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Topic: Wierd Air Sound (Read 2505 times) previous topic - next topic

Wierd Air Sound

I just got an 83 T Bird and there is a wierd air noise that is louder when in park that is comming out from under the dash. When you put her in gear it is still there but not as loud. It is not a vacume leak the car runs great. Any suggestions as to what it is?

Dutch

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #1 –
It could still be a vacuum leak, is your 83 carbureted? When mine is running rich, and I pull a hose, the idle picks up and it runs better. Do all your vents and such work properly?

Could you at least describe the sound?
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...
 

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #2 –
4 common causes:
Vacuum pipes or parts for the heater controls.
Cruise control release valve at the brake pedal (if equipped).
Automatic parking brake release (if equipped).
Turbo boost gauge hose (but you don't have one).
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #3 –
Also...could be a bad brake booster. When that happens there is a constant hissing under the dash, and when apply brakes you can hear it get a little louder. Also the hissing would change depending on whether the car is in Park or Drive, as described.

You'll probably need to stick your head under the dash with the car running and in Park, and try to pinpoint the location of the hissing a little better. That way we can help troubleshoot with more certainty.

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #4 –
I also had a customer come in for a hissing noise from the dash. Turned out one of the rubber plugs on the firewall was pushed off and missing.
1988 Thunderbird Sport. Work in Progress
5.8L swap w/fitech efi, 4R70W swap w/quick 4 controller, 2003 GT rear diff, 5 Lug swap

Bought this car back as an old project car.

:burnout:

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #5 –
Quote from: 86caprirs;294579
I also had a customer come in for a hissing noise from the dash. Turned out one of the rubber plugs on the firewall was pushed off and missing.


But that was a "while driving" complaint wasn't it? My take is that Dutch is sitting at idle.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #6 –
mine does it only in 2nd and not at all in any other gear. Something I oughta look into, but not a big deal.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #7 –
[COLOR="darkorange"]4 common causes:
Vacuum pipes or parts for the heater controls.
Cruise control release valve at the brake pedal (if equipped).
Automatic parking brake release (if equipped).
Turbo boost gauge hose (but you don't have one).[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Black"][/COLOR] Ok here we go
Cruise control this has been diconnected
Automatic parking brake, Don't have that
Turbo boost gauge hose, Don't have that
Heat I don't have that as of yet replace the thermos stat yesturday due to the one in her wasn't opening and the new one isn't opening either it is a 160 degrees not under that one at all either.

Removed the Compleat A/C system and clutch fan all together, Installed an electric fan system with a manuel controll switch and the thermos stat still wont open.
So now the noise is still there and the heat don't work. We (my son and I) were all over this thing and still can't find where the wierd noise is comming from. Sitting idle or driving the noise is there.

This car is a 5.0 with an 8.8 rear and AOD.

I know there is a vacume leak under the T/B bottom gaskit but you can't hear that from inside the car or under the hood, it is the way she idles that we know of the T/B gasket leak (it speeds up when checking with starter fluid sprayed at the bottom of the T/B were it meets the intake.

While here does anyone have a front right hand turn signal lens? I know 1983 to 1986 will fit.

Thanks in advance,
Dutch

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #8 –
Are you running EFI, or Carbed? If your running EFI, don't even bother with a 160 stat. I just threw in a 192 on my 87. The old one was in pieces I dug out of the lower intake. And just because your heat isn't warm dosen't mean it isn't working. The heater vents can be computer controlled. Other people are fishing for more information, and have given you quite a bit considering what you posted.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #9 –
Well, the vents in an 83 are Vacuum controlled, except for the blend door, so is the upper radiator hose physically getting warm? Or are you just judging the temp by inside the car at the vents?? From the sound of it, it could still be a vac line/s from the HVAC vents.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #10 –
Take the hoses off the vacuum tee one at a time to find the one causing the noise. Let us know what you find.

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #11 –
The hose on the top gets ahrd and very very hot can't even hold onto it, it gets so hot!!! Go to remove the radiator cap and the antifreeze comes out wich tells me the thermos stat is not opening. I went to Car carft yesturday and got a 195 stat and going to put that one in today hoping the one I installed the other day was just a bad one. I have a Throttle Body fuel system and I know there is a vacum on the bottom gasket that needs my attention.

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #12 –
The hose on the top gets hard and very very hot can't even hold onto it, it gets so hot!!! Go to remove the radiator cap and the antifreeze comes out wich tells me the thermos stat is not opening. I checked the normal blown headgasket systems and ther is nothing in the oil but oil.  I went to Car carft yesturday and got a 195 stat and going to put that one in today hoping the one I installed the other day was just a bad one.

My fuel is a Throttle Body system with a leak on the bottom gasket that I know I have to address

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #13 –
make sure you put the spring twoards the block. If your worried about it opening, make sure you test it by throwing it in boiling water first.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Wierd Air Sound

Reply #14 –
Seems the thermos stat is opening because the heater hoses are getting hot too but still no heat, must be a vacume leak some place. Will the bottom gasket on the throtle body that is leaking cause the heater vacume not to work?