Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #15 – February 09, 2010, 01:39:46 PM Sounds like the TFI to me. I don't bother with the testing, they almost always test good even if they are bad (at my local autozone anyway...).Just buy a new one, slap it on, and if that wasn't it, keep it as a spare. Because some day it WILL be it, hehe. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #16 – February 09, 2010, 02:17:12 PM Quote from: coogarxr;309718sounds like the tfi to me. I don't bother with the testing, they almost always test good even if they are bad (at my local autozone anyway...).Just buy a new one, slap it on, and if that wasn't it, keep it as a spare. Because some day it will be it, hehe.x2. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #17 – February 09, 2010, 07:00:51 PM and get the Motocraft one, I have seen timing isues with the cheap ones, wells BWD ect... Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #18 – February 09, 2010, 08:10:03 PM I have a motorcraft I keep as a spare, I will try it tomorrow. sorry for no updates havent been feeling well. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #19 – February 09, 2010, 09:33:42 PM Quote from: 88turbo;309710I will see about getting an buttstuffog meter today, and try this. am I going to be watching for the sweeps? is that how I decipher the codes?Or you could use a test light. Or you could buy the $80 code scanner that does the same thing as a paper clip, or you could read the links that people give you, or you could do your own search.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #20 – February 09, 2010, 11:09:27 PM Quote from: Haystack;309760Or you could use a test light. Or you could buy the $80 code scanner that does the same thing as a paper clip, or you could read the links that people give you, or you could do your own search.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.htmlthanks for your input :hick: Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #21 – February 09, 2010, 11:14:46 PM Quote from: Haystack;309760Or you could use a test light. Or you could buy the $80 code scanner that does the same thing as a paper clip, or you could read the links that people give you, or you could do your own search.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.htmlOr you can post link and info someone else has already mentioned and not say a thing helpful...thinkin' he gets the pulling codes already...EDIT: Does AutoHole or Oripoffs still do free code testing...? Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #22 – February 10, 2010, 12:52:37 AM Quote from: daminc;309701I use a cut piece of sheet metal the width if the connector slots to plug them together. It always stays in my tool chest in a separate little box. I have to use my buttstuffog meter to see the pulses, as the check light doesn't flash codes in my cougars. (it did in my 88 E-250 though). I really should get a light to do this one day, and make it easier to count.I just flip up the toggle switch next to the meter and don't even have to open the hood. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #23 – February 10, 2010, 04:10:05 AM Quote from: softtouch;309781I just flip up the toggle switch next to the meter and don't even have to open the hood.Is that there just for codes?, or is it a voltmeter to? Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #24 – February 10, 2010, 02:56:25 PM Quote from: Kitz Kat;309788Is that there just for codes?, or is it a voltmeter to?Voltmeter with the toggle off.Codes with the toggle on. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #25 – February 11, 2010, 11:40:26 PM Quote from: daminc;309701I use a cut piece of sheet metal the width if the connector slots to plug them together. It always stays in my tool chest in a separate little box. I have to use my buttstuffog meter to see the pulses, as the check light doesn't flash codes in my cougars. (it did in my 88 E-250 though). I really should get a light to do this one day, and make it easier to count.or a 12v buzzer from some old toy / appliance or something. that way you can focus on writting the codes instead of looking back and forth missing one blink second guessing yourself. mine came out of a microwave iirc. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #26 – February 12, 2010, 12:04:35 AM Quote from: 88turbo;309551to start off with, this is the new 87 TC. the car starts and runs fine but dies like its running out of fuel after about 4 blocks of driving and wont restart, if I let the car sit the cycle repeats.ok,, something is getting warm and then finally killing the eec's ability to supply ref grounds to produce signals on the tfi for spark. What you need to do first before getting too deep into this is to tell us this....