Turbo Problems

Topic: Turbo Problems (Read 5802 times) previous topic - next topic

Turbo Problems

Reply #15 – August 02, 2011, 09:27:11 PM

I now know why the turbo wouldn't boos. I took the turbo off again and the T3 gasket was missing it's bottom left corner. This is the second time in 6 months it has done this. Anyways, I'm waiting for the new gasket to get here, it has to come to TN from Ohio. Do you guys know any tricks to keep them from blowing out?

Turbo Problems

Reply #16 – August 02, 2011, 10:40:02 PM

Well without a DOUGHT that cam is SHOT. Better replace it. And do not use a slider. You seem to be leaning twords a RR cam. That is a big mistake but its your car. Why go through all the work for a cam that will make your car less performance orientated. I would also replace the springs and valve seals with the cam change just me . I am also going to say that i have never trusted a slider cam no matter who sets it up. Setting up the cam means nothing for its reliability. Like i stated before a slider cam will go flat and they did even when OILS were FULL OF ZYNC. The Good part about a slider cam was i made a FORTUNE on them and piston replacement and my rod modification to fix the 2.3. Good luck and change out that cam ITS SHOT.

Turbo Problems

Reply #17 – August 02, 2011, 10:46:11 PM

Quote from: Mischief;364537

I now know why the turbo wouldn't boos. I took the turbo off again and the T3 gasket was missing it's bottom left corner. This is the second time in 6 months it has done this. Anyways, I'm waiting for the new gasket to get here, it has to come to TN from Ohio. Do you guys know any tricks to keep them from blowing out?

Well that means either the manifold is not true or the turbo is not true. But their is a replacement gasket that can fix that. Get a gasket from a CAT dealer they are twice as thick and they are triple layered. I have used them with good results when the s were warped. Or have the turbo and manifold ground or machined FLAT. Good luck

Turbo Problems

Reply #18 – August 02, 2011, 10:56:26 PM

Well, if you're missing a big chunk of your turbo to manifold gasket, that right there could be your tick. Replace that before you decide if the cam is dead or not.
What gasket are you using? I use the ones that actually deform/compress when you install them to better seal. They're a multi-layer stainless one. Single use, but if you use the proper fasteners to hold the turbo to the manifold, they don't come loose, and thus only need to be replaced when your pull the turbo off the manifold.

The RR cam isn't really an upgrade in the performance sense, but more to the fact that it's a roller vs the slider, and today oil blends are nicer to it, as the rollers don't need the zinc that the slider cams to for lubrication. You can buy ZDDP additives should you decide to stay with a slider cam.

IF you need to pull the cam, as mentioned at the very least replace the valve seals (FelPro full-metal-jacketed ones) and look into the springs. Bo (of Boport) offers a nice drop in set with a higher pressure.

Fix the exhaust leak first, then look decide if you still have a noise.

Turbo Problems

Reply #19 – August 14, 2011, 05:40:04 PM

Sorry about taking so long to reply, the gasket was because the manifold had a small piece that at first glance looked like it was missing but in fact, the original factory gasket, from all appearances, has become one with the . I took the exhaust manifold and turbo to a machine shop and the turbo was fine. That had to shave quite a bit off of the manifold to get it smooth though, now I don't even run a gasket. They broke three studs and not having any decent auto parts stores, I resorted to using M10.2 bolts and a lockwasher. Worked beautifully. The bolts are much higher quality than any studs I can get being Hardened steel.

The tick was not actually the cam, but rather a rocker arm. A nut backed off and it was tapping against the valve cover. Every one locally swore it would be the cam as well, with the exception of my grandfather, who shocked me when he told me he used to have a SVO Mustang and made my day with his wellspring of knowledge.

Turbo Problems

Reply #20 – August 14, 2011, 05:44:15 PM

Oh, I was busy being rude and not saying thank you for your imput. :) I also forgot to ask what cam you would suggest as I do want to ditch the slider. I would rather do the RR swap as opposed to what is in there now. I can get a better cam at a later date, but if I were to shop for a cam, what would you guys suggest.

