0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Topic: 0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds. (Read 6560 times) previous topic - next topic

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

February 18, 2007, 12:33:07 PM

im home this weekend, and my o2 sensor extension wires came.
i hooked up those spare sensors i had, which dad bought a few years ago and never put on. problem is, i discovered only yesterday the one was a Bosch 15716, which corresponds to some 5.0L cars but not ours. an ebay listing mentioned 95 mistangs, e350s, etc.

so i bought a new 13942, so now i have two 13942's like im supposed to, and there is still no improvement in power, and the MPG is still bad, and i get one KOER code: 91 - "HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (left side)." btw, what does left side mean?.

with a multimeter i checked the continuity between the pass. o2 sensor casing, and the bolt that holds the pass. side "ring" connector whose wire comes from the o2 sensor harness to the cyl. head. it beeped, so the connection is good, between the h-pipe, header, etc. i didnt bother to do the other side, ill have to check it to be sure.

whats a little curious though is that the old oxygen sensors arent all black with soot. ?????

what other tests can i do? is there anything else that could be a factor? the code 91 is a red flag to me that its the o2 sensors. if its constantly getting a lean signal then it will keep dumping too much fuel in, right?

at some point im gonna start considering paying a friggin shop to figure this mess out for me, because im really sick of it. anyone else ever reach that point?

lol

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #1 – February 18, 2007, 06:21:20 PM

Best check I've found is to peirce the wire and measure the voltage of the sensor while it is running. It should be varying between 0-1V as the engine is running/gunning the accellerator. A bad sensor usually just sits at a value.

I'd guess your left side sensor signal isn't making it back to the ECU.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #2 – February 18, 2007, 10:30:07 PM

okay, so now, gotta ask lol, which is the left side!!??

looking at the car from the back, or from the front?

oh also which wire do i pierce? what does each of them do?

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #3 – February 19, 2007, 01:40:20 AM

Quote from: ZondaC12;130300

okay, so now, gotta ask lol, which is the left side!!??
looking at the car from the back, or from the front?

oh also which wire do i pierce? what does each of them do?

sitting in the drivers seat your left is the cars left.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #4 – February 19, 2007, 11:06:57 AM

Driver is left, passanger is right...

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #5 – February 19, 2007, 03:00:15 PM

alright. so, now which wire coming from the sensor should i be testing for voltage? i found a graphic of the plug and which pin is which on fordfuelinjection.com but its more proof of jcassity's claim that the site sucks. its amibiguous as to whether or not the view is looking at the female plug, or the male end, as in the one actually wired to the sensor itself, not the one on the car's wiring harness. all i know is i have 3 wires, two white, one black.

and looking at this picture if say, this corresponds to looking at the sensor's plug (male), then the white ones are at "+12 VOLTS" and "HEGO", and the black one is at "GROUND". this doesnt make sense to me because i read on corral that these were grounded through the exhaust pipe. so basically i have no idea what any of the wires are for. i would guess that the black one is the signal which i should measure, since its the odd one out....

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #6 – February 19, 2007, 10:22:32 PM

Without looking it up in wiring dospoogeents, I'd suggest disconnecting the sensors, use a meter with one side connected to chassis ground, and the other side to probe each pin of the connector.

Put the meter in volts mode, you then can locate the 12V wire,as the one with 12 Volts on it. (key on)

Then turn key off and put meter in ohm mode and you can locate the signal rtn and ground wire as they are connected to chassis and should be very low ohms.

This then leaves the one HEGO signal wire that you will need to peirce and monitor while the engine is running.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #7 – February 24, 2007, 03:51:46 PM

today i cut off a little bit of insulation on the black wire, i determined that to be the singal one because i put 12v power to the white ones and sure enough after about 20 seconds i could feel the tip of the sensor getting warm. so those are for the heater.

i tested the voltage (one lead on the multimeter to the wire and one to ground/battery negative right?)

and like 10 seconds after i started it the voltage came up to like .03 volts came back down (the meter goes to thousandths) fluctutating around .015-.010 ish and then i got in the car to rev it up a little and it was at flat zero, maybe .001, revving it didnt make it change. but it didnt ever reach 1V and definitely didnt go back and forth between that and zero in a pattern. so i bought a new one, now i have brand new sensors left and right. havent done a voltage test but i drove it and there is no change in the power and gas consumption.

i did however pull codes when i got home from my test drive and got 94 and 44, thermactor system inoperative both sides, so no problem there. but no other codes. so i guess the o2 circuit is ok now? i hate to say it but that sucks because now i have no idea whats wrong.

what do you guys suggest testing now?

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #8 – February 26, 2007, 02:19:59 PM

next week is spring break.

im home the whole time, i need to ideas for what to check. im thinking i should run it and pull KOER codes once more to be sure the o2 sensor circuit is ok. should i STILL do voltage checks? aka, if i dont receive trouble codes having to do with the o2 sensors does that mean they're all fine, or not?

im trying to approach this logically. the things i changed are what we all (who have done the HO conversion) know.

-the heads had "e7te pa" stampings on them and the valve area looked much different than my old ones, with no divider between the valves.

