TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Topic: TC rearend - "grinding" noise (Read 7056 times) previous topic - next topic

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #30 – September 09, 2009, 11:13:40 PM

I call..., didn't you replace your steering column and rack? If not, tie rod ends and/or rag joint in the steering shaft. Of course you would get a vibration in the steering wheel...

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #31 – September 10, 2009, 12:52:08 AM

We used new rubber bushings for where the uppers mount to the rearend (heard much harsher ride quality with polyurethane). All the front/rear suspension (except rear springs), brakes, steering, etc are new. We did not touch the steering beyond the rack and pump. Rundown below.

Steering:
Rebuilt Napa 15:1 steering rack
New ACDelco power steering pump
Turbo Coupe steering wheel
Turbo Coupe 16" rims on 225/60R16 tires

Suspension:
Front
New Moog tie rod ends
New Moog stabilizer bar end links
New polyurethane swaybar bushings
New Monroe strut mounts with polyurethane bushings
New Bilstein HD struts for sn95
Reused 10k mile control arms/ball joints
New Moog 8600 springs
New polyurethane spring isolators

Rear
New CHE Tubular control arms with polyurethane bushings
New Bilstein HD shocks for sn95 using Chuck's Mustang shock adapters
New Gabriel "quad shocks"/"steering dampeners"
Stock springs
New polyurethane spring isolators

Brakes:
1995 Mustang GT Master Cylinder
Stock brake booster
SSBC adjustable proportioning valve

Front
Rebuilt 1991 Lincoln Mark VII 73mm Piston calipers with steel bushings
New Napa "premium" ceramic brake pads
Reused 1988 Turbo Coupe spindles
New 11" vented rotors
New inner/outer wheel bearings
New Stainless steel brake lines

Rear
Rebuilt 1988 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe 45mm "Varga" calipers
New Napa organic brake pads
Surfaced 10" vented rotors
New soft brake lines
New 1991 Lincoln Mark VII rear parking brake cables with modification to lengthen

Rearend:
Stock driveshaft with <10k mile ujoints
8.8" TL 3.55 ratio rearend from a 1988 Turbo Coupe with new axle bearings (routine maintenance)

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #32 – September 10, 2009, 12:57:14 AM

There is no odd behavior in the steering other than it was much more difficult to turn after changing the stuff on the front end. The old rack/pinion's inner tie rods flopped around with no effort. It almost feels like I went from a 20:1 to 15:1 but unless someone replaced it with a standard ratio at some point, that shouldn't be the case. Seems to turn the same.

Car doesn't pull or shake (besides the stiff suspension). It occasionally feels like a downshift when coming to a stop is sloppy compared to before. This goes away right afterward though. Drivetrain shop doesn't think anything is the fault of any of it. This one point is what has me worried though.

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #33 – September 10, 2009, 09:48:01 PM

I know that the previous owner of my car replaced the rack at least twice, he also purchased it from NAPA, I am not sure what exactly was wrong though.

Quote

I was turning the steering wheel side to side a little bit this morning and a similar, if not identical, sound it coming from just moving the steering wheel back and worth like an inch.

Were you moving or sitting still in the driveway?

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #34 – September 11, 2009, 01:29:21 AM

That is indeed the rag joints. My other sound IS separate though. It's again sounding like its coming from the rear. The splines on the steering rack wasn't as pretty as the one we took off the car but it has worked well and stayed tight so far.

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #35 – September 11, 2009, 09:02:46 PM

SO it appears that I have/had multiple problems. First, one of the quad shocks in the rear did NOT have a nut on the chassis bolt. Interesting. Second, the steering shaft began making a noise when sitting still and moving the steering wheel back and forth. Lastly, yesterday the rear end started to make racket that is continuous in straight lines but appears to quiet down or go away while cornering. It is hard to describe as it's not a whine or grinding but somewhere in between the two. This is much worse than the sound that started this thread but also seems to now tie into the "popping" noise as they now seem to affect one another. Why would this start out of nowhere? Perhaps I should go ahead and replace the pinion bearings?

Why must so many things be going wrong at once?!

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #36 – September 12, 2009, 01:39:43 AM

What, you don't know? It's because your car has been working well for awhile, and it's now all rested up and ready to wreak havoc once again....

Also, what are your plans this weekend? Maybe we can meet up.

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #37 – September 12, 2009, 12:33:46 PM

Not much at all and girlfriend works all weekend. I may try to hit a junkyard to find some parking brake cable mounts. I know of no decent ones though - I normally try one up the street but they don't ever have much and NEVER have fox tbirds/cougars (it used to be some other company, then u pull it, then foster auto parts, and now something else).

