Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Topic: Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; ) (Read 1979 times) previous topic - next topic

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

July 17, 2013, 10:18:11 PM

Ok, so, about 2 years ago i put a carb breathin 302 in my 1986 thunderbird that originally came with a 3.8 v6. I pretty much just cut and capped all wires that lead to some sort of emissions device, fuel injection, ECU, etc etc, and tucked them away in the engine bay and re-routed wires that i needed around them.

Well now im putting my new custom 427 ROUSH block and want to do everything perfect, including wiring.

So my question is this.

Besides the normal headlight wires and such, What other wires need to go to engine bay? Such as to the battery or solenoid?

It sounds stupid but im asking this because when i look at all the harnesses and under the dash, there is soooo much electronics, junction blocks, splicers, inline fuses, this thing, that thing, that i dont know what to do. And i want to make sure that i route all wires needed for anything else such as the locks, windows, and power seats, and not accidently cut or cross wires leaving me with an electrical problem up the road.

Any info or pics is greatly appreciated!!!!

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #1 – July 17, 2013, 10:54:16 PM

You goin carbed again with the new engine? Literally half or more of the wires in my engine harness are not being used anymore since I deleted all the emissions bs and went megasquirt. I should get a picture of how few pins are on the megasquirt ECU compared to the stock one. Just need injectors, ignition, tps, map, engine temp, oil pressure, and starter.

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #2 – July 18, 2013, 10:09:30 AM

fuse links from the solenoid need to stay and wires,, all these wires is where i would start.
soem fuse links feed inside the car, some to the alternator.

headlamps loop from pass to driver side fire wall,, all that stays

focus on these two items and you will capture 95% of the wires that need to stay.

the other 5% we can deal with individually later.

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #3 – July 18, 2013, 10:10:42 AM

Quote from: bryan163;418827

You goin carbed again with the new engine? Literally half or more of the wires in my engine harness are not being used anymore since I deleted all the emissions bs and went megasquirt. I should get a picture of how few pins are on the megasquirt ECU compared to the stock one. Just need injectors, ignition, tps, map, engine temp, oil pressure, and starter.

you and others need to do a write up on converting to MegaSquirt.

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #4 – July 18, 2013, 02:58:14 PM

You should be able to just pull the entire engine harness out. Unplug it at the drivers side strut tower, take the computer out of the passenger side kick panel, unhook any plugs and grounds, and then pull the harness out of the firewall. You will need to keep the plug/plugs from the drivers side end to hook up your 12v switched power, oil pressure, water temp, and tach, but those should be the only 4 wires from your engine harness that you will be using.

as for the fuse links and starter solenoid, you can move the solenoid anywhere you want, just extend/shorten wires as needed. some people like to put them in under the fender, but I prefer behind the strut tower. Still out of sight, but easy to get to if the solenoid happens to fail and you need to jump the terminals to start it or need to replace it. The headlight harness can be ran inside the fender and under the top bar of the core support rather easily by running it through the hole where the cruise control cables come through.

If done right, the only wires that you will have visible under your hood will be the battery cables, oil pressure, water temp, tach lead, 12v switched power, and whatever wiring is associated with your ignition system. I'm going with Duraspark, so a little careful wire placement and locating the module on the back side of the passenger strut tower will make it all but disappear.

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #5 – July 19, 2013, 01:18:33 PM

Quote

You goin carbed again with the new engine?

As of now, yes. if igo injection ill do like a FAST 2.0 EFI

Quote

You should be able to just pull the entire engine harness out. Unplug it at the drivers side strut tower, take the computer out of the passenger side kick panel, unhook any plugs and grounds, and then pull the harness out of the firewall.

BOOM! Thats what im looking for lol I just wated to make sure that by ripping out all that on passenger sde, it wouldnt have a negative effect on rest of circuits. The only thing that really sucks is that most of the wires im not using are all permanently terminated at either a connector which splices off to other wires or the fuse block. I really wish i could clean it up but all i can do is just snip them shorter.

What im going to try and do is get to te key tumbler and find the wire tabs on that. Then i will route the BAT,ACCY,IGN, and RUN wires to where they go, and then splice of ignition wire and create my own fuse panel for all my aftermaket stuff....?

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #6 – July 19, 2013, 01:41:53 PM

Can't wait to see this project !

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #7 – July 19, 2013, 02:24:08 PM

How are you triggering the fuel pump??

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #8 – July 23, 2013, 09:31:20 AM

i would use the cam for fuel :)

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #9 – July 24, 2013, 06:05:18 AM

Personally i would not use a mechanical pump. It seems like some of the mechanical pumps do not like modern fuels. With all the blended fuels on the market i would stay with an electric pump with a bypass regulated at the pressure you want to run. This way you will have a pump that you know will be compatible with modern fuels.

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #10 – July 24, 2013, 08:15:16 PM

Quote from: cougarbird86;418895

BOOM! Thats what im looking for lol I just wated to make sure that by ripping out all that on passenger sde, it wouldnt have a negative effect on rest of circuits. The only thing that really sucks is that most of the wires im not using are all permanently terminated at either a connector which splices off to other wires or the fuse block. I really wish i could clean it up but all i can do is just snip them shorter.

What im going to try and do is get to te key tumbler and find the wire tabs on that. Then i will route the BAT,ACCY,IGN, and RUN wires to where they go, and then splice of ignition wire and create my own fuse panel for all my aftermaket stuff....?

are you keeping A/C? I think some of the A/C system wires may be mixed in with the engine harness, but it shouldn't be to hard to unloom the harness and keep just the A/C wiring if you are keeping it

Help the electricaly disadvantaged! ; )

Reply #11 – July 26, 2013, 02:12:29 AM

Quote

Personally i would not use a mechanical pump. It seems like some of the mechanical pumps do not like modern fuels. With all the blended fuels on the market i would stay with an electric pump with a bypass regulated at the pressure you want to run. This way you will have a pump that you know will be compatible with modern fuels

Yeah i hd trouble with mechanical once. Ever since then, i stayed with electric and regulated bypass system.

Quote

How are you triggering the fuel pump??

Im making my own, fuse,relay,circuit breaker panel to run all of my custom electronics. Hopefully i can get my pics together soon and upload a project thread.