Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #30 – April 16, 2005, 06:10:52 PM Got the TFI replaced. He tried to change timing, but the thing won't stay idling for long, now.. and it's running rich.. LOADS of gasoline smell. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #31 – April 16, 2005, 08:38:58 PM Should I look into possibly picking up another EEC for this? Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #32 – April 16, 2005, 11:16:40 PM Hi, I seem to be having a similar problem with my '85 T-Bird with a rebuilt V8 302 engine with headers, crane cam, the bearings are all new (10 over on crank), new hyp. pistons (9 to 1), (30 over on cyl walls), oil pump, heads had to be shaved a bit as right head was slightly warped, new valve job, with new rod guides and hyd. lifters.It's got the CFI on it, and it will start and I can keep it running if I keep throttling the gas, but will not go to an idle no matter how warm the engine gets ! I replaced the ACT sensor on the engine, as it was showing 2.7 volts with a cold engine, while the coolant sensor was showing 3.2, but to no effect. If I disconnect the ACT sensor, the engine will start and run at around 3000 rpm, with the occasional backfire before I shut it off. The way I have it running right now is with the ACT disconnected and the idle screw turned down to where it's idling at around 1200, but it's really rough running.So I don't know if it may be the same problem as you have , but I sure am hoping that if you find out what's wrong with yours I'll be able to cure mine !! Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #33 – April 17, 2005, 05:18:56 PM Aight, update time.Got a new TFI on it yesterday. Picked up a new cap/rotor and a coil today. Also gapped all the plugs, the gaps were all a little on the small side. Each plug has a small burn mark on the insulator, in a crescent shape.Yesterday, it would idle (~1000 RPM) when warm, but would cut out after a couple minutes. Today, it idles (~800 RPM) when warm and does not die.It only runs when the IAC is disconnected. (regardless of TPS voltage.. set voltage right, it still won't run.. won't even start with the IAC plugged in)I get no codes either with or without the IAC plugged in. All 11s.It still won't hold an idle when cold, and it's hard to rev it quickly. Stabbing the pedal makes it bog, but if you push the pedal smoothly when warm, it'll rev. However, with the new cap/rotor/coil/regap, when it does start it starts much easier.My friend is asking me if I could get another EEC on Ebay or something. Does anyone else think that the EEC might be messed up?The other option: Replace the IAC? It's over $50 at AutoHole.. not sure how much to snag one at a junkyard.EDIT: Detail I may have left out.. it's apparently running VERY rich.. like exhaust-makes-your-eyes-burn rich. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #34 – April 17, 2005, 08:42:36 PM Stalling with the IAC connected would indicate it is being pulled shut by voltage. I looked at my '88 EVTM and rather than a EEC prob, I suspect you may have a wiring harness prob... Measure from the red wire on the IAC to the black wire on the TPS to see if it has 12v... While your at it measure voltage on both connections on the IAC, with and without it connected(again to the black on TPS). No need to start the engine .... Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #35 – April 17, 2005, 08:58:25 PM Key on, engine off for all tests:12v to both lines with the IAC connected.12v to red line only with the IAC disconnected. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #36 – April 17, 2005, 09:14:51 PM Other notes on the car:- Shawn had me chasin' after the FPR as a possible problem, earlier.. but I see no evidence of gas in the vacuum line, for a possible rupture of the diaphragm.- No obvious vacuum leaks. I'd also say half the vacuum lines have been replaced by now, with the blue stuff.- Has new battery terminals, and the battery is pretty close to fully charged.- It's definitely blowing oil into the throttle body again. I'm considering ways to stop that. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #37 – April 17, 2005, 10:49:24 PM Those voltage readings would be correct... I'll take a voltage check on my blue '88 and see how the readings are with it running(hafta be tomrrow evening) and get back to you.... Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #38 – April 17, 2005, 10:53:22 PM Quote from: Bird351Key on, engine off for all tests: 12v to both lines with the IAC connected. 12v to red line only with the IAC disconnected. That 12 volts on both lines, is that with the engine running? Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #39 – April 17, 2005, 10:53:42 PM OK, thanks.This engine is succeeding in making me feel like a complete retard. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #40 – April 17, 2005, 10:54:13 PM Quote from: Thunder ChickenThat 12 volts on both lines, is that with the engine running?KOEO.. same as if I were pulling codes. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #41 – April 18, 2005, 05:57:36 AM Quote- Shawn had me chasin' after the FPR as a possible problem, earlier.. but I see no evidence of gas in the vacuum line, for a possible rupture of the diaphragm.Is there actual vacuum at the end of the line (while running)? Does the engine really puke if it's pulled (while running)? Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #42 – April 18, 2005, 09:54:03 AM I'll have to check that out after I have my coffee.Anything else I should be looking for in today's round of mental abuse, I mean troubleshooting? :pI guess the car is running well enough to drive me nuts.. even if it is a short drive. :pAnyway, I also need to work on finding a replacement for that little metal washer/grommet/whatever that helps hold the TV cable onto the throttle assembly. I have the clip that goes on top of it, but the other piece dropped down past the exhaust. I checked on the ground when I moved the car forward under its own power.. it's either buried in the river rock I park on, or it's stuck on some part of the body. I know I really shouldn't even try to drive it until that's attached properly. (my "drive" around the yard was little more than letting it move forward at just above idle) Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #43 – April 18, 2005, 03:47:54 PM OK, I warmed it up again today and got it to where it would idle again, (IAC still disconnected, only way it will run) and yanked the new vacuum line off the FPR. It lost a little RPM but did not die. It was definitely getting vacuum, because I could hear it pulling air when I pulled the line off.. and putting my thumb over the end of the line made the RPM kick back up to normal again. Quote Selected
Re: '88 5.0 starting/running problems Reply #44 – April 18, 2005, 08:17:18 PM OK got some readings engine running... The red wire on the IAC should still have 12-14v, the white/blue had 7.5v on cold start up(varies as it controlls the idle speed), and gradually increased to around 10v as speed dropped. Holding RPMs at approx 2000, the voltage drops to 6.5-7v.With the IAC disconnected, KOEO still gives code 11. KOER it gives codes 12,13(can't controll idle)& 16(unable to perform HEGO test). Quote Selected
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