Multiple electrical issues December 06, 2007, 11:53:13 PM So, I have a few issues as of late, seems the electrical gremlins decided to pay the Tbird a visit. Let me say that these issues did NOT all occur at once, it's just that the latest one is real annoying, and I'm going to fix it and all the other ones while I'm at it. The car is an 87 Thunderbird with digital cluster, cruise, and it does not have EATC. Here are my issues:1. Tachometer- the backlighting in the top part of the scale flickers, I think from 3000 RPM upwards to the end of the tach. The bargraph segments work fine, it's JUST the numbers above the bargraph.2. Cruise control- was driving with cruise set one night and the accelerator pedal snapped back to idle. Like a cable snapped or something and suddenly released the accelerator. Could not get it to reengage after that, horn does still work.3. The most annoying symptom ever- I switch the ignition on, and everything powers up like it should. Pushing forward on the steering wheel makes the cluster displays go blank...they all stay backlit however no numbers are displayed. When this happens, the cluster, clock, tripminder, blower fan and wipers stop working. What could cause each of these 3 items to happen? Bad ignition switch? If so how do I access and change the ignition switch?Thanks and good night. Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #1 – December 07, 2007, 09:04:50 AM The tach problem is likely in the cluster itself, since it's only one component of the cluster affected (if the bar graph part showed the same problem I'd say the cause was elsewhere)The cruise problem is probably a bad cruise module or cableThe third problem is your most serious. Luckily it's also the easiest to fix. You need an ignition switch and possibly a harness to the switch, both available cheaply from Ford. It's a well known problem. Changing it is easy - remove the steering column shroud and there it is. You'll need a tamper-proof TORX bit to remove the screws holding it to the column (a tamper-proof torx bit is just a regular torx bit with a hole in it).I'd recommend disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected until you replace the switch. There is a very real danger that your car could burn right now, whether it's running or not. I had one burn myself (though luckily I was in the car and caught it before it spread out of the column). Wouldn't want your user name to be an accurate descriptor of your car Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #2 – December 07, 2007, 10:27:47 AM Agreed.I'd like to point out that the ignition switch is not where you stick the key - that is the key lock cylinder.I'd hate to see you replace the key lock cylinder and think that you've replaced the ignition switch. It seems to be a common point of confusion (I did it the first time). Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #3 – December 07, 2007, 12:24:35 PM I nominate this thread for a sticky, as an ignition switch is commonly confused with the lock cylinder. :D Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #4 – December 07, 2007, 12:41:37 PM Okay, well I'll give Ford a call and see about that ignition switch. I knew that it was separate from the lock cylinder but was contemplating replacing said lock cylinder also, as it is worn out. I didn't think getting to the switch would be as simple as taking the column shroud off, because in my 97 Bird the switch is accessed by removing the panel at the bottom of the dash. Easy job, however removing the panel in the 87 revealed no switch, so I figured I would have to take the column apart after removing the key cylinder and MFS and such.Oh and sorry for the gibberish typing at the end of my original post, I corrected it. That was me falling asleep in front of the computer, lol. Woke up and finished typing, but I guess I got my forum post confused with a Word dospoogeent I had open, lol.Thanks again! Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #5 – December 09, 2007, 01:36:53 PM RockAuto carries the Motorcraft ignition switch for $13.60, but it looks like it has a metal housing still. When I looked at mine the other night, the plastic lower half was separating from the metal top half, and I could see that the internal switch contacts were coming dangerously close to grounding out on that metal body. I presume this is what causes the short and subsequent fire, and I would like to know if the replacement Motorcraft one is likely to fail again. The AC Delco unit listed on RockAuto looks all-plastic to me, and therefore seems safer...even if it is made by Chevy, lol. The factory switch in my 97 Bird had an all-plastic housing, and there were no recalls or TSB's related to it.Thanks! Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #6 – December 09, 2007, 02:04:58 PM I've got a Delco switch in my car and it's metal. Even has a Ford part number stamped on it in ink, but it was in a Delco box :hick: Quote Selected
Multiple electrical issues Reply #7 – December 11, 2007, 09:58:32 AM Quote from: Thunder Chicken;191850I've got a Delco switch in my car and it's metal. Even has a Ford part number stamped on it in ink, but it was in a Delco box :hick:Well, that's about pointless then. Why would GM rebrand a Ford part? I suppose the new switches aren't designed any different than the old ones...pretty stupid. I ordered the Motorcraft one, should be here soon. Quote Selected
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