Skip to main content
Topic: (*#$!! (Read 4511 times) previous topic - next topic

(*#$!!

Reply #15
If you can find a small (possibly carbide or titanium) bit, drill on slow speed and see if it will cut the ez out. If it does, drill all the way through ez out and stud. Then get a small torch and heat the area at the broken varmit. Once it gets hot, (don't overdo it) the stud should turn out.

A word of advice to all, anytime you are doing assembly work on your engines, always chase threaded passages with the proper taps to ensure clean threads. This should virtually eliminate the chances of this type of problems. It also aids in the achievement of proper torque of fasteners.

Good luck and let us know!

(*#$!!

Reply #16
already try to heat the head a bit wit a plumbing torch
i guess is the upper one ??
if is the down one try to make a  bolted in the manifold to retain the valve cover

 bolt

(*#$!!

Reply #17
The welding idea sounds like it'd work, the problem is I dont have a welder, or any ready access to one.  I guess I'm going to have to see if the machine shop can handle it, and if not, take it to some sort of laser place that will cut it out.

Ghetto fix - Does anybody know what kind of tools I'd need to just drill/tap a new hole a couple spaces away?

EDIT: I didn't even know they MADE steel heads :o.  This is a cast GT40 set

(*#$!!

Reply #18
Hmm. Quite the Pickle.  The easy out should be brittle, so maybe you can crack it out with a cheap punch.  Once its out.  I would just use a bit that will consume the threads and the stuck bolt.  Get a sharp brand new one.  Once the hole is hogged out.  Pop a helicoil in it or tap the next size up bolt. 

Can you cut a slot in it with a dremmel? Then you could try to turn it out with a flat blade.  I have had good success with that in the past.

Just some ideas.

(*#$!!

Reply #19
Tried busting the easy-out...the part that broke off is too small to get a solid purchase on, and drills dont even make a dent.  The dremel slot was actually the first thing i tried, but this sucker is lodged in there nice and tight. made no progress but to break a couple screwdrivers (!!) and eventually strip the groove.

 

(*#$!!

Reply #20
The only thing I could suggest is if you are good with a cutting torch you could attach some heavy pieces of s steel around the area then try to melt and blow out the bolt. The s would act as a heat sink so you don't over heat the head itself. Even if you only got some of it out it might give you enough to drill the rest and retap the hole.

(*#$!!

Reply #21
You need to take the drill off and clamp the head down and use a drill press and possible a diamond bit.

This reminds me of the time I had to drill out two lug nuts.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

(*#$!!

Reply #22
Any suggestions on how to level the head out?  Also, home depot is garbage, where do I pick a diamond bit up from?

(*#$!!

Reply #23
as said, your going to be hard pressed to find anything that puts a dent in anything at or beyond the density of an easy out.

while you are on this mission, get that set of bits i mentioned earlier,, "Grabits".

http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/MAIN.htm

I still think you simply need to have someone show up with a little wire welder, tac weld a stud and call it good.

your technically screwed

(*#$!!

Reply #24
I really wouldn't worry about getting the head ridiculously level. Even if the thread isn't 100% straight, its just a valve cover bolt. There will be a gasket, and a the vavle cover. As long as the thread is repaired, it really should matter too much. I would get some wood and just "shim" it untill its close with a level.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

(*#$!!

Reply #25
All of the tips in the link are too weak for this application.

If I wanted to tap a new hole in the head, hypothetically...how might I go about that?  I know, I'm filled with questions.  I'm new at this.

(*#$!!

Reply #26
Quote from: Grumbles
Besides, the whole engine is outside the car. I can just drag the sucker down there and have em fix it.

You can't just remove the head and bring it to the shop? Seems that would be the easiest thing to do with the engine out of the car. Removing a head is a piece of cake right now.

From what you're saying has happened already, I wouldn't trust anyone but the shop to fix it right, right now, the first time, with the proper method. Vinnie has the right idea.

(*#$!!

Reply #27
Yeah I settled on letting the professionals handle it.  I'm just collecting ideas in the odd event that the professionals tell me I'm boned.

(*#$!!

Reply #28
Quote from: Grumbles;267683
I figured maybe there was some crud in the hole, so I just kept spinning it down in there....

what were you thinking?
:nutkick:
:birdsmily:   Objects In Mirror Appear to be Loosing  :birdsmily:

(*#$!!

Reply #29
Quote from: Jim_Miller;268696
what were you thinking?
:nutkick:


Helpful.