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Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

***Problem Solved (See last few posts)***
Getting a terrible sing noise from the right rear, it sounds like a shoe is loose or even totally severed.  How much would it cost to have a shop replace that?  I think I could do it but I have no desire too...

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #1
Just replacing one set of shoes would probably run .7 hrs of labor + parts cost ($25-$55).  $75/hr labor would run ~$75-$110.
They might not agree to service only one side, which would add cost. Also if your shoe if FUBAR, you may needed to resurface/replace the drum.
Doing those two things would bring it to ~$155-$225. This is a WAG for a real shop. NTB flier for comparison. [click]


Now I remember why I do this stuff myself! :)

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #2
Learn how to work on your car......
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #3
Geez, shoes aren't that hard to do. Get a drum brake tool and go at it.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #4
Quote from: Chuck W;192382
Learn how to work on your car......


I do know how to work on my car, actually I'm pretty proud of it.  I'm 17 and I've swapped an AOD for a T-5, (pedals, clutch cable, clutch, etc.) changed head gaskets multiple times and swapped a number of turbos.  With no help other than to lift heavy parts.  I know I could probably do it but I'd rather just not mess with it, I've never worked with drums before.

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #5
Drums are easy not as easy a Disc brakes but still easy. So I'm gonna give you a price if you do it your self. Shoes $15-$20/set, Drum about $50ea or $8 turned if yours can be turned. Then the rest is up to you. If you are gonna do only one side it takes about 30min. both sides about 50min.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #6
Thanks for the info!  Is it neccesary to turn mine if there's no damage to the inside of the drum?

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #7
If you done your tranny swap yourself, I,m sure you can change your brakes. With the money that you are willing to spend at a shop, you could buy new drums, shoes, spring kits, & even new wheel cylinders if you do it yourself. And you will still have gas money leftover. Peace of mind is priceless!

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #8
Some words of advice:
 
Turn the drums whether they look like they need it or not, the shoes will bed in easier and not wear out as fast.
 
If you do one side, do BOTH. Otherwise you will almost certainly find your car pulling to one side under braking and worse yet, on a slippery road it may lock one wheel try to swap ends on you. When it comes to brakes, suspension or steering, I never do just one side.

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #9
Thanks for the words of advice everyone.  I talked to someone here who has worked with these particular drums and he seems to think a spring might have popped loose inside the drum and that's what's causing the sing noise while braking.  I'm going to pull the drum sometime this week/weekend, I'll keep you guys posted on what I find out.

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #10
Simple SIMPLE job, hell you can do it without the tool. just make sure you remember how they go in!
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #11
If you lift the car,pull both drums off,and use one side as a visual reference while you change the other side.I use a small pair of vice grips and a screwdriver to change mine.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #12
My tempo was making a clunking/sing noise after it sat all winter, I figured a spring had broken, pulled the drums off and the pad material had completely come off the backing on both sides.

Although, on Tempo shoes, the pad material is apparently just glued to the backing, so no wonder.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #13
always buy riveted. i honestly dont know why they sell glued. its not worth the risk that comes with it.
1988 Thunderbird sport
2004 Ford F150 Lariat
2008  Chevrolet Cobalt Sport
2007 Suzuki DR-Z400S dual sport/Supermoto
1988 Thunderbird LX - sold
1988 Mercury Cougar XR-7 with GST kit - gone

Rear Drum Issue (Problem Solved)

Reply #14
Quote from: Red_LX;192602
My tempo was making a clunking/sing noise after it sat all winter, I figured a spring had broken, pulled the drums off and the pad material had completely come off the backing on both sides.

Although, on Tempo shoes, the pad material is apparently just glued to the backing, so no wonder.


It doesn't have anything to do with what model car...it has to do with the brand of shoes installed.  Cheap bonded pads/shoes will do that after sitting for a long period of time.

Quote from: grutinator;192603
always buy riveted. i honestly dont know why they sell glued. its not worth the risk that comes with it.


I will never buy another set of riveted anything...I've too frequently seen the linings crack between the rivet holes and large chunks of material missing...I've seen 10 to 1 more problems with riveted pads/shoes than I have with bonded...just don't buy junk and you'll most likely be good to go either way.  Too many people try to save $5 and they end up buying inferior parts...I would never expect a miracle from a $15 set of pads or shoes.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads