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Topic: Digging the coug out of the weeds. (Read 1253 times) previous topic - next topic

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Foreword: Sorry bout the long post, just started typing and then realized what I've created :D

Hello, I'm new here, I'm about to undergo a renewal of my 94 XR7 with the 3.8L. I currently have a 06 F-150 and I'm getting sick of the payments. So I'm digging the coug out of the weeds.

Now the reason it was put there in the first place was me being a naive young person who thought I was the greatest person to ever touch a wrench, I was 17 at the time working for a diesel shop. It all started when the water pump started to leak, I figured I'd do it myself after all it's just a water pump, I had done hundreds of them. If my memory serves me correct it ended up being a lot more work than I expected, having to pull the distributor and front cover not only to get to the water pump but because the front cover was leaking. One of the biggest mistakes I think I made was using kensol to clean the surfaces and not taking and precautions to keep it from getting into the oil and failing to change the oil after contaminating it.

Now, when I got ready to fire the engine after replacing the water pump. I couldn't get it timed correctly because I was unaware of the electronic advance plug that needs to be removed prior to timing. I however thought it was timed correctly, and being at my work 15 miles from home I decided to drive it home that night. It wasn't running right and I knew it a block away from work, however I kept going. When sitting at the railroad tracks the oil pressure light came on, it was an instant aw ___ moment. I was hoping it was strictly due to timing so I had my dads friend who has been an auto mechanic for over 20 years and keeps up with the technology come check it out. He got the timing set right. I might have been ok, had I changed the oil. The next day after putting about 20 miles on it, when I was getting off the interstate on the way back home, when I let off the accelerator it knocked. It would then do it every time I let off the gas. But no noise, lack of power etc under acceleration. I immediately parked it due to my believe that the wrist pins were(are) shot.
 

So now, I have 7 years of experience although all in heavy machinery. My skills are much much better after college, etc etc. I'm going back to my parents in a couple weeks to haul the coug up here and start in on it.

Am I overlooking any other possible causes other than internal damage?

Is there any difference on the transmission between a 3.8 and a 4.6? As I'm thinking of getting a crate engine, possibly a 4.6, then getting a computer and harness off another car.

I'm not really concerned about gas mileage due to the fact that I've adjusted to getting 12 mpg with my truck.
 However I ask, what would you recommend?

I'm not getting rid of my truck until at least March. Therefore, I'm planning on getting the engine issue resolved, going through the trans, changing rear axle oil, u-joint, basically go through everything as this has been sitting in the weeds for 7 years and I'm planning on making it my daily driver.

 I have a guy who owes me some work who is an awesome painter and he will be painting it for me, basically the only thing that I'm not going to completely restore is the interior and that will be done in due time.

I will keep you all posted, and thanks in advance to any advice.

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #1
Welcome,
7 years is a long time out in the weeds, Hope it doesn't look like my car after all that time.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #2
throw in a 4.6 or 5.0. Or maybe the 3.8 supercharged. the tranny should be a aod-e, and a v-8 or v-6 tranny should work, but obviously the v-8 one would be better.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #3
oh, I do belive the 4.6 to have a different bellhousing on it then the 3.8. The 3.8 should have the same as a v-8 as far as bolt pattern goes.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #4
Actually I checked on it last time I was home, the clear coat is absolutley shot but it was when I parked it anyway. I didn't see any rust anywhere, but who knows what we'll find once we really get in it. I do need to replace the right rear quarter panel though. I had someone back into me at the gas station.:beatyoass: haha. I can't wait to get the coug back though, I miss that thing.

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #5
Dump the 3.8L boat anchor and go 5.0L.
There would not be anything wrong with your wrist pins,rod bearings more than likely.
To pull the engine to replace the main and rod bearings as well as get the crank cleaned up would be a waist of money on the 3.8L but it's up to you.
You had coolant in the oil and ran it through all the engine bearings and ruined them so she's pretty much shot.

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #6
Quote from: dominator;236434
Dump the 3.8L boat anchor and go 5.0L.
There would not be anything wrong with your wrist pins,rod bearings more than likely.
To pull the engine to replace the main and rod bearings as well as get the crank cleaned up would be a waist of money on the 3.8L but it's up to you.
You had coolant in the oil and ran it through all the engine bearings and ruined them so she's pretty much shot.



What all would that include? Engine, Engine mounts, Trans, Suspension upgrade, can the independent rear suspension handle that? I have a 9" laying around but would that be a feasible option having to switch from independent to leafs or 3 link(is that even possibly on the unibody)?

All and all I have a budget of around 6000 to spend. I have 1000 wrapped up in paint and paint supplies. 600 in rear quarter panel. Leaving me with 4400. I was hoping to keep half of that for wheels-tires and getting into the interior. I love the 5.0 but I'm not necessarily building a rod out of it right now. The goal is too get rid of my $600 truck payment yet still have a nice set of wheels to ride around in.

I could find a 5.0 easy enough and get a master kit for it, but what all would the conversion include?

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #7
You could also find a J/Y 3.8 for a quick temp. fix and build a 302 on the side. But I would also go for a 302 swap instead of putting money into the 3.8.
I  already had to make the same choice your going through right now, and I ended up finding a bird for my parts and the swap. look around for a suitable parts car.
Take a stroll through Eric's Cool Cats site on the top banner. It has a list of everything to use and need for the transplant and HO swap. It'll give you an idea of what's involved.
We'll also help you anyway we can. no matter which way you decide to go

Jerry
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #8
i had  a 93 3.8l with two blown head gaskets,,,,fixed them and the car runs fine.... the previous owner didnt know what was wrong, and just kept adding coolant...........itwas tan and i think the block was completely filled with coolant/ oil,,,, OUCH!
[/IMG]
Just enjoyin the ride!!!!

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #9
Hell if ya got 6000 Just buy a nice one.
You can find them with mods and lookin good for less than 6000 and it will save ya all the work.

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #10
Quote from: dominator;236491
Hell if ya got 6000 Just buy a nice one.
You can find them with mods and lookin good for less than 6000 and it will save ya all the work.


He is right. you'll still have money left over for gas. ;)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #11
91-93 cougars/birds had the 5.0 h.o. in them from the factory before switching to the 4.6 v-8. Go find a 91-93 5.0 cougar/bird, rip everything out and swap it in your car. Then get the engine rebuilt or swap in mustang parts while your swaping all the wires over.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #12
How about just find one and use the car ya bought.
Seems like a better plan and alot less work.

Digging the coug out of the weeds.

Reply #13
A 5.0 would be a lot easier swap in that car than a 4.6, but I would just buy a really nice V8 one for a lot less than 6000 and be done with it.
Matt
1984 Thunderbird - 89 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600 cfm 4bbl, Mustang headers, Jegs o/r H pipe, Dynomax lers, Mustang AOD and shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, 3G alternator, Mustang front and rear sway bars, KYB 87-88 Turbo Coupe shocks and struts, and 11" front brakes.

1988 Mustang GT - GT40 heads, Explorer intake, 70mm throttle body, 70mm MAF, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 deluxe handle, aluminum clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, o/r h pipe, Dynomax lers, 3G alternator, aluminum radiator, and 3.27 gears.
 
1986 Cougar 5.0, 1989 Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 1980 Mercury Zephyr 4 door (sold)