quick help, no start prob. November 10, 2009, 07:51:50 PM My daughter called and said the cougar wont start. I go there and checked the battery voltage, 12.5V.I go to start it and it just cranks and cranks, no start. I dont hear the fuel pump priming but the fuel relay slightly clicks when you cycle the key.I pulled the coil wire from the coil and get a small spark when cranking, not sure how big the spark should be. Voltmeter read about 12V on both sides of the coil with the key on.Could it be the ignition switch or TFI module or is the fuel pump ped out? Is there a fuse in the panel that I need to check?I was beating the snot out of the tank and tried the inerta switch.I need some quick help here. Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #1 – November 10, 2009, 08:00:17 PM Do you hear the humm of the fuel pump when you turn on the key and it humms for about 2 sec?Did you do a search on here?have someone smack the bottom of the tank with a block of wood or a rubber hammer while you crank.If it starts,, the fuel pump motor itself (burshes) are binding and it needs replaced.Replace with adance auto pump for a 1990 3.8L super charged V6 fuel pump. That one is 90Lph vs your stock bosch 55-60Lph.If it still does not start, ..........................Locate the "inertia switch ie-reset switch"which could be right behind your license plate on the inside of the trunk or on the driver side behind all the covers. Its a littel box with a button and two red wires. Push the button back in if its out. If the button is not out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,Locate the fuel pump relay on the pass side behind all the covers up near the trunk hinge.Turn on key and listen for a click. If you hear a click but no fuel pump hummm,, bang the shiznit out of the tank and it might start. ie-bad pump.Tap on the relay while cranking the engine. If it still does not start,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,locate the tan light green wire.Tap into that wire with another wire. Ground out that wire to the vehicle.turn on your key..................Does the Fuel pump runn continuous? If no, replace relay.if you replace the relay wtih a known good one (green top or equivelant) and it still does not start, could be a bad eec.You can run with a bad eec if it starts with the tan/light green wire grounded all the time. The tan light green wire also appears up at your eec test connector near the driver strut tower. It is an empty 6 pin connection usually having a single wire connector right beside it.Did you search the site for any info? there are a lot of people who have posted about this stuff now and again and pics might be available as well.alot of what i have said is out of order but for the most part it will get you started.I copied this from jcassity somewhere Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #2 – November 11, 2009, 05:01:03 AM yeah,,, sounds like a pump.you have current to the pump obviously because the battery storage has enough juice to crank the motor.do this......at the relay....gator clip from the tan light green wire to frame ground.turn on key (pump should run continuous in this state)see if you have 12v on the red wire(you probably do).if you do, just measure on either side of the inertia switch to frame ground for 12v,,,,,,,,(you probably do have 12v).if so,,,,,its a pump.turn off key,,,wait for pump to stop (shold be 10sec +)remove tan / light green jumper wire. Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #3 – November 11, 2009, 07:47:47 AM Will do tonight, thank you.Is this usually how these pumps fail? Just out of nowhere without warning? Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #4 – November 11, 2009, 04:54:08 PM Quote from: jcassity;298405yeah,,, sounds like a pump.you have current to the pump obviously because the battery storage has enough juice to crank the motor.do this......at the relay....gator clip from the tan light green wire to frame ground.turn on key (pump should run continuous in this state)see if you have 12v on the red wire(you probably do).if you do, just measure on either side of the inertia switch to frame ground for 12v,,,,,,,,(you probably do have 12v).if so,,,,,its a pump.turn off key,,,wait for pump to stop (shold be 10sec +)remove tan / light green jumper wire.I jumpered the tan/gr wire=nothing, just relay clicking. Check with voltmeter and was 12v Read no voltage on the red wire key on or crankingYellow wire was 12v all time key on or offPink/bl wire was 12v briefly, then off. 12v if cranking.I couldnt get to the inertia plug to check voltage there.Whats the next move?? Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #5 – November 11, 2009, 05:16:54 PM Just because the relay clicks, doesn't mean it's good, could have burned contacts and still click... You need to verify the presence of 12v on the pink/black wire exiting from the fuel pump relay(this is when the tan/green wire is grounded)... If it's there you have either a bad pump, bad connection on the tank connector or maybe a bad ground for the pump(orange wire)... The ground is under the passenger seat and sometimes gets rust/corrosion causing a problem... If you can find the orange wire and check it's resistance to ground(should be near zero), that will verify it's integrity... If resistance is high, could also be the connector at the tank... Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #6 – November 11, 2009, 05:52:50 PM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;298441Just because the relay clicks, doesn't mean it's good, could have burned contacts and still click... You need to verify the presence of 12v on the pink/black wire exiting from the fuel pump relay(this is when the tan/green wire is grounded)...Its a new relay, it clicks just like the oem one didI have 12v at the pink/blk wire when grounding the tan/gr wire. Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #7 – November 11, 2009, 08:26:56 PM Guess Im ordering a Walbro 190lph, unless somebody speaks up? Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #8 – November 12, 2009, 02:01:25 AM sorry to reference you to the red wire,,its hard explain as to why getting 0 vdc was normal depening on exactly how long it took you to measure a reading.your results bug me on the pink / black wire. with the tan/light green wire bonded jumpered to chassis ground, the fuel pump relay should have stayed energized 100% of the time. You should not have had the momentary power followed by 0volts unless your connection to chassis ground was not really good or you didnt connect to an area that has little paint.im not kidding, in order to get the fuel pump running full time, the tan/lg wire needs a really good ground.without the relay staying energized full time , your spinning your wheels for troubleshooting purposes.what i do know is that you have consistent results with a properly working relay....yellow wire sent power to the pink/black which goes directly to the fuel pump.its really starting to look like a pump though, unless the pump ground is hosed like tom said.now if you can get that fp relay energized full time, you should be able to verify the pump is bad by beating the shiznit out of the tank until it kicks in. when if finally does, you will know that the pump brushes are prob worn and getting the little motor in a bind. it wants to pump but it cant ,,thats all.im not really sure on walboro pumps, never had one. The 3.8L super charged fp does more lph than stock and is pretty cheap to. its just the pump and misc kit only, no new sock was in my kit. also the mating of the sock is a little odd so maybe you should pull the tank and eyeball it first. Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #9 – November 12, 2009, 07:50:42 AM Quote from: jcassity;298494.your results bug me on the pink / black wire. with the tan/light green wire bonded jumpered to chassis ground, the fuel pump relay should have stayed energized 100% of the time. You should not have had the momentary power followed by 0volts unless your connection to chassis ground was not really good or you didnt connect to an area that has little paint..Sorry for the confusion, once I fiddled with the connections (not a great ground I guess), I got consistent 12 to the pink wire constant. No pumpy runny. Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #10 – November 12, 2009, 08:51:59 AM yep, its all about the pump now and/or connections to it. Quote Selected
quick help, no start prob. Reply #11 – November 30, 2009, 07:59:44 AM Just an update on the thread. New Walbro 190 pump in.... fired right up and runs great!Tank and sender looked like new, no creepy rust. Quote Selected
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