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Topic: Correct me if I'm wrong... (Read 2259 times) previous topic - next topic

Correct me if I'm wrong...

...but you cannot use anything more aggressive than a stock HO cam with the SO bottom end and e7 heads, correct?  There is some dude posting comments on a youtube video of my car saying that I'm wrong.

I posted a link to coolcats writeup on it as well as a link to this forum and the guys response was that he's "talking from experience" and that you can't trust info from some "dumbass with a website".  lol...

I try to be helpful with people who ask questions about my car or how to do things but it seems there always has to be an "expert" out there.

Of course, I hope I'm not wrong.

here is a link to the video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlREUzJh9qI
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #1
I used an E303 cam and ported E-7 heads. Had that combo for quite some time. Flat top pistons and all. That doesn't mean it would work for everyone,but,it worked great for me.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #2
Quote from: vinnietbird;347251
I used an E303 cam and ported E-7 heads. Had that combo for quite some time. Flat top pistons and all. That doesn't mean it would work for everyone,but,it worked great for me.

 
How much lift does a E cam have?
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #3
A few people have reported using an E-303 Ford Racing cam with E7 heads. That requires mass air, an upgrade to the torque converter if you have an AOD, and serious piston-to-valve clearance checking because the E-cam is very, very close. But it can be done; Greg did that on one of his cars. And Vinnie did too.

I would suspect a B-303 cam would also work, although I haven't recalled seeing any data or info on that from others. The specs are close enough to an E-303 that it should work.

And of course there is the Trick-Flow head combo that has been proven to work.

The biggest issue is the flat-top pistons. Without reliefs you are limited to a sub-.500 lift cam. You can solve that issue by changing the pistons to ones with reliefs, or have your pistons fly-cut (if you're lucky). Or swap in a different motor with pistons that have reliefs. ;)

The best bang-for-the-buck cam swap continues to be the HO cam. Smooth idle, good power, good RPM range for an AOD, good fuel economy. And can be found rather cheaply most of the time.

I have the E-303 in the '86 (1992 Mustang 5.0 block) and it's lumpy, even with the newer torque converter. Probably need a higher stall. I like it though.
My buddy has the B-303 in his '84 Mustang 5-speed; it seems milder and has a better idle quality.

I haven't had any firsthand experience with any other cams. As always, it's been said that you can make anything work with anything so long as you have the piston-to-valve clearance.

As for his comments, he's entitled to them. At the time the information on my site was published, there was no hard data on other cam combos. Now there is, largely due to the info on this board. Therefore the info on my site is outdated slightly. However, I will still stand by the article as being 100% true because you MUST ALWAYS check piston-to-valve clearance on any cam, even if it's known to work, because every motor is different. "Joe said this" or "some guy told me" or "I know because I done it before!" is not hard data. I think he was looking for a fight anyway.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #4
Eric, as usual thanks for the great info.

Yeah the guy was being a tool and wanting to argue.  I just know from what I've read on your coolcats site and around here that it can be tricky using a more aggressive cam with the SO bottom end.  His comment about "some dumbass with a website" ticked me off a little.  I will trust someone with an entire website dedicated to these cars over some moron posting comments on a youtube video any day.  lol.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #5
I have found the more time I spend on the internet the more I dislike people in general ...lol
Fox-less at the moment

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #6
If you're going to tear into the engine to replace the cam why not just build a new engine? Then you can get the pistons, heads, and cam you want and get them to work together.

Someone posted a comment on a video of mine about how I was a liar because my car didn't sound like it had a cam. Just because a mild cam doesn't sound all choppy doesn't mean that a non stock cam isn't in the engine ;).
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #7
Quote from: thunderjet302;347265
If you're going to tear into the engine to replace the cam why not just build a new engine? Then you can get the pistons, heads, and cam you want and get them to work together..


 I replaced my cam for only $60  including all the gaskets,  a new engine would have been substantially more
 Thats one reason for doing just a cam . :)
Fox-less at the moment

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #8
Quote from: thunderjet302;347265
If you're going to tear into the engine to replace the cam why not just build a new engine? Then you can get the pistons, heads, and cam you want and get them to work together.

Someone posted a comment on a video of mine about how I was a liar because my car didn't sound like it had a cam. Just because a mild cam doesn't sound all choppy doesn't mean that a non stock cam isn't in the engine ;).


That's exactly how I feel about it.  I decided that there was nothing wrong with my high-mile stock bottom end for now so if it aint broke, don't fix it.  When it does start going south on me, I have a '91 HO block in the garage ready to be poked, stroked, and cammed out!  lol.

As far as youtube comments, I just tire of people and their negative or just blatantly wrong comments.  I don't want someone new to these cars checking out my video only to see some asshat's negative comments.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #9
In an auto-trans equipped car with stock, unported E7 heads there are better ways to make average power -- and go faster -- than to swap in a Ford letter cam.


Just because something can be done does not mean that it should be done.


IIRC you can delete unwanted comments from the videos you post, no?

Just do what I do -- turn the ability to leave comments off.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #10
Quote from: V8Demon;347329
In an auto-trans equipped car with stock, unported E7 heads there are better ways to make average power -- and go faster -- than to swap in a Ford letter cam.

.

 
Share please....... what about the stock HO cam?
Mike

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #11
Quote from: V8Demon;347329


IIRC you can delete unwanted comments from the videos you post, no?

Just do what I do -- turn the ability to leave comments off.


Yeah I may need to do that.  I've had that vid up for good while and this is the 1st time I've had negative comments or a "troll". For the most part everyone either says "nice car" or ask questions about what has been done.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #12
Quote from: V8Demon;347329
In an auto-trans equipped car with stock, unported E7 heads there are better ways to make average power -- and go faster -- than to swap in a Ford letter cam.


Just because something can be done does not mean that it should be done.


IIRC you can delete unwanted comments from the videos you post, no?

Just do what I do -- turn the ability to leave comments off.

 
Quote from: mcb82gt;347352
Share please....... what about the stock HO cam?

 
The stock HO cam is much better then the FRPP letter cams. Quite frankly the letter cams suck.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #13
Quote from: thunderjet302;347368
The stock HO cam is much better then the FRPP letter cams. Quite frankly the letter cams suck.

That's all in your point of view. The stock cam can't make any more power past 5000 rpms while the letter cams can. But for a street application the HO cam makes way more sense. Again, it's all in what you do with the vehicle.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Reply #14
Quote from: EricCoolCats;347371
That's all in your point of view. The stock cam can't make any more power past 5000 rpms while the letter cams can. But for a street application the HO cam makes way more sense. Again, it's all in what you do with the vehicle.

 
True. For a mostly street driven car the HO cam is much better. If you have the heads and intake to make power past 5000 rpms there are many more modern cams that will work much better than a FRPP letter cam.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.