2.3 n/a WILL now start July 19, 2011, 03:49:32 AM See post #13 for solution!'90 Mustang, and I've timed it over and over again, always getting the marks where they should be, but after turning it over by hand, the cam pointer is off by a tiny bit.Has spark, and fuel...last night when I was messing with it, it didn't have fuel pressure, but, it was empty. Then, it spun over really fast. Added about 4 gallons of gas, and now it cranks over in a very jerky manner, as if it's horribly out of time still. Before I got it, it was towed to a shop and they couldn't get it going.The belt looks like it's original, the writing on it is worn/faded, but it IS a Ford belt.I pulled codes, got a 10 and an 84.10 is Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test.84 is EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.Any ideas? I know it probably needs a brand new belt, and someone that knows what in the hell they're doing to reset the timing.I've never messed with a 2.3 before...other than taking parts off of my TC in '06 when I was parting it out. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #1 – July 19, 2011, 06:14:31 AM If you have fuel and spark, next check the VAM and hose. Make sure the hose is seated properly and doesn't have any holes in it, and make sure the vam door moves freely. When I got my XR-7 it acted similar, I couldn't get it to run, and then I found the hose coming off the VAM was off at the bottom, leaving a gap. I reseated it, and it fired right up.I would say do a compression test, but I know a 2.3 will start on 3 cylinders. I bought a 78 2.3 mustang not knowing it had a hole in the block and only 3 pistons, and it started... Ran like dog balls, but it still started...PS- I can't remember if the 90 mustang uses a VAM or a MAF, but either way, check it :) Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #2 – July 19, 2011, 11:43:40 AM Quote from: CoogarXR;363651PS- I can't remember if the 90 mustang uses a VAM or a MAF, but either way, check it :) Neither lol, but thanks for the tip all the same. :) Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #3 – July 19, 2011, 01:02:02 PM ok, I have a question...the articles I'm looking at say to have the rotor set at the 4 o'clock position....would that be while viewing it from the front of the car, or the driver's side?This is one of the places I'm using for reference, btw: http://www.stinger-performance.com/tech.html Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #4 – July 19, 2011, 01:49:33 PM Err, brain fart. LOL.I positioned the aux. pulley so the rotor now points at the number 1 plug tower..but still no change. Cranks hard, and slow, acts like it's still way out of time.Not sure what else there is to look at..edit:I put new batteries in my code puller, now I'm getting a 67 and 14 as well as the 84. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #5 – July 19, 2011, 09:29:56 PM The cam is easy to time, but even with a new belt they always seem to be off by half a tooth or so... The dist on the other hand is a bit more tricky, I just set the engine on TDC and rotate the dist till the rotor is at #1 tower on the cap(best to set it at that point with the belt loose)... It probably still won't be right but usually will start, if not move the dist a few degrees and try again, use a timing light to get it dialed in... A 10 when scanning codes in KOEO is the separator code between any current and stored faults... Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #6 – July 19, 2011, 10:48:19 PM Use the string method to time the cam and remember the engine is timed at 10* BTDC IGNITION TIMING. So the rotor should not be pointing directly at cyl ONE. Unless you put the Damper 10* before TDC then the rotor can be lined up with tower ONE. Then once started time with a light. You can also time the motor with a helper cranking it over and use a light. Hope this helps Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #7 – July 20, 2011, 01:37:38 AM Thinking about swapping in a 5.0Too bad all you 2.3 gurus are so far away...steak dinner for whoever can get this SOB to start..lol. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #8 – July 20, 2011, 06:55:36 AM DUDE you can do it. It is easy. It is not different than any other engine. Spark Compression Fuel Bingo starts. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #9 – July 20, 2011, 12:53:15 PM I've done all that.Just to verify, I pulled the #1 plug, rotated the crank until I KNEW the piston was @tdc, set distributor/rotor accordingly, lined up all the marks as needed, even threw in a few gallons of fresh gas.It has spark, as well.Not sure what else could be missing.I got a code 14 twice when I scanned.... "Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall."Would a bad TFI cause the symptoms I have?That's my next angle of attack. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #10 – July 20, 2011, 07:47:38 PM Verify your injectors are actually firing. Go buy a noid light that goes between the injector and wiring harness clip, and verify they're firing. It sounds like a TFI or PIP problem. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #11 – July 21, 2011, 01:44:07 AM Now that I think about it, the spark is really yellow...when I started the 'Bird up the other night, I tested it, it has a dark purple spark....I'm off Friday, I may throw a different tfi at it and see what happens. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #12 – July 21, 2011, 04:08:45 AM TFI was the culprit.Ground down a cheap socket to fit in the holes, borrowed the TFI from the Sport, and swapped it on, and after about 15 seconds of cranking, wouldn't ya know, the little engine that could not became the little engine that could at last.Actually seems to idle decent, but of course it needs a timing light put to it, and probably a little more adjustment to the belt, but overall, I'm as happy as Charlie Sheen in a pen 15e dealer's house!Now I know next time to look at the tfi right off, instead of whining and g and moaning for 3 days...heh. Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #13 – July 21, 2011, 03:55:04 PM Their you go good job on that little motor. Remember the TFI modules are not exactly the best in the world. Its life depends on 2 things The tune of the engine and HEAT. A remote mount is advisable and always make sure it never fires the coil in the air. It must see A system in good tune.CODE 14 Erratic PIP. Plain as day. Good job Quote Selected
2.3 n/a WILL now start Reply #14 – July 22, 2011, 01:21:27 AM Yeah, I had my suspicions and when Jangus posted, it lit the fuse in my mind..lolGonna clean it tomorrow and take some pics and post up here.. Quote Selected
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