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Topic: All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working (Read 1326 times) previous topic - next topic

All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

So i'm completely stumped,
A while ago i turn the key and hear a pop and all the gauges stop working. The first time it included the RPM+Speedo. Turns out it was an ignition switch so i replaced that and everything was good for awhile. But one day I start it up again and the RPM and speedo still work but everything else (except for the ammeter) stop working. I checked the fuses (all good) and thought it was a voltage regulator, summit racing was barely able to hook me up with one (I looked everywhere, rare part lol).  Just got it installed tonight but it didn't fix anything :mad:So now im completely stumped.....only idea is sending units, but not every single one would go bad all at once would they? It's been too long without a working gas gauge lmfao

All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

Reply #1 –
Check that the regulator is getting Key battery and ground. If not the gauges wont work. Sorry to say those regulators are finikey. I have actually went through a couple to find one good one. But first you must check to see if the regulator is getting the correct voltage in and ground. then check with a test light for pulsing 5 Volts to ground. The easiest way to check is disconnect the temp sender at the block and ground an old fashioned test light to the block and probe the wire going to the sender with it disconnected from the sender. Your test light should blink dim when you key the ignition. Good luck!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

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All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

Reply #2 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;424197
Check that the regulator is getting Key battery and ground. If not the gauges wont work. Sorry to say those regulators are finikey. I have actually went through a couple to find one good one. But first you must check to see if the regulator is getting the correct voltage in and ground. then check with a test light for pulsing 5 Volts to ground. The easiest way to check is disconnect the temp sender at the block and ground an old fashioned test light to the block and probe the wire going to the sender with it disconnected from the sender. Your test light should blink dim when you key the ignition. Good luck!!


Thanks for the input, I'll give it all a shot! Dang regulators lol :toilet:

All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

Reply #3 –
It looks like the regulator is fine, but no dice.  I was checking the EVTM and I'm really starting to suspect the ignition switch I got might be a lemon. I've checked everything from the ground up, I did discover a 20 amp fuse where it should've been a 15amp on fuse spot #17 (fuel gauge, instrument cluster related stuff), I put a new 15 in there for the future.  I just think it seems funny that the original ig switch that was built with the car went out after 25 years with everything working fine prior, then it goes out and everything falls to pieces, it's gotta be the autozone ig switch IMO. :punchballs: Any opinions? Ive gotten used to no fuel gauge but the one that worries me is the temp one, especially in the winter D:

All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

Reply #4 –
You said "Autozone switch". I think you answered your problem there. ;)

Definitely try another ignition switch.

All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

Reply #5 –
If you want to modify your IVR for only few bucks, buy 7805T linear regulator, 100n and 10u capacitor. It fits nicely to the IVR shell. Slightly better solution (and a bit more expensive) is switched regulator LM2576T-5. It has 4 components and I think they may fit inside as well. LM2576T-5 will work cooler, because it is more efficient, but for our purposes are both OK.

All gauges except RPM+Speedo not working

Reply #6 –
Quote from: EricCoolCats;424236
You said "Autozone switch". I think you answered your problem there. ;)

Definitely try another ignition switch.

Lol, actually I finally figured it out, it wasn't even autozone's fault.  That 20 amp fuse where the 15 was supposed to be, I JUST switched it out for the 15.  So the new switch was good but I'm 99% sure it got fried because the circuit wasn't properly protected >_< I'll find out for sure tomorror