Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Topic: Brakes have failed, mech cant help (Read 10722 times) previous topic - next topic

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #45 – May 03, 2013, 12:40:41 PM

Busy? Welcome to the adult world. No one has time.

Anyway, without you doing the trouble-shooting, no one can point you in the right direction. That's why those procedures have been written...so people can systematically, and efficiently determine the source of the problem. The alternative is to throw parts (and money) at it, hoping you fix it. Since we're not there in front of your car, and it's not as simple as visually identifying a broken part, you have to do the diagnosis yourself. We can't probe wires, etc from here.

The answer to your problem lies in the info contained on that page. It's up to you to figure out the culprit.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #46 – May 03, 2013, 01:56:44 PM

Well the only thing i know about beams is when we expanded the shop.

John Churic supplied us with a 10" Wide 33 Beam app 30 feet long and it weighed 990 lbs. That is about all i know about BEAMS. The MOTHER WAS so heavy i wanted to CRY. It was my job to get it in the shop for the garage door opening. And it took 20 of my friends to move it. Other than that the iron workers lifted it and installed it like it was a feather. Naturally they had machines. other than that it is used all the time to hold up the building. That was 40 Years ago.

BUSY it is my thinking that GOD messed up when he made the universe and man and women.

Why in the world would he give you a new set of TEETH at 7 years old and not 47. That was a big one. And second why would he only make 24 hours in a day??? Doubling that would be a PLUS. And last but not least why did he give me parts that have a shelf life. That was a big one and i wonder if he was feeling silly when he decided that one !!!

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #47 – May 04, 2013, 10:24:11 AM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;414422

Well the only thing i know about beams is when we expanded the shop.

John Churic supplied us with a 10" Wide 33 Beam app 30 feet long and it weighed 990 lbs. That is about all i know about BEAMS. The MOTHER WAS so heavy i wanted to CRY. It was my job to get it in the shop for the garage door opening. And it took 20 of my friends to move it. Other than that the iron workers lifted it and installed it like it was a feather. Naturally they had machines. other than that it is used all the time to hold up the building. That was 40 Years ago.

BUSY it is my thinking that GOD messed up when he made the universe and man and women.

Why in the world would he give you a new set of TEETH at 7 years old and not 47. That was a big one. And second why would he only make 24 hours in a day??? Doubling that would be a PLUS. And last but not least why did he give me parts that have a shelf life. That was a big one and i wonder if he was feeling silly when he decided that one !!!

How about making most of us wait until our bodies are just about worn out and we can't hardly remember our own names before we can retire. The Good Book says something about us regressing back to the state of childhood....more diapers (YUK!)

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #48 – May 04, 2013, 04:25:31 PM

You got it DIAPERS!!!!

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #49 – May 05, 2013, 03:08:58 AM

So the relay under my vacuum doesnt match the colors that the webpage chuch gave me. It should have GY/Y, T/Y, GY/R, and PK/LB but I have GY/R, RED/YELLOW, a bare wire and a pink wire. So I figure that the T/Y from the page is my R/Y and the GY/Y is the bare wire. So I connected the R/Y and GY/R. I heard a buzzing sound I i figure that to be the pump motor. So now I need to test on the PUMP MOTOR RELAY but I cant find it. I know what is looks like from the drawing on the webpage chuck gave me but I cant find it. But it seems like a have it narrowed down to the Ignition switch or the PWS. But I need help with where the PUMP MOTOR RELAY is.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #50 – May 05, 2013, 04:38:03 PM

Quote from: SR71blackbird;414494

So the relay under my vacuum doesnt match the colors that the webpage chuch gave me. It should have GY/Y, T/Y, GY/R, and PK/LB but I have GY/R, RED/YELLOW, a bare wire and a pink wire. So I figure that the T/Y from the page is my R/Y and the GY/Y is the bare wire.

