She's ALIVE! December 09, 2007, 10:58:49 AM Hellow all, I am new to this forum, and I am glad I am here.The problem I am having is with a 1988 (built Oct 87) Thunderbird 3.8L V6 EFI (not CFI). 69,000 orginal miles, this car was babied.I'll begin with a brief description; I bought the car off a garage who's customers (an older couple) could not afford (or wouldn't) the labour costs to fix it: Blown Head Gaskets.Based on talking to the mechanic at the garage, and from a visual inspection of the car, I can tell you this is probably what happened. The original radiator had died, lowering overall pressure and coolant levels in the block, which would in turn overheat. When the new radiator went in, it brought the pressure back up and blew the gasket. I've since completed this task, and managed to get her running. During the reconstruction job, I completly rebuilt the exhaust system (short of the y-pipe with the dual cats).Before got her running, but after re-assembly, I couldn't get her to start, much less crank-over. So, a new battery, starter motor go in, and she cranks but doesn't fire. So in goes a new TFI-IV ignition module, resulting in a better controlled crank. I did a compression test, just to verify everything goin' on within the block, all good. After another visual inspection I discover the rotor under the distributer cap was broken. Ten bucks, perfect. Replaced. And, She's ALIVE!! I had her running for about 30 minutes before shutting the car off. Everything seemed to be okay, so I think I've won.Now, after I start the car, she'll go through the cold-choke warmup routine, then stall. I can keep the engine running with my foot on the pedal, but as soon as my foot comes off the pedal, she stalls.I have thought about timing being off, but it has not changed from the evening where I had got her to run for 30mins. It must be something new.The only other point worth mentioning is the serpentine belt. It seems to have frayed (as if it wasn't lined up properly with the pullys), today I will replace it. Could this lack of cohesion in the belt produce enough drag on the engine to stall it out? Or would it be more likely that it's an accessory (i.e. alternator, smog pump) that has siezed?Before I got the car running, I was doing a lot of cranking, which in turn drains the battery. After the car was running, it seemed to be charging it's own battery (as after I got her running, I didn't need the charger or the booster), however, on the last run, I let the engine run with my foot on the accelerator for about 10 mins. I had to get the booster out to try to start it again after she stalled. It's almost as if the alternator didn't do anything this time.If it's not the belt (or if the belt is a symptom), could the cause actually be a sticky alternator?Any suggestions from anyone would be more than appreciated. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #1 – December 09, 2007, 11:12:48 AM When you go to get the new belt,take the alternator with you to the parts store and have it checked. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #2 – December 09, 2007, 11:20:36 AM lol, there's an idea. Thank-you, I will. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #3 – December 09, 2007, 11:39:18 AM I see you read the post I left you. Welcome aboard! Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #4 – December 09, 2007, 03:45:15 PM It's good to be here, thank-you for suggesting it. I am sure I will learn something, and I hope I can contribute aswell. I just, well, pardon the pun, but the Fox Cougars and T-Birds are the cat's meow.... you could call me obsessed. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #5 – December 09, 2007, 04:17:20 PM take the belt off and try and spinn all the accerories by hand, they should all spin freely, (except the PS pump, there will be a slight drag there) if they dont spin freely, then change that part. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #6 – December 09, 2007, 04:29:19 PM That would give me something to do tonight; it's too cold.. lol, :D, I shall try it tomorrow.That's the advantage of sharing ideas, you thought of something that I just didn't think of trying. Thanks man,oh, BTW, I love your signature picture. That's my XR7 isn't it...? lol. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #7 – December 09, 2007, 04:53:38 PM QuoteNow, after I start the car, she'll go through the cold-choke warmup routine, then stall. I can keep the engine running with my foot on the pedal, but as soon as my foot comes off the pedal, she stalls.check your codes first before changing anything.could be a temp sensor or throttle position sensor not making it stay running.the charging problem seems to already be coveredwelcome to the group. pull up a chair and stay a while Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #8 – December 09, 2007, 04:54:52 PM np man. I dont know.... is this your XR-7 ? Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #9 – December 09, 2007, 05:35:25 PM Nice car 1WLD BRD! :)Quote from: daminc;191873check your codes first before changing anything.could be a temp sensor or throttle position sensor not making it stay running.the charging problem seems to already be coveredAfter pouring over the code-reader and utilizing the Ford EEC-IV Breakout Box there are no faults detected. No error codes, no trouled gadgets (you know, assuming I'm doing it correctly :hick: )I still think it's mechanical... unless it's something WAY out there. I'll know a little bit more tomorrow after I get the alternator tested and pickup the serpentine belt and try her again. I'll keep you posted. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #10 – December 09, 2007, 05:50:21 PM could be.fixing 1 thing at a time is always the best route to follow.way out there, could be the computer its self. Is it original? Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #11 – December 09, 2007, 05:59:52 PM Quote from: daminc;191881could be.fixing 1 thing at a time is always the best route to follow.way out there, could be the computer its self. Is it original?yeah, otherwise, it just costs too much time and money.Granted there are 20 years of this cars life I know nothing about, I can tell you that the interior appears to be in such good shape, I don't think anyone has ever been there. Remeber, this is the car I believe for it's life was owned by an older couple and babied, in the garage everynight (and frankly the body is so good I think she was never winter driven). I would bet it is the original computer... unless...Is there a way to perhaps compare a number on the computer (say a barcode or computer ID number) with the VIN or Calibration of the car? Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #12 – December 09, 2007, 06:29:51 PM I think my replacement was date stamped. not sure about the original though. I may still have it somewhere. I'll have to check.anyway, had running problems myself only to find that the computer was bad after replacing sensors and the problems were still there. didn't know of any way to check the comp. itself. except for replacing it. then I found out what was wrong for real. starts up and runs no problem ever since. the driving part is now pretty scary though Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #13 – December 09, 2007, 06:43:14 PM Yeah, if you could check into that, I would greatly appreciate it... tomorrow I will inspect visually, the computer that is in there now and see if maybe a 'date-stamp' is on there, or any other numbers I can find. I'll be honest, I am skeptical about the cause being the computer, especially (not only my observation of the condition) but when I consider some of the tests I ran with the computer plugged into my Breakout Box plugged into the car's wiring harness. They seem to suggest that "The EEC-IV system is NOT at fault."But you do raise an interesting question... if the fuel computer is not original to Salt or if the computer is faulty, could the computer have the ability to control the gadgets without generating, at the very least, a 'ghost-code'? All tests I can do suggest no error codes, no problems with the wiring harness... but I suppose it could be that 'way-out-there' fear...We'll have to compare notes after you've checked into the computer and I've recorded all info off any visible lable of that computer, who knows... I'd love to find out.Thanks. Quote Selected
She's ALIVE! Reply #14 – December 09, 2007, 07:30:19 PM The EEC(computer) rarely fails... I'm running one from a '89 Mustang that was flooded by salt water... Just washed it out and it's fine...If you are getting code 11 for no faults, look elsewhere... If it won't give any codes, well maybe... Quote Selected