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Topic: Mustang C/C Plates (Read 5533 times) previous topic - next topic

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #15
I can't verify the lowers until I get home from the office, and dig out my info from when we were making them.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #16
Thanks

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #17
Uppers - 10.375"
Lowers - 18.125"
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #18
Cool, thanks for the help.  I got the car in the air today and measured again and came up exactly .125" shorter on both than you did so I was probably just coming up a little short because I was at a weird angle.

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #19
The search function has not been working correctly since we swapped servers. Don't sweat it. Good luck, and let us know how much work it is and what's involved.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #20
Those measurements were from having both arms out of the car and on a bench, next to Mustang arms.  It WAS at least 11-12 years ago now, but I have the paper I wrote them down on. :p
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #21
Quote from: Haystack;354891
The search function has not been working correctly since we swapped servers. Don't sweat it. Good luck, and let us know how much work it is and what's involved.

Thank God lol.  The search function has been driving me crazy.  I'll definitely be dospoogeenting it along with everything else.
 
Quote from: Chuck W;354895
Those measurements were from having both arms out of the car and on a bench, next to Mustang arms.  It WAS at least 11-12 years ago now, but I have the paper I wrote them down on. :p

I had the arms out of my other car a few months ago and it never occurred to me to measure them since I was just going to get them from CHE.  I'll definitely be writing it down for safe keeping now though.

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #22
I am not saying that removing the old ones, welding up the holes, and drilling the new holes will be hard at all.  What I am getting at is laying out the new holes for the Mustang CC plates and keeping the geometry correct as they relate to the position of the LCA mount and spindle location.  I am not sure what or if there is a difference between the Birds and Mustangs but one would think that Ford would have used the same part in this area if the geometry would have allowed...then again.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #23
Quote from: Aerocoupe;355009
I am not saying that removing the old ones, welding up the holes, and drilling the new holes will be hard at all.  What I am getting at is laying out the new holes for the Mustang CC plates and keeping the geometry correct as they relate to the position of the LCA mount and spindle location.  I am not sure what or if there is a difference between the Birds and Mustangs but one would think that Ford would have used the same part in this area if the geometry would have allowed...then again.

Darren

For a typical setup I'd definitely agree with you.  However, I don't have a single piece of stock suspension on the front of my car.  The spindles are from a v8 fox stang, tubular 94-95 k, tubular fox control arms, and coilovers.  As oddball as this setup is I'm not even sure I could get the car in alignment with the MM plates with the stock  mounting holes.  The car is going to be slammed so I'll be needing even more adjustment.  When it's all said and done I don't think it will be any more work.  As far as keeping the geometry the same, all you'd have to do is set the adjustments on the plates so you would have plenty of room to move in the direction you needed, set them on the tower so the top of the strut would be in the factory location, square them up, and drill new holes. 

I'm definitely not suggesting that people that just need more adjustment because they lowered their car take this route because it's more than likely not worth the effort.  I should have mentioned I have a slightly unusual setup.  As in depth as this build is, a little fabricating for the C/C plates is the least of my concerns lol.

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #24
I do agree with you for a car that has the balljoint in the stock location.  However, my balljoint is about an inch closer to the body than stock and the car is lowered considerably and all of my suspension is from  Team Z for a Mustang.  I think this throws the factory differences out the window, but maybe not.  In my mind, these changes would somewhat cancel each other out in the camber department.  I could be wrong here, since this is far from my area of expertise, but I think that as long as I had the plates adjusted equally, squared to the suspension, and the upper mount in the same location as factory I would be set.  Just drill new holes and go.  Adjustments are the same regardless of what plates you use.  The only difference is how they mount.  I'm going to grab some strut mounts that a Mustang guy is trashing and see how difficult this will be.  If out looks like more trouble than the price difference I'll bite the bullet and get the MM's.

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #25
The difference in installing the Mustang strut mounts is as simple as elongating the front hole 1/2" or so.  Not much more to it.  The reason the TBird ones use the larger footprint is most likely due to the fact that the bushing OD is quite a bit larger than that of the Mustang.  IIRC, the orientation of the center of the strut bushing was the same between the two as referenced from the side of the mount with 2 studs, so geometry will not change.

There are 2 layouts for the Fox Mustang strut mounts, 79-89 and 90-93.  It's not an issue in regards to CC plates, as those are designed for all 79-93 cars, but if you're grabbing stock Mustang strut mounts, you need to use the earlier ones.  You can make the 90-93 ones work, but if the car is lowered, you'll be having to mod the adjustment slots on the strut towers quite a bit.  BTDT.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #26
I'm not planning to drive the car with the stock mustang mounts, I was just going to use them to see how much work the mustang plates would be.  Is the only difference in the 79-89 and 90-93 mounts the adjustment and the bolt holes are the same?

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #27
Like I said, the only "work" involved is elongating the front mounting hole on the strut tower rearward a bit.  That's it.

The early ones work better.  More "even" from side to side when one is turned 180* to match the TBird mounting.

No sense in futzing with it.  If you plan on using the Mustang CC plates, use them, it's an easy mod for install.  Just make sure when the driver side plate is flipped around to be used in a Tbird, it matches the pass side.  Sometimes the caster adjustment section of the plates are flip-flopped on the Mustang units if they manf them asymmetrical.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #28
Cool, sounds simple enough.

Mustang C/C Plates

Reply #29
Learn something new everyday.  I just went the easy route I guess.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp