close to the EGR valve.I'm surprised you aren't getting a knock sensor code. Usually you have to tap the intake with wrench or something for it to not show up.John Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #12 – January 30, 2018, 09:05:24 AM Something to test as a side note- fuel pressure. These cars, especially when they sit, the hose inside the gas tank that goes from the pump to the top plate will rot. You'll get fuel, but inadequate pressure. It will run, but it will run like shiznit. Seeing that O2 sensor reporting lean can be a sign of this. Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #13 – January 30, 2018, 03:27:21 PM Thanks guys. I will disconnect that line as soon as I can get to the car this weekend. Hopefully it will make it run better.John, maybe the code gods thought I was blessed with too many already and decided to give me a pass on the knock sensor. Yeah I couldn’t be so lucky. :) I think I did see the green part you speak of. I will look closer for that when I can. I ordered a Gillis manual boost controller today as the one on the car is broken. The top pops right off and won’t seal. Perhaps that could be causing a vacuum leak as well? Ahhhh okay thanks for the heads up CoogarXR. I was going to replace the fuel pump too at some point so that's very good to know. Maybe I will see if I can grab a pressure tester and connect it to the rail just to see what I am getting. Quote Selected
Trouble codes and chaos Reply #14 – January 30, 2018, 04:45:18 PM If you mean the factory boost controller won't seal.....then yes that's a source of unmetered air. You can bypass it by pulling both lines off the BCS and joining them. That will give you full boost as soon as you can make it. Personally I would plug both lines to keep boost at minimum untill you get things sorted out.John Quote Selected
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