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Topic: Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard (Read 4716 times) previous topic - next topic

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

I need to patch a couple holes in my bird and there is a nice TC at the JY that is rust free but i cant think of a clean and relatively quick(not taking all day to cut out the patch with tin snips). Anybody have any ideas on how i could get the patch pieces cut out.

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #1 –
Battery powered sawzall?
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #2 –
Or battery powered die grinder with a cutoff wheel (do they even make such a thing? not sure if I know of any battery powered die grinders or cutoff tools)

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #3 –
Cutting the patches with tin snips would just ruin them, if you could even manage it. Do you have, or do you know anybody that has, a power inverter powerful enough to run a Dremel or angle grinder? If so, and if you can get your car close enough (even if you have to use an extension cord between the inverter and power tool) you could do it that way. That's what I'd try to do. Leave the car powering the inverter's engine running, too, or you'll kill the battery very quickly

Remember, too, to take a patch much larger than what you actually need. You'll find that the rust damage on your car covers a much larger area than what you can see.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #4 –
all the junkyards I've been too will allow a generator to be brought in.. even the pick n pull yards..
One 88

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #5 –
Some parts they will remove for you. Have you asked them? I'm sure your not the first to want a quarter panel.
:birdsmily:   Objects In Mirror Appear to be Loosing  :birdsmily:

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #6 –
I've done it with a sawzall before... quarter panels are tricky tho. i think i used a short and long blade because of all the different creases and how there is stuff in the way rite behind the outer skin in some spots. also, I'm fairly sure I've seen a battery powered grinder from dewalt.

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #7 –
I have used a combination of sawzall, angle grinder and drill, to remove the panels I wanted from one of my parts cars.

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #8 –
for that rust spot under the trim, I had the samething.  I fabricated my own patch panels for it though.

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #9 –
1 Wld Brd - I had that same part rot out on my '87 Sport. Isn't that a son of a bitch to repair, especially when the wheel well rots out too (as I see yours did, too)? I made my own panel too, but I didn't have the luxury of a welder (or garage) so I riveted it in. Don't have any pics of that particular panel, but i also had to make a rocker panel patch, and did get pics of that. I used galvanized ducting for the sheet metal. The second pic is as far as I got on the body work on that car before giving up - it needed EVERYTHING - door bottoms, rocker panels, quarter panels, fenders (I actually installed brand new fenders on it, too). That car made me swear to never again own a rustbucket...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #10 –
yeah it was a P.I.T.A.  Took me about 4 hours to fabricate the pieces. I used a 10lbs anvil and some body hammers to form them.  I love my welder.  Just got done welding an entire front clip/ rad support, on my '85 Cougar the other day.  The next body shop type tool I will be picking up is a sheet metal brake.

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;140251
Cutting the patches with tin snips would just ruin them, if you could even manage it. Do you have, or do you know anybody that has, a power inverter powerful enough to run a Dremel or angle grinder? If so, and if you can get your car close enough (even if you have to use an extension cord between the inverter and power tool) you could do it that way. That's what I'd try to do. Leave the car powering the inverter's engine running, too, or you'll kill the battery very quickly

Remember, too, to take a patch much larger than what you actually need. You'll find that the rust damage on your car covers a much larger area than what you can see.



How big of an inverter would i need to run a 4.5" angle grinder?

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #12 –
Look at the amps (should be on a sticker on the grinder). Multiply that by 120. That'll give you the watts the grinder draws. Add 50% to the watts to give the inverter a bit of breathing room, and that's the size inverter you'll need.

For example, if your grinder draws 3 amps, multiply that by 120 and you get 360 watts. Half of 360 is 180, add that to 360 (to get your extra 50%), and you end up with 540 watts. I dunno if you can get a 550 watt model, but if not a 600 watt inverted would be best for a 3 amp grinder.

The reason you should leave the engine running is that pulling around 300 watts out of your battery will draw about 25 amps. That's about double what your headlights draw. Hit 600 watts (by jamming the grinder or working it too hard) and you'll be pulling the equivalent of four sets of headlights out of your battery. Needless to say, without the engine running the battery would go dead very quickly.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #13 –
Best idea,buy the complete rust free TC from the s yard swap over your good parts from your car and s your rusty shell.
Don't mean to be harsh but if the rust on your quarters look like that i hate to see your front frame rails/torque boxes or rocker panels.
Believe me when i  tell you that kind of rust is not worth fixing.
My old 88 5.0L was rusted as bad as that and i tried for 9 yrs to save it with bondo,fiberglass and metal,it looked mint from 10feet away but underneith there was just gum holding it together.
After spending 800 dollars to have new front frame rails fabed and installed a new 5.0HO went in and within a week i tore the rotted torque boxes right out of the car.
Needless to say i waisted my money and should have sped that rusty p.o.s. years ago but i liked the car that much.
For the time money and effort your going to put in that car,STOP right where you are,START saving money and pick up a fairly rust free bird or cat and concentrate on making that mint.

Cutting out sheet metal at a Junkyard

Reply #14 –
Quote from: dominator;140350
Best idea,buy the complete rust free TC from the s yard swap over your good parts from your car and s your rusty shell.
Don't mean to be harsh but if the rust on your quarters look like that i hate to see your front frame rails/torque boxes or rocker panels.
Believe me when i  tell you that kind of rust is not worth fixing.
My old 88 5.0L was rusted as bad as that and i tried for 9 yrs to save it with bondo,fiberglass and metal,it looked mint from 10feet away but underneith there was just gum holding it together.
After spending 800 dollars to have new front frame rails fabed and installed a new 5.0HO went in and within a week i tore the rotted torque boxes right out of the car.
Needless to say i waisted my money and should have sped that rusty p.o.s. years ago but i liked the car that much.
For the time money and effort your going to put in that car,STOP right where you are,START saving money and pick up a fairly rust free bird or cat and concentrate on making that mint.

The TC was in a fire and you cant buy the cars from the JY here. Besides the rest of my car isnt rusty. I will fix the spots properly and make sure the rust wont come back. Im not afraid of rust or welding in new metal. BTW The front frame rails dont even have surface rust on them.