Before I make any choices, I'm really debating taking on this task...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190563963440&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_979wt_1165

Turbo Problems

Reply #21 – August 14, 2011, 07:22:14 PM

I have built endless 2.3 engines in my life and fail to envision a nut in the upper valve train other than the cam plate posi screws. Could you post a photo??????? Of this NUT. Unless the timing gear BOLT was loose. But i have never experienced that. Reason being is the bolt goes into the oil feed cavity of the cam and oil would have poured out like crazy. Their are no nuts under that VALVE cover or valve train that i know of.

Here is a photo of a 100% stock SVO head. As you can see their is no NUT under the valve cover anywhere. Please photo this nut i would be interested in seeing it. Unless your car has a SOLID CAM. If it has a solid lifter cam and the adjuster nut LOOSENED up that would cause the NOIZE. And in fact you did not mention if the car had a mechanical CAM. The STOCK SVO HAS HYDRAULICS. So as i listened to your video and if in fact your car has a solid cam and they loosened up that sounds exactly like a bad CAM. Not being on site its hard to tell what a noize IS. But what washiznitting the VALVE COVER. This is something i would like to see in a PHOTO.

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-61.jpg

Turbo Problems

Reply #22 – August 14, 2011, 08:15:17 PM

Well, I just got back inside from taking my car apart. A friend of my GF was the one who diagnosed the problem and I hadn't gotten around to fixing it yet. Now that I have taken off the Valve cover I see what you're saying. Her friend is an idiot, the cam is toast. For the time being I'm just going to replace it with a stock cam, I don't feel like messing with the head at this point and just need the car to get me to and from work for another two weeks when I get the other Turbo Coupe. Sorry for doubting you as I am here because you, after all, are more the expert than I. The second and fifth lobes are done. Not to far from flat actually. I haven't had much time from my jobs to do this myself, and now I wish I had. I'm still exploring this engine, one cover, bolt and part at a time. It's a lot different from the engines I have worked with in the past. Thanks again for your input... and being right. :)

Turbo Problems

Reply #23 – August 14, 2011, 09:54:52 PM

Not a problem at all. When i heard your VIDEO i knew exactly what happened . That cam as i posted is TOAST. I have heard that NOISE 500 times in my life and its very DISTINCT. I knew it was not an exhaust leak. When you have built endless 2.3 motors and i specialize in them you know the difference. Years ago i worked with ford on an internal engine failure on the 2.3. Dont ask me the details. Some do not believe i actually did this work with Ford years ago. It got me thrown off many a site and if you are interested i will PM you on the details. One tip of advice DO NOT INSTALL A SLIDER CAM. You must install a ROLLER. If cost is a factor the cheapest cam in roller configuration is the RR cam. The cam SUCKS performance wise but it is a good cheap replacement unit. Its smaller than the stock cam but it works OK for a DD. Thanks Tom

Turbo Problems

Reply #24 – August 14, 2011, 10:05:28 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;365140

I have built endless 2.3 engines in my life and fail to envision a nut in the upper valve train other than the cam plate posi screws. Could you post a photo??????? Of this NUT. Unless the timing gear BOLT was loose. But i have never experienced that. Reason being is the bolt goes into the oil feed cavity of the cam and oil would have poured out like crazy. Their are no nuts under that VALVE cover or valve train that i know of.

Here is a photo of a 100% stock SVO head. As you can see their is no NUT under the valve cover anywhere. Please photo this nut i would be interested in seeing it. Unless your car has a SOLID CAM. If it has a solid lifter cam and the adjuster nut LOOSENED up that would cause the NOIZE. And in fact you did not mention if the car had a mechanical CAM. The STOCK SVO HAS HYDRAULICS. So as i listened to your video and if in fact your car has a solid cam and they loosened up that sounds exactly like a bad CAM. Not being on site its hard to tell what a noize IS. But what washiznitting the VALVE COVER. This is something i would like to see in a PHOTO.

