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Topic: pulling motor (Read 1551 times) previous topic - next topic

pulling motor

Reply #15
oh.. most importantly.. keep bandaides handy! or some clean paper towels and electrical tape lol someone's bound to bust a knuckle
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

pulling motor

Reply #16
Dont make a federal case out of pulling an engine. Especially a TC one. It is a piece of cake. And just me i would not cut the radiator support . That is a Hack job and totally not necessary. I would highly doubt Vinnie would  do it that way. He would loose a months worth of sleep just trying to polish the cut marks out and trying to hide them HA HA HA!!! Just making a joke Vinnie

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

pulling motor

Reply #17
it's funny how everyone knows vinnie's super attention to detail lol i wouldn't do it to my white car.. my black car on the other hand, certainly.. the whole front clip (firewall forward) is getting cut off anyway, so it's no loss what-so-ever, if it buckles or tweeks
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

pulling motor

Reply #18
Quote from: vinnietbird;384826
Tools. You'll need tools.otherwise, postpone the work until you get tools.

 
hahahahahah what a smartass :giggle:
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

pulling motor

Reply #19
Quote from: Shadow;384891
same as durangos, but they're bolted in securely enough.. i'm not going to attempt it without some serious thought, planning and a little added reassureance.. don't want to watch the lower support fold in half after i cut the top off LOL


 
wah wah wah is all i hear.. get off my nuts


Difference is...the Dudge has something called a full frame...that which our beloved FoxCatBird cars are in a definite lack thereof....my Ford truck (and the Chevy truck,AND the Caprice, for that matter) have/had removable radiator/core support. Of course, they also have full frames, and still, I wouldn't drive any of them with said core support not bolted...cutting a Tbird in that area, and definitely using it for a driving vehicle afterwards...probably not a good idea lol
'84 Mustang
'98 Explorer 5.0
'03 Focus, dropped a valve seat. yay. freakin' split port engines...
'06 Explorer EB 4.6

pulling motor

Reply #20
Sport your answer is correct and if you use a frame machine as often as i do you find this out quite fast. Monolithic design is a system that relies on every attachment and angle to be consistent. That is how it works. When designed with a full frame and chassis a vehicle is very forgiving. With it's absence one must be extremely careful with a SAWZALL OR FLAME WRENCH!!

It will amaze you how each and every rail and or attachment is extremely important to be functioning. You are 100% on you post. Thank You
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

pulling motor

Reply #21
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;384936
Difference is...the Dudge has something called a full frame...that which our beloved FoxCatBird cars are in a definite lack thereof....my Ford truck (and the Chevy truck,AND the Caprice, for that matter) have/had removable radiator/core support. Of course, they also have full frames, and still, I wouldn't drive any of them with said core support not bolted...cutting a Tbird in that area, and definitely using it for a driving vehicle afterwards...probably not a good idea lol

 
that's why it would have to be reinforced first.. when i start cutting the front clip off my black car, i'm going to put a plate on each side and weld in a crossbar (that will sit in front of the rad), say.. about 10-14" up from the lower.. or maybe even an X .. i'm basically just curious to see how it'd turn out.. the front clip is getting cut up to repair the white car, so i don't care what happens to it in the end lol it'll be a full tube chassis trailer queen
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

pulling motor

Reply #22
i'd loosen all the bellhousing bolts, drop the starter, motor mount bolts, and various wiring and hoses. loop a long rachet strap around the bottom of the bellhousing up to both ears on the firewall up by the cowl and pull the motor forward enough to get the mainshaft out of the clutch and take the motor straight up and out.