brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Topic: brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc. (Read 8594 times) previous topic - next topic

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

May 19, 2007, 10:33:38 PM

went to one of my favorite stores today, EARLS. happens to be in the same lot as my work even :hick:
got some fittings to match the new master cylinder, some short lines, and a couple "tee"s. also gave them the lengths i need for my new rear lines. they should be ready monday or tuesday along with the adj. prop valve that they were out of stock on. weird cause they usually have like 20 of them on the shelf.

3-2 conversion, gumby style

the rear line there is jus hangin out waitin for the prop valve. i will probly bend it 90* to point straight up, but didnt wanna do that till im holdin the prop valve in my hand to be sure of its orientation.

and in the rear

sweet 7/16x24 to -3an fitting with the groove in it to match the retaining clip on the factory bracket!
w/a -3an "tee" to connect the braided lines i will run out to each caliper. also grabbed a couple banjo fittings and bolts to fit the IRS calipers

fully assembled the IRS today as well(hopefully for the last time). its sittin on a roll cart waitin on the rear lines to arrive.

its been a good saturday

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #1 – May 19, 2007, 10:41:27 PM

so you bypassed the factory prop valve completely, hmmm.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #2 – May 19, 2007, 10:43:35 PM

bypassed? i think its in the trash can in the garage, lol

ill be runnin a wilwood adjustable on the rear line as soon as it shows up.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #3 – May 20, 2007, 01:56:31 AM

Looks good. I did my brakes the same way before I went with the Tilton 3 pedal set-up. The lines even then are the same, just have two masters for the brakes rather than a double stock-type.
I would suggest you avoid aluminum fittings in the brakelines though. If it were me, I would replace that rear Tee with a steel or better stainless version.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #4 – May 20, 2007, 07:38:21 AM

I love Earls stuff.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #5 – May 20, 2007, 09:36:53 AM

Quote from: Prototype Services;148449

I would suggest you avoid aluminum fittings in the brakelines though.

whats the reasoning behind this?

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #6 – May 20, 2007, 10:05:42 AM

yes what is the reasioning? the only issue i can see is possibly corossion but if you keep your fluid fresh it shouldn't be a problem. as for structually i don't see aluminium being an issue.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #7 – May 20, 2007, 11:58:20 AM

Looking good there Gumby :D
Did that place make the lines for you?? I had checked into factory lines for my IRS and !!! they are expensive!! one place I went to even said they weren't available (the flex lines) stock calipers were close too $200 with a $60 or 65 core!!(each!!) Although I found some other Cobra calipers.

John

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #8 – May 20, 2007, 01:48:38 PM

yeah, they keep certain lengths in stock, but can make any length you need.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #9 – May 20, 2007, 10:17:45 PM

gumby, are you going to run the flex lines from that blue tee fitting to the calipers or ?? won't they be a little on the long side?? When I get back to working on my beasty, let me know how much the short lines were and, if you would please, get me what I need after I send you the $$$ I already have an adj b/p valve. I will also need to run a new line to the rear of the car.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #10 – May 20, 2007, 10:49:22 PM

yes, im gonna run braided all the way from the tee to the calipers. i dont foresee any issues. guess we will find out.

you can find a dealer local to you also
http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Earls

i dont know the prices yet, i put them on the shops account, hehe

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #11 – May 20, 2007, 11:27:02 PM

Sorry to take so long to reply
The reason for not using aluminum on brake fittings is fatigue, not so much corrosion. Brakes have 1000-1500psi each time you apply the brakes. Every part tries to swell like a balloon, but only a tiny amount. Aluminum will only take a certain number of cycles before it cracks. Maybe it will never happen to you, but why risk a $10 part? Especially with the flex line moving up and down attached to it. Now you have the bending fatigue added in.
I know some sanctioning bodies don't allow aluminum in brake lines.
One more thing, it is best to keep flex lines as short as possible to keep a firmer pedal. You may never notice on the street, especially on the rear brakes. But flex lines will "balloon" more than a tubular steel line.
Racing motorcycles use a -2 line and I think F-1 does too. Nextel Cup and every other modern racecar I have seen uses -3. They got away from using -4 lines to keep the area of the tubing smaller to reduce the ballooning affect. This keeps a firmer pedal/lever.
But as I said, on the street you may never notice.
Dave

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #12 – May 21, 2007, 06:21:01 AM

thank you for the information. i wouldnt have thought about fatigue from internal pressure on the fittings.
all the braided lines on my car are -3. i figure even with a relatively long run(36") its gonna be better than the rubber flex line combined with rubber lines at the calipers on a live axle w/discs.
i keep a very close eye on all my brakin components. im gonna run it this way now(braided lines), and see how it works. ive driven full cars plumbed with braided. doesnt make it "right," i know, but it also didnt have any pedal feel or line failure issues.
ill ask ricky today if he has a steel tee to swap with that aluminum one or not.

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #13 – May 21, 2007, 07:30:04 AM

It will be safer with the steel Tee. Yes, all braided lines will work, but it isn't "best".
As I said, I eventually changed my Sport over to a triple master cylinder set-up and full manual brakes. I was roadracing the car as well as daily-driving and I was VERY concerned with pedal feel and firmness.
Dave

brake plumbing, SN95 master, etc.

Reply #14 – May 21, 2007, 09:31:16 AM

Prototype Sevices, If one doesn't use flexable braided stainless line, what else is there to use then?? The OEM rubber lines swells alot more than the stainless. I too will be running my car in NASA'S HPDE class. I also will be changing my brakes to manual for the same reason. I'm used to manual brakes so to drive it as a daily driver doesn't bother me.

gumby, thanks for the site, I'll check it out. :D

John.