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Topic: Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C (Read 946 times) previous topic - next topic

Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C

Hey Guys,

I'm wrapping up my 6 speed swap, and given the weather this time of year I'd really like to get the A/C wired back in. I'm just curious as to where in the body harness I need to start probing to find the A/C hot lead.

And in case you're concerned about WOT, I've got a magnetic switch wired up near the carb linkage to cut off the compressor clutch at X rpm. I was going to watch the pressure gauges while charging and use the ambient temp and system pressure to set the cut off. Ideally I'd hook up a high pressure switch inline, but hey...

Also if you guys have any other tips or tricks for running the A/C sans computer feel free to chime in.

Thanks
1987 Tbird 5.0 swap, go fast mods coming soon....

Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C

Reply #1
:popcorn:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:ford:87 Turbo Coupe through the floor sub frame connectors, 5.8 swap Ford racing heads Harland sharp 1.6 rockers BBK shorty swap headers 2 1/2 BBk X pipe magnaflow ler's. Megasquirt 2 with 36lbs injectors on hurricane intake with 4150 throttle body.Tremec TKO 600 Quicktime blowsheild spec stage 3 clutch. 3.73 gears and still not done

Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C

Reply #2
Update:

After making a bracket to attach to the carb base near the throttle linkage to hold a magnetic switch from mcmaster carr, and melting the switch in the hot engine bay...
I came upon the simple solution of shutting the a/c compressor off via direct reading of the engine rpms, because after all a cut off switch at the throttle bracket will not be entirely rpm dependent (derp).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-830449-1/

TAH dah! I have this little guy set to switch open at 2500 rpm at which time it breaks a relay connected to ground. I spliced into the tach wire I had coming in near the firewall, wired it all up and it works!

I bolted the whole shebang, relay and all to the bottom of my steering column using one of the 4 nuts holding the column in. I did have to paint over the clear switch cover as the led indicating it was on was exceedingly bright and illuminated my car like some sort of uncle ben's rice. But, for the most part relatively simple to get the a/c working properly. Though I do need to swap off the underdrive pulleys and put the original crank pulley on as it only really begins to get ice cool at 2000 rpms. This may seem a bit low for range, but I don't cruise above 1600 rpms on the highway unless I'm in 5th gear.

Not sure if it's sticky worthy, but if it's possible maybe one of the mods could add ":solved" to the title and sticky or tag with carb, carburetor, and a/c etc.
It seems pretty simple, but it took me a while to come up with a simple solution to solving.
1987 Tbird 5.0 swap, go fast mods coming soon....

Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C

Reply #3
I have no idea what the hell you are doing???????????????? Or trying to do with your ac unit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


If you have an engine that needs to drop out an AC unit at 2K better get a BIGGER ENGINE!!!:mullet::mullet:
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C

Reply #4
Tom, all due respect, it doesn't matter what size engine he has...

I'm just glad he figured out a way to solve his issue. Also, he has a 6 speed. If he has a really torquey engine, then it wouldn't matter if he needed to spin it over whatever magic RPM you deem is "normal"?

Diesels for example, make power lower...
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)