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Winter driving/handling

...As I have always thought that these '80s T-Birds and Cougars are light weighted in the rear (for lack of a more scientific description), I ask ---what do you do for better traction in snow and Ice?  We have been putting 40# softener salt bags in the trunk for winter handling of the T-Bird.  I recently got an idea and thought that several 33# solid masonry (grey) blocks take up less room.  That idea was junked when I was reminded that these objects become lethal missiles if you take a rear end hit by some speeding idiot.  Actually wonder if these blocks could penetrate the rear seat area--but I am not going to test that situation for ever happening (back to the salt).  We have had 3+ sets of tires on this bird over 15 years and the winter handling is pretty much the same---lousy, without the weight in the trunk.  The rear bumper in these vehicles is all plastic and fiberglass by the way, which I am sure doesn't help the matter.

Winter driving/handling

Reply #1
My technique is to close the garage door and lock it until spring :D
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Winter driving/handling

Reply #2
All I do for traction is lock the front hubs and shift into 4hi :hick:

Joking apart, you're correct that heavy weight will come through the back seat, but not if you're rear ended. If you're rear-ended the weight will tend to fly backward. If you hit something, though, the weight will come forward, and the flimsy seat back will not stop it. My sister hit a Dodge minivan head on in her Cavalier at 40MPH and the 10-pound dumbell she had in the trunk bowed the rear seat back (almost bent it in half). That was 10 pounds, so I can well imagine what 25-50 pounds would do.

I don't drive my 88 T-Bird in the winter, but I did drive my old '87 Sport - the traction-lock rear and good snow tires made that car a tank in the snow. I only ever got it "stuck" once, in a foot of heavy wet snow facing up a hill at an intersection. I only had to back up and try again, though, so it wasn't even really stuck. And that was with no weight in the trunk.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Winter driving/handling

Reply #3
Quote
The rear bumper in these vehicles is all plastic and fiberglass by the way

I don't know about your car, but mine has a steel inner bumper. Otherwise is has the urethane cover. When I lived in Washington St I didn't have too much trouble at all driving in the snow and I had Goodyear Eagle Aqua Treads.
Now a days, I just pull the lever from 2W into 4W/HI and keep rolling :hick:  Get some good winter tires and put those sand bags in the back and you'll be good to go.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

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“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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Winter driving/handling

Reply #4
15 years ago when it was a DD all i had in the trunk was a spare tire. and very expensive all weather tires on it. I never got stuck in a Buffalo storm. or park it and drive a f-250

I think I still have the same tires on it.
Isn't that sad when your tires out last your car.
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Winter driving/handling

Reply #5
(Working) Traction-Lok makes all the difference in the world. But regardless of the rear differential, the absolute best thing anyone can do is invest in a GOOD set of snow tires. Added weight in the trunk also helps tremendously; about 100 lbs. is perfect. Softener salt bags are very good as they can distribute the weight evenly. So is cat litter...plus if you ever get stuck on ice, the litter can be put under the tires for traction.

Don't forget emergency stuff too: extra clothing, a blanket, road flares, an emergency kit, a good ice ser, non-perishable food rations in the glove box...even a small shovel. Think in terms of, if you are stuck somewhere, how long would you last without the supplies? And with? Worst case scenario will determine everything.

In almost 20 years of driving Fox cars in the winter, I have never gotten stuck anywhere. There were more than a few times that I went 85+ mph in a parking lot yet the car never moved forward. A few more times, I went up a very steep hill virtually sideways. Took me 15 minutes but I got to the top every time. One time a few years ago I was 160 miles from home, a normal three-hour trip. The snow came down quickly, and it took 7 hours to get close to home, and the sun went down quickly, and the headlights were yellowed. Couldn't see ; I literally plowed my way home, never knowing if I was going to drive into a bridge abutment or over the edge of a bridge, using the light from oncoming cars to light my way. But that ed T-Bird got me home. These are absolutely dependable cars and when treated properly, they will do their job admirably for you.

Winter driving/handling

Reply #6
I just took off my 10 holes and put on some all seasons in the front and some winters in the rear, coupled with 3 sandbags in the trunk I should be set for the whole 8 month winter.

