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Topic: Still having an issue...UPDATE... (Read 8479 times) previous topic - next topic

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #15 –
Have you check the coil?

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #16 –
No, I haven't checked the coil, although it was replaced with a brand new one about 3 months ago. Not that it means anything. I'll check it, and Cassity, Thanks a lot. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and report the findings....or lack of findings. LOL.

For the next three days, my time belongs to the hospital. The only bad part of my job is the 12 hour shifts. The good part, 3 to 4 days off every week. Friday through Monday is my weekend. I hope to have answers Friday mid morning after codes are run.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #17 –
I'm thinking about that TFI.  The older guys I've worked with used to talk about them fritzing out once they heatsoak.  Do you have a new one?  Is it connected with a good thermal grease?

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #18 –
Heatsoak can cause a coil to freak as well, or anything electronic. Can only grasp for straws at this time. With any luck, it will throw a code.

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #19 –
Well, with the 12 hour shifts at work, Friday I'll know if there are any codes or not. The Distributors I tried (one of them is still in the car) were both brand new, both with new electronics. I may grab a new TFI and give it shot though, as well as swap out my coil, it's under warranty. AFTER I check the codes, that is.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #20 –
Cutting out completly or just missing? If it's completly next time it does it twist the key forward and backward and see if that affects it any.

Roger

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #21 –
Just missing, not cutting out completely. It did have a pop, like a backfire through the t-body. That would make me think timing, but holy . I've timed the bejeezus out of it. I tried at 10, 12, 14 degrees. 14 worked the best. I'm re-re-re-checking plug wires Friday along with running codes.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #22 –
compression  test?  I had an intake valve sticking that caused popping/backfiring like you are referring to.

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #23 –
That's on the list as well as a last resort. I'm hoping that with the good idle, and that it runs decent 1/4 of the time, it's not a valve. I'm thinking electronics of some kind because the popping is very rare, even when the missing/stumbling is happening.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #24 –
You mentioned that you doesn't have any EGR, true?
Because this sounds like that you have gunked up EGR system.
A throughly clean of the whole EGR system usually will correct these type of problems.

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #25 –
Vinnie,

Have you checked the MAF elements to see if they are dirty?

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #26 –
I'll be checking the MAF and all tomorrow. Codes before I do anything. If I have to, I'll pull the 24's and MAF and swap in a set of 19's and matching MAF and see if there's a difference.


As far as EGR plugged up....I'm doubting it as everything was clean and in order just a few weeks ago when we put the car back together.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #27 –
O.K., here we go....codes are as follows....

Engine running;13,33,44,94

Engine off;33,95

Breakdown the best I can...

13--RPM at idle out of range/high

33--Canister or EGR valve control system not operating/opening properly

44--Thermactor air system fault/right side

94--Thermactor air system fault; trans axle switch solenoid fault (converter clutch) secondary air injection system inop (left side)

95--fuel pump secondary circuit fault

The car has no EGR, or smog equipment., and has been equipped with Mass Air for quite some time. I'm not sure what to think about all of that.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #28 –
Vinnie, i wonder why your list of codes are worded differently than mine?  i pulled my list in my diy link from therangerstation.com and once i bounced the desriptions off the list in my emissions shop manual ,, and the ones i compared matched.
your list kinda looks like mine but its gotta make you wonder.

ok, it appears if what you are saying is 100%, then you actually have 2 codes because the others will always remain , you have code 13 and 95.
Test your fuel pres, it would tie into the low idle code as well with low fuel.
If you can, tape the fuel pres guage to the windshield and drive and watch the pres & the road, Turbocoupe50 once told me you dont want to see the fuel pres go lower than 20psi at high rpm.  Running around with lower R's, the fuel pres should be around 40 as you know.
I dont really understand why a vehicle that was never equipped with an ISC motor controller (cfi cars only) would dump a code 13? unless you use to be a cfi car?

also as you already know, pull the vac line off the fpr and see if its damp on the inside or smells of fuel.
Remember V8Demon's thread about the FPR he took apart? and all the manuf errors he found when the rubber diaphram is crimped into the housing?

13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) - ISC
33 ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
44 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
94 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection , Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
95 (O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits (R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
(M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

Still having an issue...UPDATE...

Reply #29 –
Well, I'm giving a chance to prove itself. I was RE-checking everything, and pulled the FPR vacuum line. Looking at it, it seemed fine. I couldn't see any cracks at all, then while I was re-installing it, there it was, a crack right even with the rubber boot on the end. I went to Autozone, bought new line and ends, installed the replacement vacuum line, and it SEEMS to have fixed the issue. As I told Jerry a bit ago, I'm not trusting it until it's good for a few days in a row.

Hopefully that'll do it though. I'll keep everybody posted on the issue for a few days until it either HAS or has Not cleared the problem.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..