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Topic: '88 5.0 starting/running problems (Read 12992 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #105 –
As long as they look OK you can re-use em.  Remember to lube them up before you put them back on.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #106 –
What about this injector with the cracked hat and the chip off the top ring? Buy the cheap AutoHole replacement injector?

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #107 –
Wow, looks like I'm not the only one here chasing down one of those seemingly incurable problems.  Not to change the subject, but check on the back side of the throttlebody... you might find one of these.  I'm thinking it might be my problem too.

Fly on Thunderbird, Fly! Operation Buy Back My Tbird or one like it funding: $0

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #108 –
Heh.. I wish it was as easy as a switch.

One more annoying O-ring question: Pull the hats off the injectors to get the bottom O-rings off? Or will they go over the hats without a problem? One or two of these hats are loose.. but I don't want to go pulling them apart just yet. (until I hear from someone else about it)

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #109 –
let me know what's up with your car, i don't understand all of the abriviated parts that yall are mentioning but mine sat for a couple of years, ran like  (tranny wouldn't shift into high) my friend undid the throttle position plastic thing that tells the tranny to shift, ran fine for awhile then started bogging out. Now it's doing the same as what you are describing

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #110 –
Got the crankcase breather filter replaced.. $5.18 for a Purolator at Advanced/Discount. AutoHole doesn't even carry it, which I found odd.. but that's AutoHole for ya.

Couldn't get the proper O-rings. AutoHole didn't have 'em in the back, and only had the O-ring assortments in the "HELP!" section.. almost $3 per pack, and only 2 O-rings that looked to be the correct size in each pack. Sorry, I'd rather not pay ~$12 for 8 O-rings if I can avoid it. The guy at Advanced wouldn't even look in the back.. but I was too tired to push him on it. He puppiesed me off on their "HELP!" section without even a second thought. I guess I'll have to track down NAPA or something.. 'cause the injectors are getting their overnight paint thinner bath already.

Nothing more on the pump yet. Everything's pretty much on hold with that for a couple weeks, unless an unexpected source of $100 or so pops up. (so I can pick up a new filter at the same time)

Now that I have the fuel rail off for the injector cleaning, should I replace the FPR while it's still somewhat easy to get to? I think they were $18 at AutoHole. (plus a listing for an O-ring for that)

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #111 –
Here's one of the O-rings I did pick up, since they were only 29 cents a piece. I figured it wasn't a huge loss if they were unusable. The one on the right is one of the O-rings from the fuel rail.

O-well.

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #112 –
I'm putting in my 2 cents. I think you need to go back to how you set up the original idle. I would disconnect the IAC electrical connection, back off the throttle adjusting screw until it doesn't touch anything and the plate is fully closed. Turn in the screw 5 turns after it hits the arm on the plate, start the engine and it should fast idle. Turn the screw out and drop the idle to about 675. Shut off the motor and reconnect the IAC plug. the engine should start right up, if not then you need to clean your IAC valve. Take it off and clean it with carb cleaner. The TPS should be set seperately with a digital volt meter. Turn the ignition to ON but don't start the engine. The green wire is positive, black is negative (or common), make sure the meter is set for the right range. Loosen the 2 screws on the top and adjust until you get the right numbers, even if you have to elongate the holes a little. The TPS tells the EEC your fuel/air ratio so if it is not set right it may be sending a wacky signal to the EEC.
 

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #113 –
Well, I can't do anything of the sort right now.. the top of the engine is in several pieces.

- Took the upper intake off it to touch-up paint and clearcoat it.
- Took the injectors out to soak them in paint thinner. Did so for 2 days, then soaked them in gasoline for 2-3 hours or so.
- I'll probably replace the FPR while the rail is off.. when I can afford to buy the FPR, pump, and new filter for after the tank drain and drop.

Also, the engine acts the same way whether I use its IAC or the IAC I borrowed from my Lincoln's 5.0. The T-bird's IAC was already cleaned with carb cleaner some time ago.

I've set the TPS voltage several times now. I found my smaller round file and I'll be elongating the holes a little bit before I reassemble the manifold/spacer/TB.

I'm stuck waiting until I can afford one new/replacement 14# injector, because one of my current ones is broken in two spots. (the cap, and the ring just below the rail O-ring)

While I'm on that subject: Can anyone tell me if it's a bad idea to try and pull the caps off for changing the O-rings on the manifold side of the injectors? Should I be cutting off the old ones that soaked in the paint thinner for 2 days instead?

EDIT: Here's the damage to the injector:

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #114 –
Quote
Friend came over today to set the timing by hand/ear.. got his wrench on the bolt holding in the distributor, and proceeded to break the TFI module clean in half when it slipped.


HHAHA I did that a couple of months ago... cheap a$$ swival I have... live and learn right birdman..

Quote
I'm stuck waiting until I can afford one new/replacement 14# injector

Oh I just tossed 8 14# injectors in the trash last week too  :giggle:  someone around here should have 1 or 2 they can hook you up with .. ;)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #115 –
Got a hookup on the replacement 14#s.

Project's still on hold.. had to replace the exhaust that got ripped off the '86 weekend before last. Amazing what you can do with ~$70 worth of pipe and clamps.. but it ate up any possible profit from the yard sale.. which could've taken care of the fuel pump.

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #116 –
Yep, it's the return of the thread that refuses to die.

OK, I got six of the eight injectors back into the '88 today, but something's puzzling me.

I bought brand new O-rings for the manifold side of the injectors.. I figured out to just cut the old O-rings off and slip these on with that little plastic suppository-lookin' thing that came with the package. I also poured a little bit of 5w30 into a paint cap (since it called for oil to be put on the rings, and that was really all I had available) and dropped all the O-rings into the paint cap. Putting the O-rings on between the caps and the injectors was just about as easy/difficult as I guessed it would be, having to stretch them like that while slippery and all.. but now I pop the injectors into the manifold, and they do not hold in place at all. They just slip right out. Is this normal for right after installation? Will tightening down the fuel rail help hold them in place until the O-rings expand or whatever?

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #117 –
Id be carefull on that if they slip out real real easy.  the intake will expand when it warms up so maybe you buy out some slack that way.  Id say your o-rings are thinner since you had to force em on that much.  sounds like you really did stretch them. 

Perhaps you should get the orange colored orings, they are better quality.  I dont know how to technically guage oring theory or anything but its my guess they are too thin while installed.

if your ok with them,, then use some automotive silicon around the intake orings.  spray out the intake bung first with cleaner so your not mixing oil with sealant.

did you see if the same thing happens on the fuel rail end?

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #118 –
I reused the old O-rings on the rail side of the injectors. They were not showing any hardening or deterioration. I tried popping the rail off the injectors, but it just pulls the injectors out of the manifold.

Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems

Reply #119 –
did you get a chance to look at the screens?