alernator wiring car wont hold charge

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alernator wiring car wont hold charge

February 16, 2009, 01:03:31 PM

the alternator and battery checked out good
when i went to jump the car one time the wiring comming off the alternator popped open and started smoking.
i can get the car to start and run but whan the jumper cables are taken off the car dies shortly after when it looses the charge.
is there a way to rewire or hardwire the alternator in so i can get a charge. i know there are more than 2 posts on the back of the alternator i was wondering if some other posts can be used instead?
im no electrical expert at all and was just wondering you guys input.
thanks,
dan

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #1 – February 16, 2009, 02:42:49 PM

Did the alternator test good after you let the smoke out of the wiring, or before? Sounds like you connected the booster cables backward.

Which wire burned?

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #2 – February 16, 2009, 03:53:28 PM

Which alternator do you have?

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #3 – February 16, 2009, 08:07:56 PM

g1 and i could have switched the wires when i had the alternator out to get it tested but it still wouldnt hold a charge before that. car would die after a min or so

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #4 – February 16, 2009, 11:09:21 PM

From the 86 EVTM for 2.3L Turbo with an ammeter:

Your alternator should have two wires on it.
1. A black/orange wire with a ring connector attached to the "B" terminal on the alt. with a nut. This wire should be hot at all times.

2. An orange/light blue wire with a push-on connector on the "F" terminal of the alt.

No you cannot substitute terminals on the back of the alternator. You must use the correct ones.

The gold colored box you mentioned in your other thread is the voltage regulator. It should have three wires.

1. A yellow/white wire on the "A" terminal. Hot at all times.

2. A orange/light blue wire on the "F" terminal. This is the other end of the wire on the "F" terminal of the alternator. The regulator pulses this wire to regulate the field current in the alternator.

3. A light green/red wire on the "S" terminal. Hot with the ignition in start and run. This wire turns on the regulator and the regulator turns on the alternator.

Sounds like your wire colors don't match what's above because it has been rewired.

I believe you are "not holding a charge" because the alternator is not being "turned on" to charge the battery.

Do you have a volt meter?
Which wire burned up?

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #5 – February 16, 2009, 11:42:27 PM

the wires are spliced in i know that much and yes i have a volt meter. will it just be easier to get those wires new/used and do it the right way or can i buy the wire and do it myself? what gauge will i need?

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #6 – February 17, 2009, 01:02:38 AM

The color of the wires doesn't matter. They just have to go to the right places.

How about telling us which terminals on the alternator and voltage regulator have wires on them and which one burned up.

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #7 – February 17, 2009, 01:42:26 PM

Maybe this will help. See where the two wires on the alternator go through connector C436.
This is a three position brown connector. Is it possible this went bad and they hardwired the
alt. in and this is the splice you see?
Is it possible the burned wire is one of the fuse links?
Gonna need some detailed feedback from you to troubleshoot this.
The unused connector position on the regulator should be labeled "I".

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #8 – February 17, 2009, 04:34:40 PM

let me get to the barn and get some pics. its been awhile since i closely looked at the wires. but i dont remeber seeing the brown connector

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #9 – February 17, 2009, 06:46:43 PM

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #10 – February 17, 2009, 06:47:26 PM

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #11 – February 17, 2009, 06:51:44 PM

2 white wires comming off the alternator and 5 comming off the voltage regulator

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #12 – February 17, 2009, 11:58:24 PM

Looks like there is a green fuse link spliced to the end of the black taped white wire. This is probably fuse link A. The other end of this fuse link should be spliced with yellow ammeter shunt wire and a bunch of other stuff.

The positive battery cable is black. Hope this didn't screw you up when you did your jumpering.

Can't see the regulator.

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #13 – February 18, 2009, 01:14:49 AM

wow yeah no i saw that the blue cable is the pos. idk if i should go ahead and just try and get wiring out of the junk yard or try and fix this up, looks like a real mess

alernator wiring car wont hold charge

Reply #14 – February 18, 2009, 03:39:35 PM

Quote from: croga001;257427

should go ahead and just try and get wiring out of the junk yard or try and fix this up, looks like a real mess

I recommend trying to fix what you have before straighting out the wiring.
Finding the correct wiring in a junk yard will be pretty tough. I think only the 85 and 86 turbo have the external voltage regulator and the ammeter.

The black tape wire on the alternator looks like it is not attached but is touching the S terminal. This is not good. This is a hot wire direct to the battery through two fuse links. If it has been flopping around touching stuff it probably has blown one or both of the fuse links.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the black tape wire on the alt and pull it up were it's easy to get at and not touching anything.
3. Put the negative battery cable back on.
4. Measure the battery voltage with your volt meter.
5. Measure voltage between the negative battery post and the alternator wire you pulled up.

6. If you have battery voltage on the alternator wire: Disconnect the negative battery cable and put the alternator wire on the B terminal. The one with the red ring around it and a nut on it.
Reconnect the battery cable.

7. If you have no voltage on the alternator wire: Try stretching the fuse links. If the wire inside is blown you can stretch the insulation. There are two green fuse links. One is on the start relay where the battery cable is attached. The other is spliced to the other end of the alternator wire you have disconnected.
I think this is where you will find your problem.

Of course if your battery is totaly discharged you will have to do something about that. A discharged battery can freeze by the way.