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Topic: Ready to weld in subframe connectors. (Read 2028 times) previous topic - next topic

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Are there any ready to weld in subframe connectors for our cars? I've used the search function and found that Kenny Brown use to make them but they are out of business. Apparently Stinger makes some but I can't find them on their website. Does Stinger still make them or will some other company's connectors work without bending them straight?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #1 –
I think most people fabricate their own.  I believe its a straight shot from the front to the rear sub frames.  Some square tube and some gussets and you should be in business.
My car is a gravity hybrid.  The gasoline engine gets me up the hills, and gravity gets me down.

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #3 –
I believe Cougar5.0 had to beat the MM subframe connectors flat to get them to work....
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #4 –
If you use straight steel stock, you're gonna need to cut through your floorpans...

I think ChuckW or gumby could tell you more details about sourcing some though...

Subscribing, btw...sfc's are in the future for a coupla of cars... :D
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #5 –
Just use tubing...... 2X2 will require cutting the back floor right behind the front seat. You could probably get away with 1-1/2 x2 against the floor. 1x2 will definitely work without clearance issues. You need 5' per side, and should cost you about $50 or less depending on the size you use. I used 1/8" wall tubing, or thereabouts.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #6 –
Which car are we talking about?

The easiest is just the 1"x2" or 1-1/2"x2" (.120"/11ga/ 1/8" wall) straight tubing, with at least the front end angled, welded to the underside of the subframes.
The strongest would be something like what gumby did (and I'm going to do to the '80) is the 3"x2" through-the-floor type.

You'll be lacking pre-made seat supports, but you could do up something easily to accomidate that as well.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #7 –
I'm adding subframes to the Fox:D

So the tubing would need to be bent slightly in the front? I'm asking because I don't have a welder and can't weld so I'm going to have the connectors installed by a local shop. Would Mustang connectors work at all or is it a waste of time/money to even use them? If so where do I get the steel tubing?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #8 –
I have a set from Stinger performance laying around you could have for a few bucks plus shipping ( I grabbed one of the last sets from KB).


PM me if you want them...
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #9 –
I was asking which car in regards to clearance issues.  Your car isn't too low, so 1-1/2" x 2" stuff would be OK of you were just having them welded underneath.

By "bent" I meant angled at the front, or closed...instead of leaving a flat/square end to run into things. I actually used to angle the ones I did like this  (rear) /------/ (front).  The angle on the rear would allow for the SFC to carry onto the section of the rear subframe that dips down behind the torque box for the lower arm.

Straight tubing, no bends is what works.  5' long.

To source the material, you'll just need to check local sources.  EMJ Metals is in Chicago, and you may be able to get stuff there.  Not sure if they have drops, so you might need to buy a full length of tubing at least (20-24' long).  Worst case, you'll have some additonal material to sell off to someone else, or find a buddy to go in with you on a length.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #10 –
I have picked up metal tubing for my work in 12ft sections for trailers and stuff like that. I am sure if you call around to a couple of metal places, you could get a good price on it.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Chuck W;335655
I was asking which car in regards to clearance issues.  Your car isn't too low, so 1-1/2" x 2" stuff would be OK of you were just having them welded underneath.

By "bent" I meant angled at the front, or closed...instead of leaving a flat/square end to run into things. I actually used to angle the ones I did like this  (rear) /------/ (front).  The angle on the rear would allow for the SFC to carry onto the section of the rear subframe that dips down behind the torque box for the lower arm.

Straight tubing, no bends is what works.  5' long.

To source the material, you'll just need to check local sources.  EMJ Metals is in Chicago, and you may be able to get stuff there.  Not sure if they have drops, so you might need to buy a full length of tubing at least (20-24' long).  Worst case, you'll have some additonal material to sell off to someone else, or find a buddy to go in with you on a length.


Ok now I got ya.:D

Quote from: Haystack;335693
I have picked up metal tubing for my work in 12ft sections for trailers and stuff like that. I am sure if you call around to a couple of metal places, you could get a good price on it.


I'm waiting on a response from Paul. If it's a no go I'll try looking for a steel tubing supplier.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #12 –
You have a PM.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #13 –
Quote from: V8Demon;335796
You have a PM.


As do you;)
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Ready to weld in subframe connectors.

Reply #14 –
This is what I have on my '83:

http://www.globalwest.net/1980-88thunderbird.html

I also installed the seat support brackets but they have them listed under the Mustang parts:

http://www.globalwest.net/1979-93mustang.html

I added the Griggs Racing upper subframes a few years later and that really stiffened the car up.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp