Imron paint

Topic: Imron paint (Read 1284 times) previous topic - next topic

Imron paint

May 16, 2010, 02:40:59 PM

Anybody here deal with it? Specifically; has anyone here had any experience getting Imron paint to shine again after it's become chalky and keeping it shiny?

The hood on my Cougar was sprayed with it (the only panel I might add) and I'm CONSTANTLY fighting to keep it shiny. I'm about to take the plunge and buy a couple of products that seem to work:

3M Perfect-It III Extra Cut Rubbing Compound and 3M Finesse-It II.
I plan on using a buffer with a foam pad for application. This paint is hard and extremely resistant to high temperatures. Things that would burn normal enamels and urethanes seem to do nothing to this paint. I can bring back the shine with normal waxes; but it's painstaking labor and lasts about a month, sometimes less depending on rainfall.

I plan on re-painting the entire car within the next couple of years, but I'd like to keep it looking good until that time comes.
Thanks in advance for any input

Imron paint

Reply #1 – May 16, 2010, 02:53:17 PM

After you do all of that, you might try this: www.zainostore.com as far as I know it's not designed for THAT paint specifically, in fact I've never heard of Imron paint, but it is a very durable wax/polish and looks better and better with each coat applied. If it's clearcoated get the Z3, if single stage get Z4 I think. it's the same bottle but the fluid is blue. They have a whole kit with like 8 different things applied in a specific order for the maximum gloss it can offer, but its about $110!!! Good stuff, but just the Z3/4 polish alone is eye-popping. Friend got me into it and I've been using it on the cougar religiously, everything wipes off so easily, dust, fingerprints, that sort of thing. Very tough finish.

Imron paint

Reply #2 – May 16, 2010, 02:56:20 PM

I tried Zaino on it back when this started. I need something that's gonna cut the paint first. FWIW -- I've had better luck with other stuff besides Zaino.

Imron paint

Reply #3 – May 16, 2010, 09:42:18 PM

My $.02 worth:

Imron was made by DuPont (don't know if they still make it) and, as you said, is very hard. I was told it was originally used for painting frames. I have never used it, personally. I always use DuPont's Chroma series and totally love it.

I do use both 3M products you mentioned. In fact, they were used on the 2011 Thundercats Calendar cover picture hood and the May picture car (that I painted with Chroma products). Anyway, if you are going to use the Extra Cut, then I would use a wool pad, not a foam pad. The foam pad would be fine for Finesse-it, but the Extra Cut should have a wool pad to work correctly. Also, there are two types of wool pads, white and pale yellow. The white is more "coarse" and would be best for Extra Cut.

Imron paint

Reply #4 – May 16, 2010, 09:51:22 PM

Imron never kept a good shine even 6 months after it was sprayed. (that I've seen)
I would have to agree with Mike, Maybe even wetsanding the chalking. but never doing that, I don't know if that stage would help.

Imron paint

Reply #5 – May 17, 2010, 12:28:51 AM

Thanks, Mike.

The hood actually kept a good shine for almost 5 years then fell to over one winter.....
I wheeled the hood out yesterday with some stuff I had laying around, nothing fancy, and the shine popped back. It's KEEPING it that's the issue. I'll hit the local place all the body guys use tomorrow for the pads and the 3m stuff.

BTW -- I brought the buffer back to life after I thought I killed it 2 years ago. Nice to not have to dole out $200 for a new one....Also very nice to not have to do that hood by hand.

Imron paint

Reply #6 – May 17, 2010, 04:57:07 PM

DuPont imron is what they use on fire engines. it's very durable paint.

Imron paint

Reply #7 – May 18, 2010, 11:44:14 AM

Imron is VERY durable paint, though the depth is not what you will find in most other urethanes. It can be wet sanded and buffed, and if you are having trouble with it chalking, this may be a very good option as it will remove the damaged paint exposing the better paint underneath. Before wet sanding however, you should check it with a pint thickness meter to see if there is enough paint to allow for sanding.

Beyond that, and good wax, applied regularly, should keep the paint from being damaged by sun/acid rain/oxidation/etc. Unfortunately, your paint seems to have suffered from neglect, and thus is already damaged. Unless you can remove the damage layer you will have to continually fight the continued oxidation.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill