mini starter is only a mini...

Topic: mini starter is only a mini... (Read 1920 times) previous topic - next topic

mini starter is only a mini...

July 13, 2011, 10:40:10 PM

in that it spins, but doesn't turn the engine over.

I'm pretty certain I changed the wiring as per the directions here, on coolcats, and a couple of other places I googled up.

I'll go back in a minute and double double check my work again, but...the starter came from a wrecked '97 3.8 Tbird at the PicknPull.

You can hear the bendix spin when the key is turned, but it seems like it's not engaging the flywheel.

Bad starter, or is it possible I have a wire in the wrong place?

Will report back in a few with more info..

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #1 – July 13, 2011, 10:46:55 PM

I think I may know what the problem is.

In the pic, I connected my new 12 volt key wire to the the lug that feeds into the windings, not the lug with the spade terminal...mine only has the spade, not a lug with a nut on it...going to go change it, and try again. Stay tuned..

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #2 – July 13, 2011, 10:51:03 PM

I have ordered 3 different starters from a ebay company called DB electrical. theyre brand new mini starters that are sopposed to crank over 13-1 compression motors. at 50 a peice... that is the best 50 ive ever spent wired up right the one i put on my 460 rolled that thing over easy.

Didja ever get it to work out for ya?

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #3 – July 14, 2011, 12:18:12 AM

Yeah, I had the small wire on the wrong terminal.

I changed that, and the engine still wouldn't start. Acted like it didn't have any spark. I took a closer look at the distributor and found one of the towers was broken, and the copper piece was down inside the cap. It had broken the rotor...thankfully my truck had the required parts to donate. New cap, rotor and gentleman, I'm happy to report that my 5.0 roared to life like a beast.
I only let it idle for about 15 seconds, and then I shut it off as I don't have the radiator back in yet.

There's still a ton to do, but I'm pretty happy it can move under it's own power again. I'll get pics in the morning.

If I can just keep my motivation going on, I'll have the interior back together soon.

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #4 – July 14, 2011, 04:26:30 AM

Awesome! Glad to hear you got it worked out.

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #5 – July 14, 2011, 07:56:36 AM

Congrats!!:D

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #6 – July 14, 2011, 08:22:59 AM

Is it quite a bit smaller than the old piece? I would like to have some more room around my headers and exhaust.

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #7 – July 14, 2011, 12:00:42 PM

Yeah Mike, it's a good deal smaller than the original, and also about half the weight.

I took mine off of a '96 or 97 3.8 Tbird...I also have a 3G that will go on soon from the same donor.

The downside...err, wait, there is no downside to a mini starter!

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #8 – July 14, 2011, 01:29:10 PM

Whites performance 1 (ebay store) has mini starters like this, I've bought 3 and had good luck with them, 49 dollars apiece. One is like 3 inches from my headers and been performing faithfully for 1 year with several long drives. Factory starter would get hot and not work till cooled off.

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #9 – July 14, 2011, 02:02:19 PM

I bought one from a salvage yard just to get the engine started, and when it goes bad, I'll get one of those that you guys have mentioned...I just have stock stang headers on for now, but will be going to some equal length shorty headers or something sometime...good to hear the ebay units can handle some heat.

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #10 – July 14, 2011, 07:42:32 PM

Permanent magnet starters are the new thing that works very well. We use Gear reduction starters where available like on fords and chevys as replacement units. Here is a tip for all FORD STARTERS or for any spade tip cranking leads. NEVER USE THEM. Either cut the spade off and solder the wire to the spade tip on the starter. Normally i use the hole in them and feed the bare end of the crank command lead into it. Then i solder it. Or if the starter has a nut and spade connected to it remove the nut and spade adapter and install a wire EYE to the lead and solder it to the wire. Then install it on the lug and reinstall the nut and washer. Its been a common problem with fords to have a NO START because of the heat from the exhaust manifold messing up the spade connector. Never use the spade connector on a FORD. I know all of you are going to jump on me about this issue but i have been repairing this problem connector for YEARS. So if the spade on the starter is perminent solder the wire to it. If it has a nut and spade adapter use the stud and nut. Just me passing on some GOOD INFO. BELIEVE IT OR NOT your choice. Thanks

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #11 – July 14, 2011, 09:28:01 PM

A solid contact connection is always better then a push on connector. I don't know why the even make them.... I always solder when I can

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #12 – July 15, 2011, 02:01:23 AM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;363452

cut the spade off and solder the wire to the spade tip on the starter.

When I need a new starter, this I will do..thanks for the tip...I just used a push on spade for the time being, that, and I'm not sure where my solder iron is....

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #13 – July 15, 2011, 04:56:04 PM

Good info, will do that when I put mine in.

mini starter is only a mini...

Reply #14 – July 15, 2011, 06:31:08 PM

2 87thunderbirdBlackJack: I have the same starter as you. They are cheap and perfect. They can easily start the engine even with the dead batery which isn't able to crank a small compact car engine with original starter.