I guess the T/Y (Tan/Yellow) could look reddish with age.
There should not be a bare wire. Does it look like it overheated and burned the insulation off? If the GY/Y wire overheated and the Pink wire looks ok, the crimp on the GY/Y wire must have failed . Is the bare wire still connected to the relay plug or did it burn off?
If it goes to relay plug position 2, it is the GY/Y wire from the ignition switch. With the ignition in RUN, don't start the engine, it should have 12 volts on it. Check it and see.

Quote

So I connected the R/Y and GY/R. I heard a buzzing sound I i figure that to be the pump motor.

That sounds good.

Quote

So now I need to test on the PUMP MOTOR RELAY but I cant find it.

The relay you are looking at above is the pump motor relay.
The section of the ignition switch that powers the pump motor relay also powers the IVR in the instrument cluster. Do the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge work?
Fuse link E is unique to the pump motor relay and the HEGO heaters. It should have blown to protect the wires from overheating.

In the diagrams below:
Fuse Link E. At the LH fender apr0n near the starter relay. (but not connected to the starter relay)
Connector C299. LH front of engine compartment, Gray 4 pin connector

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #51 – May 05, 2013, 04:45:43 PM

Continued.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #52 – May 06, 2013, 02:29:21 AM

i hope this diagram as well can help, once upon a time i had to troubleshoot this and took some notes and put them on the drawing.
there are a lot of instructions on this page.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #53 – May 06, 2013, 11:23:19 AM

Thanks for all the help this post has given me. Thanks to the write up Chuck W posted I was able to determine my pump motor was running then I was able to find the pump itself was bad. Put the spare from my parts car on bleed the brakes and all is well. WHOOOO HOOOO!!!!!!

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #54 – May 07, 2013, 01:25:49 PM

Quote from: softtouch;414510

I guess the T/Y (Tan/Yellow) could look reddish with age.
There should not be a bare wire. Does it look like it overheated and burned the insulation off? If the GY/Y wire overheated and the Pink wire looks ok, the crimp on the GY/Y wire must have failed . Is the bare wire still connected to the relay plug or did it burn off?
If it goes to relay plug position 2, it is the GY/Y wire from the ignition switch. With the ignition in RUN, don't start the engine, it should have 12 volts on it. Check it and see.

it does look like it over heated. Some of the cover got burnt one to another wire it looks like. The wire is bare for about 2-3 inches. I can look onto the black tubing where the wires go and I can see the wire cover an inch down. It seems like it is still plugged in but my test light isnt turning on when I turn the car to RUN.
All of my gauges work fine.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #55 – May 07, 2013, 01:52:49 PM

I even placed the test light on the bare wire and it didnt light up.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #56 – May 07, 2013, 04:13:32 PM

When using your test light under the hood, always touch it to the battery plus terminal to make sure you have a good ground on the light.
Try to find a gray 4 wire connector at the "left hand dash panel near the windshield wiper motor".
It should have the GY/Y wire we are trying to trace. The other wires in the connector are W/LB, P/W and LG/Y.
Does the GY/Y wire looked burned here? Unplug the connector and check for voltage on the GY/Y (ignition in run).
From here you will have to follow the GY/Y wire to find a blue fuse link. You will have to open-up the cable harness.
The EVTM says the fuse link is near the starter relay. Not sure I believe that. Don't be surprised if the wire goes through the fire wall to the area of the fuse panel.
If the fuse link is blown, and I suspect it is, you will have to replace the fuse link, the damaged wire, the relay socket and the relay.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #57 – May 07, 2013, 05:37:39 PM

Okay thank you for your help. I'll go check that out now.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #58 – May 07, 2013, 06:13:20 PM

I see a grey connector that shares a mounting unit with the windshield wiper motor but it has 6 wires. I do see a grey one however and it is not burnt. I'll start testing on it and figuring out where it goes.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #59 – May 07, 2013, 06:28:41 PM

Make sure it is a gray with yellow stripe wire. Are the other wire colors I gave you in the connector?
Don't want you going off on a tangent.
I have conflicting info on the where the 4 wire connector is. I gave you the one that seemed most logical to me.
The other location is "Left hand front of the engine compartment".