I did not originally put friction modifier in the rearend as I forgot to buy it and we were finishing up the car at 9PM while I had to get home later that night. From what I'm hearing though, this would only cause noise during a turn, not when going straight. The rearend things are my fault but the steering shaft going out at the same time is just strange, along with my transmission leaking, yet one shop thinks its the cooling lines while another thinks its the pan gasket. The first shop replaced the pan gasket some months ago, along with every other seal besides the dipstick/cooling line orings. Supposedly there is no fresh oil though. Also my battery cable wires are falling out of their terminal mounts now. A few weeks ago the passenger side door started rattling inside and now the door lock doesn't want to pop up all the way. Perhaps the car just wants all the junk out of the trunk and back seat (floor jack, gt40 tubular intake, replacement car amplifier, other miscellaneous heavy parts and tools) and the kick panels/lower dash panels put back on.

The second shop basically did some diagnosis and found the steering shaft (it wasn't doing that prior until the day I brought it in...) making noise and eventually the shock nut being absent. Waste of money (time spend on diagnosis, along with the rearend that just started to make noise) but at least the car got washed also - it's been washed like 3 times the last 3 years. I prefer to leave the dust as it hides some of the current paint's flaws

What're you doing on your car recently/currently? I'd rather spend some time working on something BESIDES this car. It has been a c for the last 2 years. Need any grease? I finally bought my own grease gun :p

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #38 – September 12, 2009, 06:50:41 PM

Lol, I hear you on that one, sometimes you just gotta take a break :)

Don't you need TC specific mounts for the cables? I would say we could go to the yard in Tigard, but I'm pretty sure there are no TC's. Also, you'd have to drive the Bird!

Interesting info about the modifier, hadn't heard that.

First my transmission was leaking from the cooling lines, then some internal seal let go, then the pan gasket, and now it's the band adjustment nuts.

Yeah, my Pass.Side door lock is temperamental, D.S. is toast. I did just get replacement actuators for it though.

I sure hope all that stuff isn't rattling around in the back....and making noises....
You should be lucky that your paint has flaws that dirt can hide. I can't even post pics of my car it's so bad. :(

I do have those actuators to put in, and the truck needs head work.... :) :(
Heh, actually, I bought my own years ago.. :D

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #39 – September 12, 2009, 06:55:14 PM

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mustangtuning/differential-gears-install-02.jpg
http://www.performancepartsinc.com/images/ebracket.jpg

There are parts for rear-disc mustangs that bolt on to the swaybar bolt and do what they need to do - pull the cables away from the tires. That's what I need to find and tear off (not THAT hard, just have to get to a yard).

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #40 – September 12, 2009, 07:15:15 PM

So yeah, the sound is there driving straight but goes away completely when turning either left or right. It doesn't go away if I just swerve back and forth on a road. I'm still new to this and not having any luck researching it as all I find are people with problems when turning but not going straight.

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #41 – September 12, 2009, 07:20:32 PM

Are you sure you can't get those from NAPA for a dollar and change?

http://www.supplierlist.com/photo_images/145357/Fixing_Clamp_with_Rubber.jpg

Couldn't you just use one like this? With or without the rubber, and some have different length mounting tabs.

Gosh that sure sounds like some sort of bearing...

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #42 – September 12, 2009, 07:32:22 PM

Pinion bearing I'm guessing - I've no clue how to even replace that. We had hard enough of a time getting the axle bearings out as they seemed like they'd be easy (since we were already in there). As far as I know, it isn't something that someone without the right tools at home can do. I don't have a garage to store stuff in so I try not to collect more than I need.

Those rubber mounts won't work as the cable isn't that long. It only makes it halfway to the control arm.

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #43 – September 13, 2009, 12:52:41 AM

I added some friction modifier just for the hell of it, along with more gear oil. I figure if it's low, it'll fix it. If it's not, it has to be opened up anyways so more fluid shouldn't harm anything.

Well, the sound's still there. I can hear it with the rear up and tires off. The sound's vibrating out of the drivers side axle housing (hard to pinpoint at the axle bearing or the differential itself). I can hardly hear it on the passenger side. While the sound was continuous growl earlier, now it's making a repetitive sound as if the axle/axle bearings have an issue. The sound is not coming from around the calipers or ujoints.

I do have another issue that has come up on top of all else. My rear brakes were no longer able to lockup the rear wheels so I was having to use the parking brake to get the transmission back into park. There are no leaks at any of the 3 rear soft lines, the junction, or up front at the master cylinder/proportioning valve. I bled the brakes again and all's well once more. Where could the fluid be escaping to if I do indeed have a leak? I pulled vacuum and the drivers side goes down without the bleeder screw even cracked while the passenger side holds vacuum. There is no sign of a single drip/leak there. This is beginning to get extremely irritating.

I did get the trunk/back seat cleaned out and the rear sits better now.

TC rearend - "grinding" noise

Reply #44 – September 13, 2009, 02:45:49 AM

Could the brake lines be spongy? I have heard that old rubber lines will flex.