-the upper intake has an HO stamping on the tube thats casted as part of it that is under the "5.0 liter" plaque, you have to take the plaque off to see it. but then i could have left the UI alone, id lose like 5 hp according to coolcats.net

-throttle body and egr spacer. they are the same size, both much bigger than my original one. they must be right. they also match exactly the hole in the UI. the guy i got em from on corral i trust, he had only good ratings and he frequents there, well, frequently. i dont think he was scamming me, besides, he didnt want $$$$$$$$$$ for em.

-lower intake, use my original according to coolcats

-injectors. got em from fordtruckfreek. they seem to be working because the engine runs smooth, doesnt buck, and they looked to be in good shape. the only thing was that the pintle caps were brittle and hard (dont know if thats how they should be?) i broke a tiny sliver of a couple of them off (the outer thin rim part of it) and heard a couple of them crackle a little as i pushed them into the lower intake. however i cant help but wonder, ONLY because they are something i changed and are different than the originals and are what get the fuel into the engine.

-camshaft, well i re arranged my plug wires to change the firing order to the claimed stang one, and it runs smooth and sounds like it should. the cam also looked different than my original. i also trust the guy on corral i got it from to have given me a mustang cam.

-computer, mark vii one from vinnietbird, how could that be messed up? again runs smoothly.

-MAP sensor i wonder about this thing. ebay. looks fine, BUT the code (E7S blah blah....) was EXACTLY the same as my old one. hmm. however there was white print on a different location than a similar (but not looking exactly the same) print on my old one, and it was a different code, but both about 5 characters i think.

-EVP/EGR sensor/valve--was included with TB. i wonder if it could be faulty. but i unplugged the vac line to it and capped off the line and the car didnt run any different.

i think thats everything. the only thing i can think of right now is the MAP sensor. i might try my old one.

the other thing i worry could have happened is assembling something internal wrong causing a whole bunch of friction loading the engine down. this would kill gas mileage and power, no? but wouldnt i be hearing knocking/banging/grinding/other noises that sound very malignant? wouldnt it have probably shredded something?

i will seriously consider bringing the car to local shop if you guys are as stumped as me. they are family owned, a fairly large place, weve been going there the past few years. honest, FAIR pricing, they tell you details if you want them, and just all around nice people. real CLEAN shop area too. they did my oil pan replacement (was rusted out real bad and leaking). id imagine theyd be able to find them problem.

whew. now im exhausted. lol so what do you guys think?

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #9 – February 26, 2007, 03:15:22 PM

It may be worth it to run the car by a shop and have them look at it.Just have them tell you what's wrong,then you can fix it and save big $$$.Just a thought since you've devoted so much time into it and are still stumped like the rest of us.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #10 – February 26, 2007, 05:35:51 PM

would they do that? i dont really know if the one i mentioned would do that, and we're on very good terms with them. i think it would be impolite to have them diagnose it and then be like "oh no i dont want you to fix it". honestly they probably would but i think they wouldnt be very pleased.

do you think any chain places would do that for me (midas, valvoline, etc..) of course i wouldnt go to valvoline/jiffy lube because of horror stories ive heard from those places.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #11 – February 26, 2007, 05:44:30 PM

I haven't found a gargare that wouldn't do that.They'll charge you for their time and diagnosis,but the reapirs you can do yourself.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #12 – February 26, 2007, 09:52:18 PM

Sounds like a strange one. Only other thing on the HEGO's I would check is if the signal is actually at the computer (peirce the wire just at the computer connector)

What about the Mass Air Flow sensor, you didn't mention it in the write up..

Regarding the thermactor system, on mine, the thermactor solenoids were sticking. I did a simple test of just applying vacuum and then applying voltage to the solenoid. Some soaking with rubbing alcohol got some gunk out and got it working reliably again. These solenoids are the two that are in the passenger side near the firewall/fender, of which one controls the EGR vacuum. I can't see that being the running rich problem though.

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #13 – February 26, 2007, 09:53:59 PM

still haven't got that thing fixed yet man that sucks, i hate the little things they always get you

0-60 mph: 7.1 seconds.

Reply #14 – February 26, 2007, 10:10:18 PM

Mass Air Flow sensor? don't got one. i left it speed density. i wasnt gonna spend all that extra $$ for something i likely wont use. (i think the HO will be plenty of power for me, this aint a hot rod, im like royce67/87/97 im preserving this thing as original but 150 horse just isnt enough for me. besides my whole engine bay still looks stock except for the headers)

the Thermactor System SHOULD be inoperative. I yanked the hoses and stuff since i got an off-road h pipe, and the crossover tube behind the heads, i pulled that, really frees up some space there! i plugged the holes in the heads with metal i cut out to the right shape, bolted on with the tube's bolts, and sealed with hi temp silicone.

i will certainly check at the computer. i have been exhaustive with the HEGO system because of the variables ive encountered with wondering if the old sensors were faulty but the results didnt agree etc....so i will continue to be exhaustive!

daboss, thanks for the sympathy! be happy you have a carbed ride!!! also thats anice tribute to that girl that died in the accident. thats horrible. what a waste. i cant imagine what it would be like if that happened to someone i knew. it shouldnt happen. my sincere condolences. just from the picture she seems like a genuinely nice person. may she rest in peace...:(