I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! September 08, 2007, 02:43:47 PM More electrical shenanigans!:punchballs: About a month or so ago, I had a problem with the charging system fusible link on my car. I checked all connections, wires and grounds in the charging system that were under the hood. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary other than the burned / charrd wire up to the link. I attributed my issue to maybe a bare spot on the burned section. I replaced the fusible link without incident using an off the shelf one from an auto parts store that was the same size (16 guage) that was labeled for a Dodge as the Ford ones they had were equipped with terminal ends instead of wires.Fast forward to last night. I start the car and pull out of the driveway. No issue. I get 1/4 mile from the house and I smell that plastic burning smell. I turn around, pull in front of the house, shut off the car and pop the hood. The replacement fusible link is fried.Reading through the Coolcats website I did notice that the charging system fusible link is stated to be 14 guage. My original and the replacement were 16 guage. That coupled with the wiring diagram I have included in this post lead me to believe it may be a different fusible link altogether, but other than the battery light coming on and the chime going off in the car, it runs fine without that particular link. Voltage accross the battery without this link in place is 12.4 (I didn't measure it with a link in place) volts so that supports it being for the charging system. The first 2 pictures below are of the harness the link was a part of. The terminal connects to the positive side of the starter solenoidThat big plug just after the terminal is simply an insulated splice from what I've read and been told. All 3 of the fusible links in this harness are spliced together here and go to the terminal lead on the starter solenoid.More food for thought. The fusible link had 2 wires coming out the back side going to the 5 pin connector whereas the other 2 on this mini-harness are straight through with one wire on each side. It's become readily apparent that I need to change that ignition switch I have laying around as this is the second electrical issue in less than 10 days in which the switch is a possible suspect. As far as the link itself I would like to know 2 things:1) Which fusible link is this?2) If I were to replace it with a fuse setup or another link, should I use 2 instead of one? That is one for each wire which both ran into the old one. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #1 – September 08, 2007, 05:03:31 PM i burned the sensor thats used for the TEMP gauge on my dash on my headers after i got my new gagues put in. That smells almost gone after 1 or 2 weeks. will take a picture later Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #2 – September 08, 2007, 05:59:44 PM If you want pictures of any of this let me know.The 84 EVTM uses the same diagram for both 3.8 and 5.0 and has a yellow 14 ga fuse link in the alternator output circuit.In the 87 EVTM the 3.8 has a 14ga link while the 5.0 has a black 16ga link.Can't tell the wire sizes in the EVTM but the rules say a 14ga link protects a 10ga wire and a 16ga link protects a 12ga wire. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #3 – September 08, 2007, 09:29:03 PM Also you go through two connectors between the fuse link and the alternator. They split the current through two paths but the current rating of the connectors has to be considered when sizing the fuse link.The 3.8 has no connectors between the fuse link and the alternator.You are drawing more current than it was designed to handle. Is the alternator stock? How about the rest of the car? Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #4 – September 08, 2007, 10:05:57 PM Quote from: V8Demon;1751531) Which fusible link is this?looks to be fuse link A on c497 if that light gray connector there leads its way up to the alternator.Quote from: V8Demon;1751532) If I were to replace it with a fuse setup or another link, should I use 2 instead of one?Noit worked like this all these years,,so you are only adapting to something when actually you have a problem. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #5 – September 10, 2007, 06:47:32 AM OK. THe harness is back in one piece and reinstalled. I cut out that big insulated 3 into one splice as that's right where it had burned up this time. I think the last link I put in may just not have been spliced very well. I have to do a voltage test with the car running to check the voltage regulator for sure though.QuoteIs the alternator stock? How about the rest of the car?Yes and yes I am not big into aftermarket radios. I'll put better quality speakers in, but they're almost always stock size in the cars I've changed them in. I put some speakers in this car about a year after I bought it. I've had the car since 1998 so...... ALSO The air conditioning system has been removed from the car about 2 years ago.I'm curious as to why the first replacement link lasted a month without issue. When it went the headlights were on and not flickering. The radio was on as well. Like I said, voltage test today. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #6 – September 10, 2007, 11:27:29 AM Alrighty..... the voltage test accross the battery posts with the engine running showed a steady 14.4 volts with lights and radio on. Same with everything off. Holding the motor rpm's to 3000 RPM's showed the same result as well. The wires are not hot to the touch. All grounds are in place and clean. I'm stumped. Is it in fact possible that the splice I cut out and replaced just had bad wires this time and I did not realize it? Would this have caused my issue? Also, what should the voltage read accross the starter solenoid? It jumped all over the place. I tried in A/C and D/C modes. It never went above 14.4, but was not steady at all. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #7 – September 12, 2007, 11:24:42 AM I say forget the multi small wire setup. Go get some large wire High grade wire like Car audio multi multi multi stranded stuff. Run say at least 4ga with a inline fuse holder with a fuse. If you have a 80 amp alt get a 90- 100 amp fuse. Then you can forget about those fuse links. Also you won't get much over 14.4 the regulator cuts it off. That is if it is working right. When you turn on the lights and such it might drop voltage for a millisecond or so but it should come right back to 14.5 or so. It should be steady even with the lights on and what ever else. It might just be best to upgrade to the 3g alt set now and be done with it. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #8 – September 12, 2007, 11:35:17 AM QuoteAlso you won't get much over 14.4 the regulator cuts it off. That is if it is working right.That's why I tested it. To make sure it was in fact working right. By doing so I've taken the regulator off the list of potential problems.QuoteIt might just be best to upgrade to the 3g alt set now and be done with it. I have to make absolutely sure I dont have an issue first. Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #9 – September 14, 2007, 08:07:17 PM Found an unconnected ground from the bellhousing to firewall. Forgot all about that one.....Solved! Quote Selected
I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! Reply #10 – September 14, 2007, 09:38:26 PM O.K.,NOW do the 3G upgrade. Quote Selected
Topic: I hate that burned plastic smell--Solved! (Read 4459 times)
previous topic - next topic
