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re-shooting a panel

i got a front fender in excellent shape for my cougar.  no rust and fitment is perfect.  but my car is black and the fender is grey.  can I lightly sand off the clear coat and shoot it with urethane base coat and clear coat?  the fender has the original factory paint.  not sure what ford was using back then and if it will react with the urethane.  thanks

re-shooting a panel

Reply #1 –
400- 600 wet sand, if you hit steel just prime it. should be fine.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

re-shooting a panel

Reply #2 –
thanks.  if i should hit bare metal,  what type of primer should i use?    how much should the primer overlap the surrounding paint?  also wet sand the primer area with 400- 600?

re-shooting a panel

Reply #3 –
If your gonna use urethane paint you need urethane primer. If not you'll have problems. Also I would recommend self etching primer on bare metal then most like a top coat of your reg primer before paint but check the label to find out that brand's way. If your gonna primer might as well just hit the whole fender. And I use 400 between coats of primer and then 600 before paint. And yes wet sand the primer area before paint I always soak my paper 30min to insure its nice and soft.
Hope that helps
Stuckman

P.s if you shot it right the first time you would be eating it and wouldn't have to reshoot it! LOL
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

re-shooting a panel

Reply #4 –
Careful, etch primers don't react well with some paints. an epoxy would be a safer bet. lacquer spray can primer can also have bad reactions too.
You should also use what the paint mfg. recommends as far as sealing or priming.
You also just need to prime any bare metal. if it's small, you could just use a small roller to prime the spot and sand it out flat. saves a lot of gun cleanup
Some of the best painters have problems from time to time. ;)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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re-shooting a panel

Reply #5 –
ipsd -  maybe 'reshoot' was the wrong terminology on my part.  the last time the panel was 'shot' was at the factory.

one more question- wet sanding / compound

Reply #6 –
hello-  i did the base coat and clear.  came out pretty good- if i do say so.    no runs.  but ever so slight orange peel in one portion of the clear.  can i use rubbing compound or 1500+ grit wet sand paper on the clear?  is rubbing compound a thing of the past only used on old school laquer paint jobs?

re-shooting a panel

Reply #7 –
Wet sand it with 2000, and then buff it. use a polishing compound and a then a machine glaze
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

re-shooting a panel

Reply #8 –
thanks for all the advice.    this group of people and this site rocks!

re-shooting a panel

Reply #9 –
Hi.  my painting confidence is boosted since i successfully accomplished the fender.  another question on shooting another panel:    On my hood and roof, in some spots, the clear coat is sun damaged.  is it worth it to carefully sand off the existing clear from the whole panel and just shoot with new clear then wet sand and buff?  or am i better off preparing the surface then hitting it with brand new color and clear?  it is solid black and the existing base coat doesn't  appear to be peeling or cracking.

re-shooting a panel

Reply #10 –
you will need to reshoot the base too once the paper hits it. make sure you sand all the flaking clear off
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

re-shooting a panel

Reply #11 –
I just noticed this thread for the first time... I've learned from working at a body shop that black always matches black... its the only color that does.  So if you're able to successfully paint that fender then, with some buffing, your fender should match your car.

re-shooting a panel

Reply #12 –
Daminc-  what happens if i get a run or a bee lands in my base coat?  that didn't happen when i did the fender.  but i know murphy is going to show up when i do the roof and/or hood.  I figured if and when it happens I would carefully sand it out and then clear (?).  but you mentioned in your last post that 'once the paper hits the basecoat'  i would need to shoot new base coat.    Thats how i interpreted it.

re-shooting a panel

Reply #13 –
if you get a run you need to sand it out and hit that area again with base, but you don't need to sand the entire panel, just where you problem is and shoot the base and either blend it in or redo the panel. Usually when you sand base it gets lighter in color and dull looking compared to a non sanded area.
Where are you painting this? in a garage?
the window where bugs will get in the base is very short. A few, you can just pick out with tweezers. but if you have that many bugs to worry about, then mabe you shouldn't be spraying it there. ;)
Honestly, water in the air lines is usually more of a problem
Are you making a spray booth in your garage?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

re-shooting a panel

Reply #14 –
Quote from: daminc;269612
if you get a run you need to sand it out and hit that area again with base, but you don't need to sand the entire panel, just where you problem is and shoot the base and either blend it in or redo the panel. Usually when you sand base it gets lighter in color and dull looking compared to a non sanded area.
Where are you painting this? in a garage?
the window where bugs will get in the base is very short. A few, you can just pick out with tweezers. but if you have that many bugs to worry about, then mabe you shouldn't be spraying it there. ;)
Honestly, water in the air lines is usually more of a problem
Are you making a spray booth in your garage?


yes.  i'm painting in a garage.  while i'm paintig i have to leave the door open.    thats why i was concerned about the possibility of having a bug land in it.    i used a cheap inline filter last time.  the kind that come like 3 or 4 in a package.  is that sufficient?  or did i get lucky?