**DURING THE FAULT***, do you still have spark delivery out of one of your plug wires-if yes,, its fuel related-if no,, its spark related.knowing this will help narrow down options. The spark must be nice and bluish white,, not of this orangish color.Next,, during the fault,, does fuel spray all over hell and creation when you purge it,,if not- lets get the pressure tested if yes- its a spark issue.however,,once upon a time i had intermittant orangish spark and also had fuel pres. My little red wire slip on boot was partially eaten by a mouse thus causng wierd problems with my starter relay. I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and inspected the injectors. not really sure where to go from here, I know I am going to be asked to pull codes, the car came with a code reader but I havent had a chance to get it figured out to pull codes. has anyone had a problem like this before? Yes, once- exactly like yours but cant remember what caused it. also can a bad O2 or bap sensor cause a problem like this? i would never put money on that ,, far fetched, at the least car would run rich.the FP never dies and keeps pressure so I am assuming that the problem is somewhere around the injectors or related parts. also, what tells the injectors to fire?the injector grounds are managed within the computer, the eec makes and breaks the grounds to each injector based on the position of the rotor fin thing a ma jig in the dizzy. thats why one fin is narrower to id cyl number 1. the eec manages the pulse width modulation based on tps position mainly pluse a few other inputs.to tell you the gods honest truth,, iirc, the time this happened to me was when i finally discovered what sensors (being unplugged) prevented the car from starting. Once i let the car cool down and i determined what sensors ***really**** did need to be hooked up for the car to start, I arrived at the ACT sensor.this was for the 3.8L btw but im sure its the same on the 5.0. Never tried on my 20th to test nor do i want to as to not trigger any issues with my cherry no codes eec now.my gut lends more towards the common things........starter relay getting hot would be the first swap, tps is not working right at a wide range of trottle positions, pip sensor is hosed, tfi is getting piss poor ground (haynes manual has good tips to test with key on engine off, or the fuel pump relay might be jacked. Not so much leaning hard to the ACT but its a try. the fuel pump also gets warm if its not submerged,, the fuel pump relay gets hot,, however what gets me is you say the pump continues to operate during the fault condition so all the fuel pump stuff is prob out the window.It is my understanding that during a hard fault, the eec's ability to manage the the ability to deliver fuel ect is still present however this is called limp mode and usually causes rich running conditions. If your running in limp mode, you may not know it until now. so.........check the ACT...like this..with a meter..or pull codes and lets see whatcha got.if you have a 3600ohm resistor, you could jumper that across the ECT and ACT to simulate a warm engine situation----------------------ACT sensor test ,,,feeds the computer (INLET AIR TEMP) or "air charge temp"Resistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)at 50degF=58K ohmsat 65degF=40K ohmsat 180degF=3.6K ohmsat 220degF=1.8K ohms=============================or,,,,,,,,,,iirc,, i might have arrived at the ECT was the problem, either way it was an odd ball not your typical fix kind of thing______________________________ECT sensor test feeds the computer ,, inlet water temp or (ENGINE COOLANT TEMP)Resistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)at 50degF=58K ohmsat 65degF=40K ohmsat 180degF=3.6K ohmsat 220degF=1.8K ohmsnext clean the end of the sensor with scotch brite ect and retestif high temps persist, replace coolant temp sensor and ECT as a matched set.if that does not work, start looking at your coolant system parts.----------------------as for test lights,, just unhook the bulb power near your fuse panel, or even your hood.run a wire from the test conn per below up to the bulb.now run codes like normal per the linky haystack put up.see diagram below for options but in effect, we all have onboard test lights if you just use them.ford solved this by employing option 3 (ie- paper clip haystack mentioned), you just sit in the drivers seat and watch the "check engine" light,,if it works. 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Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #27 – February 12, 2010, 06:50:27 AM Quote from: 88turbo;309551 the FP never dies and keeps pressure ?expand on this.you mean the engine stops but you still hear the pump running? Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #28 – February 12, 2010, 11:02:16 AM yes, the engine dies and when I try to restart the pump runs. I havent thought to listen for the pump when the engine dies but one would think that it wouldnt be with no way to trigger the relay. Quote Selected
Running Issues SOLVED!!! Reply #29 – February 12, 2010, 03:48:05 PM Quote from: jcassity;309993see diagram below for options but in effect, we all have onboard test lights if you just use them.ford solved this by employing option 3 (ie- paper clip haystack mentioned), you just sit in the drivers seat and watch the "check engine" light,,if it works.That doesn't work in my car. And the light does actually work. Quote Selected