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Topic: explorer/mountaineer heads.. (Read 1390 times) previous topic - next topic

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Ok i have a question. ive seen post but, lots of answers and guesses. my quiestion is..pull a part here in tacoma has a explorer and a mountaineer both with 5.0 motors with the good heads, i can get them really cheap..
1) will these bolt on to my 88 cougar motor w/o mods?

2) will i have to use the suv exhaust manifolds or can i still use my cougar manifolds?

3)my stock intake still should bolt up just fine?

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Reply #1 –
If they are 96-97 GT40 heads, they should fit without mods to exhaust.  If they are 1997.5-2001 GT40P heads (3 bars or lines at end of head, have "P" marked on them), the exhaust will have to be altered.  The problem is the angle of spark plugs, which interfere with non-P head exhaust manifolds and headers.  I believe some specific headers now exist which also will work.  The SUV "headers" aren't performance pieces...  Intakes will work regardless of GT40 or GT40P heads.

Make sense?

Daniel

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Reply #2 –
Actually, either will work. I have P heads on my Thunderbird, and use BBK unequal length headers with plug wires that have 90 degree boots. No issues.

Do you have any mods to your engine now? H.O cam, headers, different intake? The Explorer/Mountaineer intake and throttle body is also an excellent upgrade. Although for performance applications, I'd have to say to replace the stock valve springs in the GT-40 and GT40-P heads to aftermarket pieces.

If you don't have any mods to the engine, while you're doing a head swap, that's the perfect time to stab in an H.O cam. Then you'll really feel the difference in the engine. I wouldn't do anything larger than the stock style Mustang H.O cam with the GT-40/P heads.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Reply #3 –
Hi; thanks guys for the info..i can get the heads for 100.00 which is a score lol...might get intake also...

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Reply #4 –
Yep, grab the intake and throttle body. The t-body can be converted to Fox car use VERY easily. You will need a 65mm spacer though. The Explorer t-body spacer is useless.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Reply #5 –
Just remember that if you get the heads for $100 you'll have to spend some money on new springs, valve seals, and a clean up of the heads (hot tank perhaps) before you can run them. You could just slap them on, but while the heads are off you might as well clean them.

I believe that someone on here runs GT40Ps on a stock SO short block with a HO cam and he was fine. I think any cam with more duration might cause some piston to valve issues.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

explorer/mountaineer heads..

Reply #6 –
Just make sure that if you run GT40 heads, you make your life a little easier by running non-p heads and match it with the 96 or very early explorer intake, as it uses internal EGR (if you care about that sort of thing) and with the exception of the Intake air temp sensor, everything bolts back together straight up. You'll probably want to mount the IAT in the air cleaner box.  Also, when adding an HO cam, be sure you get an HO PCM, because the firing order of the engine changes at exactly THIS point, and the SO PCM won't play nice.

Associated swap parts list:
PCM (Mark VII, Mustang)
19# injectors (PCM will want bigger, and you'll need them for your new power level)
HO EGR spacer
Explorer TB gasket and EGR plate gasket
Some sort of Headers
H-pipe and Mark VII intermediate pipes (unless you fab bigger ones)
Dual Exhaust crossmember (to clear the above)

This is similar to my configuration, (I also run the Explorer short block) and unless you're an EEC geek, or you convert to Mass Air, this is probably as far as you go. The Speed Density PCM has an upper limit, and in my experience, this is where you start bumping into it.  My PCM gives me a little trouble with idling nicely.  Depending on the day it gets a little flaky.