driveline vibrations

Topic: driveline vibrations (Read 11851 times) previous topic - next topic

driveline vibrations

Reply #15 – January 07, 2009, 09:35:10 PM

I bet...if you don't mind me asking what kind of $$$ are those puppies?

driveline vibrations

Reply #16 – January 07, 2009, 10:03:06 PM

Heh, you don't want to know!

Off the shelf Mustang is $585, custom length (like ours) - maybe $700?

I got mine for like $439 IIRC - a very good deal!

http://www.pstds.com/carbonfiber.htm

insane in the membrane

Reply #17 – May 19, 2010, 01:50:30 PM

:punchballs:Resurrecting this thread again. I am still fighting this darn vibration. Today I took the driveshaft to a driveline place and they checked it for balance for me. They said it is balanced perfectly.

So far I have changed:

1.) all new bearings in rearend (totally rebuilt, even has a new carrier)
2.) adjusted pinion angle to within spec with CHE adjustable UCA's
3.) new Chuck W motor mounts
4.) rebalanced all wheels/tires
5.) new front wheel bearings
6.) all the exhaust components have been changed while the vibration has been going on and nothing has changed, so I am confident there is no rubbing
7.) driveshaft checked for balance
8.) new u-joints

I'm really about ready to go nuts with this guys! As I stated before, the vibration starts around 70 mph or so and gets worse with higher speeds and started after I put in the 8.8 and lowering springs. Anyone want to throw some ideas at me?? Would it matter how the driveshaft is clocked when bolted to the rear? Obviously this is not the original rear so could there be some sort of imbalance between the two? Could the tranny somehow be causing a vibration like this??

HELP!:dunno:

driveline vibrations

Reply #18 – May 19, 2010, 02:51:36 PM

It may be the angle of the input shaft of the driveshaft into the trans. If the angle there is too sharp it will cause a vibration.

I had a vibration after swaping out a T5 for a T56. The tail of the trans was too close to the floor. I drilled holes in the crossmeber below the stock one's, made a dramatic difference.

I had the same thing happen on my Mustang when I installed drop motor mounts.

Mark

driveline vibrations

Reply #19 – May 19, 2010, 03:26:26 PM

Quote from: 86T-bird;322478

It may be the angle of the input shaft of the driveshaft into the trans. If the angle there is too sharp it will cause a vibration.

I had a vibration after swaping out a T5 for a T56. The tail of the trans was too close to the floor. I drilled holes in the crossmeber below the stock one's, made a dramatic difference.

I had the same thing happen on my Mustang when I installed drop motor mounts.

Mark

LOL. I already drilled holes in the trans crossmember and dropped it as part of my pinion angle experiment.

I have read on Corral forums about some people going to a aluminum driveshaft and curing this problem. Something about critical speed of a steel driveshaft after changing rearend gears?

driveline vibrations

Reply #20 – May 19, 2010, 04:15:52 PM

I have the same problem but mine was a shiznitty gear change, (I hope) I chased everything also I have had the problem for over a year still gathering parts to fix it.new gears, spool, axles, and c clip eliminators. I hope that this fixes the problem.

driveline vibrations

Reply #21 – May 19, 2010, 04:44:05 PM

Quote from: 347Thunder;322488

I have the same problem but mine was a shiznitty gear change, (I hope) I chased everything also I have had the problem for over a year still gathering parts to fix it.new gears, spool, axles, and c clip eliminators. I hope that this fixes the problem.

I am on year 6 of my vibration. I don't drive the car much but want to drive it more...I'm just afraid too go any distance due to the vibration. I am so close to having this car where I want it...

driveline vibrations

Reply #22 – May 19, 2010, 04:56:15 PM

My vibration problem went away after the aluminum drive shaft was installed by me.After the gear swap,vibrations were normal,now,no more of them.

driveline vibrations

Reply #23 – May 19, 2010, 04:59:32 PM

did you do the aerostar shaft or the crown vic?

driveline vibrations

Reply #24 – May 19, 2010, 09:58:43 PM

Crown Vic.It was free.I sent the yoke,,and drive shaft to Performance Driveline in Oklahoma City (shipping was only like $22.00 or so),and they cut it,welded it,installed the correct yoke and I sent with new adapter u-joints,balanced it,and sent it back.I sent it on Monday around 4:00,and at 3:00 Tuesday,they called and said it was ready.Awesome guys.

driveline vibrations

Reply #25 – May 19, 2010, 11:26:03 PM

what yoke did you use

driveline vibrations

Reply #26 – May 19, 2010, 11:43:34 PM

I would borrow or swap tires with someone. I had a horrible vibration through two sets of tires on my wifes neon. Had the tires re-balanced many times and couldn't get rid of it. Ended up getting a flat tire and threw the mini-spare on, and no vibrations. You could not tell the tire was damaged.

I dropped the driveshaft on my car when my front u-joint broke. Put a couple of dents in it and grinded the end on the ground untill I came to a stop from about 65mph. I have a slight vibration, but I think it is my front brakes being warped so bad. My vibration remains constant and is noticeable from 35 mph up. All the brakes for our cars are now made in china. I drive anywhere from 55-85mph every day and drive about 150 miles a day, mostly freeway.

I don't think the driveshaft is as critical as people make it out to be. It only turns about 1/3 the speed that the rear end does, depending on your rear end. I would really swap out the tires/rims before I ponied up for a aluminum driveshaft. It is something I want to eventually do though.

driveline vibrations

Reply #27 – May 20, 2010, 12:23:45 AM

Quote from: 50tbrd88;322483

LOL. I already drilled holes in the trans crossmember and dropped it as part of my pinion angle experiment.

I have read on Corral forums about some people going to a aluminum driveshaft and curing this problem. Something about critical speed of a steel driveshaft after changing rearend gears?

I have aluminium driveshafts in both cars and had them both balanced prior to adjusting the crossmember on the T-Bird (on the Mustang I replaced the drop mounts w/standard height mounts).

Chasing an aluminium draftshaft is a red hearing, the material of the driveshaft is irrelevant.

Isolating each component in a process of elimination is necessary. With the car on a lift or jack stands, start pulling off or disconnecting one item at a time. You've replaced lots of parts, it's got to be something simple. You'll find it and probably wonder how you missed it...

Good luck.

driveline vibrations

Reply #28 – May 20, 2010, 01:45:25 AM

Quote from: 347Thunder;322567

what yoke did you use

One from an '88 Bird.I had an extra yoke and in the garage,and that's what I sent them.I removed the Crown Vic yoke and to save on shipping charges.They are probably as heavy as the shaft itself.With shipping and all,I'm probably into the drive shaft for less than $140.00.Pretty fair to me.I've always been taught that the aluminum drive shaft transmits less vibration that the steel one,and by the cast amount of Stang owners (and myself) who have also had great results from using an aluminum piece,I would agree.

driveline vibrations

Reply #29 – May 20, 2010, 02:26:48 AM

to the OP: can you swap axles to see if one (or both) may be bent?
Thunderjet302 had a bent axle once....