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-61.jpg

I would not take on this project without help from someone that is firmilliar with this kind of MOD. Its not something for the NOVICE thats for sure. The price is OK but you have to fabricate many parts and special pistons are a MUST.

Turbo Problems

Reply #25 – August 14, 2011, 11:31:11 PM

http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
The pistons. They're expensive, but it's a project in the long run. I will do a roller swap eventually but I'm not in a position where I have the time do really dig in to the head so a RR swap or any other roller swap is out of the question right now. I am picking up another 87 TC that has every option and it will be my daily driver. I have no problems playing with the "Folvo" despite being a novice with these engines because it will be a project/toy once I get the other TC. It may take a while, but the best things always do, the short stroke 412 I had in a 91 Camaro took us forever. I enjoy a challenge, I love working on my car when I have the time and I enjoy building things that are unique and stand out. The Lima block has won me over. I am in love with Fox bodies, I have always preferred Borg Warner transmission and have a pretty awesome foundation, so needless to say I'm excited.

More to my point, no time to pull the head and change the valves, so no roller swap. I'm throwing a stock Melling cam in it, it just has to hold out long enough for me to put a better cam in the other TC and get it road ready.

Turbo Problems

Reply #26 – August 14, 2011, 11:44:05 PM

You know you can use roller followers on a slider cam!!

Turbo Problems

Reply #27 – August 15, 2011, 07:27:19 AM

Quote from: Mischief;365157

http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
The pistons. They're expensive, but it's a project in the long run. I will do a roller swap eventually but I'm not in a position where I have the time do really dig in to the head so a RR swap or any other roller swap is out of the question right now. I am picking up another 87 TC that has every option and it will be my daily driver. I have no problems playing with the "Folvo" despite being a novice with these engines because it will be a project/toy once I get the other TC. It may take a while, but the best things always do, the short stroke 412 I had in a 91 Camaro took us forever. I enjoy a challenge, I love working on my car when I have the time and I enjoy building things that are unique and stand out. The Lima block has won me over. I am in love with Fox bodies, I have always preferred Borg Warner transmission and have a pretty awesome foundation, so needless to say I'm excited.

More to my point, no time to pull the head and change the valves, so no roller swap. I'm throwing a stock Melling cam in it, it just has to hold out long enough for me to put a better cam in the other TC and get it road ready.

To start with, you do not need to pull the head and change the valves to run a roller setup in your TC. It's no more difficult than putting a stock cam in it. For that matter, you can pickup a RR and roller followers cheaper than a new slider cam and followers.
As for custom pistons being a MUST HAVE for a Folvo swap, that's . If you're doing a complete rebuild, then yes, by all means purchase the Folvo swap pistons. If you have a good condition short block, you can either take the stock pistons out and have .080 milled off them to get the static compression ratio back down closer to 8.2:1 , or some people have even run them unmodified and had no troubles.

Turbo Problems

Reply #28 – August 15, 2011, 02:17:50 PM

Personally if you want to go the VOLVO head swap using old TC pistons is not wise. The whole idea is to make HP and to cut the domes of old pistons is something you can do i do it all the time on NEW PISTONS. But starting out fresh i would true up the BORES with a MIN cut and OS pistons for the VOLVO SWAP. Just me i like everything new and in speck. But i firmly believe a BO PORT head is a better way to go. Just me as usual i could be wrong.

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/006-7.jpg

Here is a set of pistons i machined down for a special application. Some might know why i did this if they are real SHARP and KNOW 2.3 Fords

Turbo Problems

Reply #29 – August 15, 2011, 03:48:33 PM

I would think machined down pistons would lower compression allowing you to safely run higher boost, but aside from that I'm clueless on the subject, I would, however, like to know why. Tom, you should write a book on Turbo Fords. I would buy it, lol. Def be a one up to a Haynes or Chiltons.

Also, what do you think about the 2.5 lima head? And I would still like to know your opinion on what the best upgrade cam would be for me. What would be your Preference Tom? And you as well Jangus.