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Topic: New Clicking Sound from Engine Update! (Read 5140 times) previous topic - next topic

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #45 –
I think you should save your money and take it to someone that knows what they're doing. Many of people have said that it could be an exhaust leak and most of them say it's most likely an ignation problem. There are some smart people on here, listen to them. Cars do weird things sometimes. I had a ranger with a 2.3L. It split the header causing an exhaust leak that sounded like the cam was wiped out. It only made the noise when I revved it. This has been going on for four months, I think you should throw in the towel and get someone that knows what they're doing. If it's an exhaust leak, any good exhaust shop can find it.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #46 –
You may be right. There are only a couple of decent shops around here, I went to one and they told me it sounded like the emissions tube, but my problem with that is if I remove the 3 or the 6 spark plug, the noise goes away. That doesn't make sense to me. Why would an exhaust tick go away when the third cyl. stops firing? But I guess I'll just have to take it somewhere else.

I know what the guys here have said, and I've done what they said, I've checked, rechecked, and checked the timing again, its perfect. I didn't understand what else the were talking about regarding the distributor.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #47 –
Sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold or leaking manifold gasket. Think about it, if the cylinder stops firing then the pressure in the manifold drops, there fore stopping the tick. You've pretty much rule out the pipe on the back of the heads, so take it to a shop and ask them to check your manifold.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #48 –
Have you swapped the plug wires around to see if it follows the plug wires?  What I mean by this is completely remove the #7 plug wire and see if you can use it for the #8 or #6 wire and then use that wire for the #7 wire.  Do this on the passenger side as well for the #3 wire.

Do you know how to get the motor to TDC and set the distributor up to be on the #1 wire position?  If not go here:

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,7114.0.html

And like everyone else said take it to an exhaust shop and have them check it out for you.  It should not cost you a dime for them to give it the once over.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #49 –
Yes. The motor was set to TDC to set everything up.

I recently was told by another member the EGR system is not active while car is in Park or Nuetral, which does now lend itself to say this problem may actually be a leak in the emissions tube on the back of the block. I will be taking it to a local exhaust shop when I get back, to see what they say. It seems funny that when unplugging the 6 and 3 cylinder it stops. I thought this might stand out to someone and mean something.

It does not follow the wires around, I recently bit the bullet and bought all the stuff for a complete tune-up, and did it, and the problem was still there. So this eliminated the possibility of spark knock, etc.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #50 –
It does not eliminate the possibility of spark knock. Wire, plugs, and cap & rotor have nothing to do with spark knock, where the timing is set and weather the timing advance is working right is what causes sprak knock. Heat, carbon build up, stopped up convertors, and vacuum leaks also cause spark knock. The EGR tube on the back of the cylinder heads always has pressure in it, it is connected directly to the exhaust ports. Didnt you say that the noise is coming from the driver side of the motor? All of the EGR  is on the passenger side. Im sorry if im being harsh but this has been going on so long, I dont think you're going to figure this out until you take it to a professional. Don't take it to a tune up shop, they most likely dont know what they're doing.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #51 –
Quote from: Bruce M;345429
Sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold or leaking manifold gasket. Think about it, if the cylinder stops firing then the pressure in the manifold drops, there fore stopping the tick. You've pretty much rule out the pipe on the back of the heads, so take it to a shop and ask them to check your manifold.

This is the kind of advice I was looking for. It would make sense, I mean the intake gasket was changed, I'm wondering maybe if something isn't right. Can an intake manifold leak be "fixed" without replacing the gasket again? Is there any type of goop that can be applied if I find the hole? I wasn't aware there was really that much pressure in there, but I think I know where the problem is. Why doesn't it do it in park or neutral though? Is something in regards to the engine pressure change when the car is in gear?

Can permanent damage be done to the motor is this wasn't fixed? Or is it just annoying? I don't really have the time of the resources to do this again, so it might have to stay the way it is for a little while. My brother is a certified ford mechanic, he helped me, I'm assuming he knows what he was doing, I know one of the gaskets seemed a little small, it might be leaking there.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #52 –
I thought you said you replaced the intake gaskets. If it's a vacuum leak it could be a pinched gasket or a vacuum line. The only way to fix a leaking gasket is to replace it. If you continue to drive it with an intake or vacuum leak, you could burn a piston or exhaust valve. If it has a cracked exhaust manifold or blown gasket it could burn the exhaust valve. A leaking exhaust manifold has nothing to do with your new intake gaskets. It is possible that a bad exhaust gasket or bad exhaust manifold would only leak in gear because there is a load on the motor. Revving it in park or neutral doesnt put a load on the motor, it just free revs.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #53 –
I did replace the intake gaskets, sorry I made a typo. I'm thinking it is a bad intake gasket.  So to ask my question correctly, can a leak in the intake gasket cause any serious problems?

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #54 –
Yup, If you continue to drive it with an intake or vacuum leak, you could burn a piston or exhaust valve. If it has a cracked exhaust manifold or blown gasket it could burn the exhaust valve.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #55 –
... I might be better of sping this god for saken car. :(

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #56 –
Dont do that! Most likely it's something ez, just being over locked. Have someone check your spark plugs. They'll be able to determined it has spark knock. Then you can rule that out. If it's an exhaust leak it will be ez to fix. Have you pulled any codes yet? Most part stores will do it for free. Cracked exhaust manifold are common so be sure you check them.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #57 –
I think it's the intake. There is a small "slit" which looks like the gasket did not fill in correctly. I'll post a picture. What I'll do is when I get home I'll run the car, spray water directly there, and see if it bubbles, etc.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #58 –
Quote from: jpc647;345709
I think it's the intake. There is a small "slit" which looks like the gasket did not fill in correctly. I'll post a picture. What I'll do is when I get home I'll run the car, spray water directly there, and see if it bubbles, etc.

 
It's not going to bubble, its going to suck it in. Use carb or brake cleaner. If the gasket is bad the motor will smooth out and rev a little higher when you spray it with carb cleaner. Does it run bad or does it just ping? If it's got a bad gasket it will most likely run like .
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #59 –
It runs and idles fine, as well as it always has. I thought I took a picture, but it must be at home. There is almost a small gap in the intake and the engine. I'll post pictures Friday, and I'll spray some carb cleaner in the area and see if it changes the way the car runs.  The car doesn't "ping" it's really like an exhaust tick. I tried recording the sound but it doesn't come out on my digital camera.