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Topic: Rear fuel lines (Read 928 times) previous topic - next topic

Rear fuel lines

Back to working on the t-bird...dropped the gas tank last night and the rear metal fuel lines are in pretty rough shape.  When remove one of the nylon lines I pulled the end right off the of metal lines, they were corroded bad. So now I just want to replace everything from the fuel filter to the tank.

I've read a few other posts that are telling me that these are not available as a replacement item and are going to have to be fabbed. Really??  Dang.  Please let me know if I maybe missed something.  I kind of need the new ones ASAP to keep moving ahead.  Thanks.
1988 T-Bird Sport Coupe--5.0 HO, MAF swap, 1-5/8" shorties, BBK/Flowmaster exhaust, Explorer intake, 70mm Edelbrock TB, T5, B&M short throw, Centerforce clutch and PP, disc brake TC rear w/ 3.55's, TC front brakes, '98 Cobra springs, DIY SFC's, other misc .  14.05 @ 98mph with launching too low and shifting too high.

Rear fuel lines

Reply #1 –
ive  got a rust  free fuel pump hanger pm if interested
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1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

Rear fuel lines

Reply #2 –
I've read the same thing Dan. Maybe you should add a small tubing bender to your collection of tools and start making some. I'm sure it would be cheaper for yourself that way plus you could make a few extra to sell.

Rear fuel lines

Reply #3 –
Hey Dan.  Like you've found out, your options are pretty limited for new fuel lines.  Your best bet IS going to be bending your own lines.  Go to your local NAPA and buy a however much galvanized steel brakeline you need and bend that to shape.  Cut the flare nuts off the brake line, but leave the flared ends on it.  For the pressure side, I'd recommend avoiding the use of nylon flexible tubing (like the car came with) and using fuel injection hose instead.  Use fuel injection hose clamps to secure the hose to the tubing behind the flared ends and you ha ve good, secure connections.  It would be a good idea to get some Plumber's silicone grease and use a little to lubricate the tubing ends to make it easier to slide the hose onto it.  For the return side, you can use regular fuel hose for the flexible sections.

Bending the tubing isn't that hard to do.  Just take your time doing it.
William

Rear fuel lines

Reply #4 –
Making new lines is not an issue but I'd like to replicate the stock style as much as possible.  If there is a better way though, I'll do that.  I'm not sure that I completely understand the fuel line orientation on the pressure side that you are describing.
1988 T-Bird Sport Coupe--5.0 HO, MAF swap, 1-5/8" shorties, BBK/Flowmaster exhaust, Explorer intake, 70mm Edelbrock TB, T5, B&M short throw, Centerforce clutch and PP, disc brake TC rear w/ 3.55's, TC front brakes, '98 Cobra springs, DIY SFC's, other misc .  14.05 @ 98mph with launching too low and shifting too high.

Rear fuel lines

Reply #5 –
Braided line is easy, get a compression fitting, attach to fitting coming out of fuel tank, run braided line to engine bay and connect.

Did my feed and return with -8 and -6. Was super easy. Just make sure you get all the fittings you need (the are what costs the most).
88 Turbocoupe: Coast High Performance 331 kit 28oz balance, Comp XE264HR14 cam, 58cc 185 afr heads, 1.7 roller rockers, Mass-Flo EFI (was POS to setup and their techline is a joke at best)
Full 1 5/8 primary equal length headers, 2 1/2 exhaust, Full manual reverse VB c4 and baked off clear coat "BECAUSE RACECAR"

Rear fuel lines

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Dan B.;380172
Making new lines is not an issue but I'd like to replicate the stock style as much as possible.  If there is a better way though, I'll do that.  I'm not sure that I completely understand the fuel line orientation on the pressure side that you are describing.

When you go to replace the pressure side of your fuel system, replace the metal lines with galvanized steel brake lines (after cutting the flare nuts off the brake lines) and replace the black, flexible nylon lines with fuel injection hose.  Use fuel injection clamps to secure the fuel injection hose to the new metal lines you install.
William