'88 Mercury Cougar LS, 302, Project Car - "The Coug"
'83 Ford Thunderbird Heritage, 302, Summer Ride, - "The Bambi Killer"
'86 Chevrolet S10, Daily Driver -  "The Black Beater"

Winter driving/handling

Reply #7
Quote from: Cougar5.0;188581
My technique is to close the garage door and lock it until spring :D


Hey you do the same thing I do with my 88 T-bird ;)

Winter should be fun this year with my MN-12 V6 and peg leg rear. Last time I drove rear wheel drive in the snow was 4 years ago and it was a T-lok equipped 89 Crown Vic....no problems in the snow with that.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Winter driving/handling

Reply #8
Quote from: thunderjet302;188630
Winter should be fun this year with my MN-12 V6 and peg leg rear.

That's gonna be fun, the ex-wife's 89 Bird was a riot in snow and on ice...it was fun, unless we actually were trying to go anywhere lol
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Winter driving/handling

Reply #9
Added Trac-loc! I know it sounds like JUST a good excuse to add trac-loc but (although I diden't need an excuse) but I expect to be able to go anyplace now. I usually carry those cable chains and use those if needed. Single trac and thats not so good. But has worked the last 3-4 years in my 88 bird. This year with Trac-Loc and 275's and a 2-3" drop I'm not real sure I will have room for chains (and my old chains will probably not fit. So I'm going with just the Trac-Loc till I see if I'm going to be needing chains.
:birdsmily:   Objects In Mirror Appear to be Loosing  :birdsmily:

Winter driving/handling

Reply #10
U-haul trailor hitch works pretty well but i took that off my car i so i better remeber not ot drive crazy if it snows. but at least i got 3 amps and 2 caps and 2 subs sitting over my back tires so it might not drive 2 bad this winter i hope.

Best thing that works stay home and play video games for the winter as much as you can untill the weather gets good again and you can just get in the car and drive for the most part untill winter comes back again.
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/Carpimp1987
1987 T-Bird AEROBIRD-GT had many many mods but is now totaled and is the car that made me want to start customizing everything all over again.
1988 T-Bird 5.0 HO DD/Sleeper/next project car :birdsmily:
1988 Cougar XR7 5.0 HO Vortech Supercharged being bulit right now :cougarsmily:


Winter driving/handling

Reply #11
Man, I've never added weight, and always have had performance oriented tires on my cars, and never had too much trouble. I've been close to stuck once. That was it.
It's Gumby's fault.

Winter driving/handling

Reply #12
Last year on the way back from a slot car race I ran into an ice storm. Road was slick as snot for 15 miles and me with 275s on the rear and no added weight. I held on to it though, the rear tried to step out a few times but I kept it straight and moving forward. Several SUV drivers were not so lucky. I must have seen a dozen of them in the ditch on the way. Sometimes it's less a matter of what you drive but how smart you drive it.

Winter driving/handling

Reply #13
I think that the majority of people who own SUV's think that just because they're in a 4x4 they're invincible...until they gotta stop or turn suddenly.

It's all in how you drive, the tires, and making the most of what traction is available.

I think it's funny that everybody "has to have" a 4 wheel drive for winter, when in fact, they are among the most frequently stuck.
Last year I only pulled the lever 2 times on my chevy, both times I was on ice and going uphill.

I've never had a trac-loc rear in the slick stuff, but I only got my Bird stuck once, because the road was muddy, and about 2 inches of wet snow had fallen, and I met another vehicle. When I got over on my side of the gravel road, the soft mud pulled me off into the ditch. It wasn't a lack of traction..I was able to go several feet forwards and backwards, I just couldn't claw my way out.
I think decent tires with a lot of little grooves called siping, and and a bit of weight over the driven wheels, and some decent bad-weather driving skill will enable one to go just about anywhere.
And if snow is THAT  deep that you need the clearance of a 4x4, ya need to stay inside in the first place! lol
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Winter driving/handling

Reply #14
I always said these cars are tanks, but with balls
They always stopped well in snow too
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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