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Topic: Lowering springs.... again (Read 2786 times) previous topic - next topic

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #15 –
I uses springs from a standard Mustang,not a convertible.I like the way the car rides,and They have been great.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #16 –
The rear springs took me about 15 minutes to change.The fronts took longer,but not that long.As I stated before,I changed the springs,a-frames,ball joints and strut mounts.That all took about 3 or 4 hours total with a couple of breaks in between.No big deal really.Just to do the springs shouldn't take more than a couple of hours at the most.Remember,align the front end afterwards.The tires sit differently after the car is lowered.It was a week before I could get an alignment and it wore the outer edges of my "like new" front tires.I couldn't care less now that I have new rolling stock,but,at the time I was pretty peeved.Good luck.We're here if you need us.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #17 –
1986Elan- I wish I could tell you more about the handling characteristics. But the previous owner had just installed the KYB's before I bought the car. So I cant give any useful before and after info. I can say with them the car has a smooth ride and the handling seems fine for what we use it for. But keep in mind, I live 2 miles from work so this is a daily driver. I looked under the car just now and they are the KYB silver. I think that's the middle of the road. I think white is standard and the yellow are adjustable. Like I said, they came with the car. I hope this helps some what, just wish I had a better comparison for you.

Vinnie- The frontend was just rebuilt, so hopefully the spring swap wont be too bad. As in no rusted bolts and busted knuckles. But we'll see. Everyone knows how a minor project goes. I once tried to replace a little bit of rotted siding on our bay window. Well, after we pulled the siding away we realized there was a bit more work to be done. $2000.00 later the siding looks great. AARGH! Water damage, hopefully this goes a bit more smoothly. As for alignment issues, thanks for the heads up. I didnt even think of that. The suspension geometry will change! See, thats why ya cant put a price on experince. Have I said before that this is a great forum? Thanks again Vinnie

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #18 –
I think I got the same springs as Vinnie. My car dropped about 2" in the back..... and the front I won't know until the motor goes back in.

My front springs took about an hr to install. just compressed them to get them seated and jacked the arm up to bolt the strut in.

back took a few min. like Vinnie said. just dropped the rear, seated the springs, and jacked it back up to bolt the arms on.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Lowering springs.... again

Reply #19 –
I would keep the sport springs in the rear and just do the mach-1 springs up front and see how the stance comes out. I'd bet it would give the proper rake. I don't like the typical reverse rake T-Birds seem to have...
Raleigh, NC.

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #20 –
Harley, I know what ya mean. Thats the last thing I want, the dreaded reverse stance. So we'll see how it turns out. I can get a few different types of SN95 springs, so maybe I'll play with them to find the best combo. I'm trying not to change the car too much. I didnt buy it from the original owner, but it had been in the family since new. And it was very well taken care of. So, I'm hesitant to change it too much. So far I have added dual exhaust and a K&N air filter. Just rying to take it easy on the mod's for an original car. As for the springs, I may try a few combo's to see what works.

Thanks again for everyone's input

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #21 –
The rear is probably the tiniest bit higher than the front naturally,meaning with no air in the shocks.

I didn't have a spring compressor handy,so,I installed the a=frames and then the struts (at the top),slid the spring behind the strut onto the a-frame and carefully used the floor jack to seat it.No issues.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Lowering springs.... again

Reply #22 –
Thats the way Ive always done mine Vinn, floor jack and pry bar if needed.  You just have to be careful.
Mike