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Topic: I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help. (Read 2361 times) previous topic - next topic

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

This coming week is spring break at the college, so I decided to drive the '85 T-Bird home. I'm still having issues with the front of the car shaking when braking. There is no pulsations in the pedal, but the steering wheel shakes pretty bad. Also, there is a squeaking noise coming from the right front brake.
Here's what I've done to the car:
Replaced rotors, pads, rear shoes, struts and shocks. I mounted and balanced new tires on the stock rims. I've inspected the steering rack, tie rods, and ball joints (everything is within specs).
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #1
Could be your bearings..

Also, did you wiggle the tire in several directions? It's possible to misdiagnose a bad ball joint as good only by visually inspecting it...usually, when you move the tire in and out at the top and bottom will it be apparent.

Same with tie rods...have someone turn the wheel back and forth, and lay on the ground under the front and watch for excessive play on both sides.


Might be your calipers are binding, or wanting to seize. Anyone close by that's Fox savvy you can have take a quick peek at it?
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #2
Now that most of the front end stuff is replaced, I would get a good alignment
Also be sure to get a before and after spec sheet
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #3
I had my chassis (steering and suspension) professor inspect everything as well. The ball joints are of the wear indicator type. They still have plenty of life. We checked the tie rods (all good). Wheel bearings are adjusted properly. I've lubricated the caliper slides, and I know the pistons aren't seized (they slid in when I put the new pads on).
Unfortunately, I don't know of any Fox body guys in central Iowa (I'm home for spring break).
I'm planning on getting it aligned this week.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #4
What did the ujoints look like? Swap the tires front to rear, bent driveshaft? Does it go away with speed, or get worse?
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #5
I've put the rear of the car up on Jack stands and run it up to 80 MPH (I know, not smart), and there were no vibrations.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #6
It only happens during braking.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #7
What's the run out on the rotors, and they weren't the original bearings either, were they?
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #8
Rotors are brand new. Have about 800 miles on them. It did this before I replaced the rotors. I've replaced the inner wheel bearings. The outers were carefully cleaned and inspected. I've properly adjusted them.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

 

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #9
Go ahead and check the run-out on the rotors. Sometimes new parts have problems. Also, if the calipers are not sliding properly, stopping will create heat on just one side of the rotor, thus warping them. I see not mention of the rear brakes. Sometimes a vibration can travel and make you think it is coming from the front, when it is really coming from the rear. Have those drums been turned?

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #10
I would be sure to check the rotor run-out on the car. With the wheel removed, fasten the rotors down with lug nuts. Attach the base of the tool to something solid on the car. Then, put the gauge part against the rotor. Spin the rotor by hand slowly and see if the needle moves.

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #11
Thanks for the input.
I don't have a dial indicator to check runout. The caliper slides are properly greased.
I mentioned earlier that I had the rear end of the car up on jack stands and ran it up to about 80 MPH with no vibrations. The drums are fine.
I'm not entirely sure why the new rotors keep being brought up. This was an issue before I installed the new ones. I put the new rotors on in hope that it would take care of the issue. It did not.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #12
Bearings or ball joints. I'll wager 10 bucks on it. Who wants to hold the money...I've got paypal locked and loaded. ;)
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #13
The wear indicators on the ball joints still show that they have plenty of life left. I'm not sure why you think they are bad? The inner wheel bearings have been replace recently and I adjusted them properly.
Cornfed85

1985 Thunderbird - 3.8 V6, C5  :ford:  :birdsmily:

I'm still having a brake issue. Would appreciate help.

Reply #14
It really sounds like an alignment problem, excessive toe in or out to be specific.
Either that or the spindle could be scared, why exactly were only the inner bearings changed?

These are just suggestions assuming every other suspension component is in good condition
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout: