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Topic: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs (Read 2588 times) previous topic - next topic

wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

I did some research here and decided to upgrade the suspension on my '85 Tbird with springs, sway bars, spindles and rotors from an '88 turbo coupe.  Sounds simple, but, each step has provided an unexpected obstacle.  Right now, I'm regretting I attempted this at all because my car has been out of service for over a month now, but hopefully, when it's all over, I will be satisfied. 

I ultimately replaced those springs, sway bars, spindles and rotors--I even replaced the lower control arms with new ones from Ford Motorsport.  When the wheels went on, and I lowered the car back to Earth yesterday with great antition for a great ride to try it out...I discovered that my front wheels are pointing in two different directions: while one front tire is pointing practically straight ahead, the other is turning right, and they don't appear to be straight up-and-down (caster/camber--I don't know which) either. 

So, yet another f#)*#@%$ obstacle to overcome!!!  :mad:  :mad: Help me out guys, is it just an alignment I need or do I NOW need to purchase caster/camber plates, or something else to get this job done.
 
Thanks!

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #1
did you replace the tierod ends? if so take it to an allignment shop first

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #2
You need an alignment like BlackJack says. C/C plates are a good investment. Especially if you lowered the car. You can adjust the toe-in/out at the tie rods if it MUST be driven to the shop, i would suggest getting it towed. Your tires will thank you later. I speak from experience.
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #3
sounds familiar ;) standing 1 tire up perfectly strait and having it fall overcause the outer or inner tread it worn down to the cords ;)
[edit] welcome to the board [edit]

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #4
I did NOT replace the tie-rod ends, or the steering rack. I didn't do any "adjusting" of the tie-rod ends.  The only things that I did change that, I think, would have caused my problem is the springs (which lowered the car about 3/4" to one inch) and the spindles (which did...I dont know what).

It does seem that I need an aligment now...BUT do I HAVE to get c/c plates or is the alignment alone enough?

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. :grinno:

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #5
they would be a wise investment in the long run....  if your wheels are going like this now / /_____\ \  then yes you need cc plates

it may be the spindles that threw you off

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #6
The front tires are more like this // ____ ll; with that crazy left one leaning in at the top a little bit.

[edit] Thanks for the welcome! [edit]

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #7
heh more like this then //_______//  if they are both leaning imagine what drving it would fee like ;)

no prob, id like to see pics of this '85

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #8
Quote from: 87thunderbirdBlackJack
sounds familiar ;) standing 1 tire up perfectly strait and having it fall overcause the outer or inner tread it worn down to the cords ;)


lol. yesh, that's it.


jgonz727: no you shouldn't have to buy them to get an alignment. you won't know for sure until you get it aligned.
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #9
Quote
I even replaced the lower control arms with new ones from Ford Motorsport.
Stock 85-width arms, or later 3/4" wider arms?
I also remember there being some amount of "slack" when bolting my spindles back onto the strut... the spindle could flop in/out at least a degree or two. Maybe loosen it, let it flop "out", then retighten?
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #10
I ordered these from Racer Walsh: SVO3075_A ( These lower control arms for 1979-'93 Mustang/Capri/Fox vehicles have heavy duty rubber bushings with low friction ball joints. These lower arms dramatically improve impact harshness qualities of the vehicle and are recommended when heavy duty suspension components are added.) Two per kit (complete car). m 3075A

I believe they are the stock arms.  And I don't recall any "slack" when bolting my spindles back onto the strut, but I will check it out.  :eek:

Thanks.

Re: wheels r whacked after new A-arms & springs

Reply #11
Quote
And I don't recall any "slack" when bolting my spindles back onto the strut
Okay then, "wiggle room".  :D  The holes in the strut won't be exactly the same size as the bolts, so the spindle can shift a little bit. Maybe the lower arm's inner bolts aren't in the same place on the k-frame? If there's "wiggle room" in those holes too, the arm may sit farther out, taking the bottom of the wheel with it.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!