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Topic: 3.8 engine bog (Read 3566 times) previous topic - next topic

3.8 engine bog

can anyone tell me what could cause my 84 cougar 3.8 to bog when gas pedal is punched for fast excelleration... it happens at 15 mph or less.  when i launch from the stop light the car tends to bog when i push the gas pedal.. as in moves forwards a little and then bogs then i gotta back out of the gas n go a lil more gently on it and it goes fine.  also when i coast to a stop or when idling the CEL comes on while in gear and usually goes away if i put it in nuetral or park and the idles go up just slightly(from no load) could it be my idle is too low? or a vacuum leak?

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #1
Mine does the same thing. When I pulled the codes I found that I need to replace some egr stuff. Hopefully once I do that, I won't have this problem anymore. Try pulling the codes and see what you get.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #2
update... CEL comes on ONLY after its warmed up. any other ideas... n i outta go check couple things out lol

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #3
Only way to know for sure is to pull the codes. :grinno:
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #4
On an '84 car, though?  The only function of the engine light in a '84 is to warn of low oil pressure of high coolant temp.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #5
:dunno: didn't eec4 start in '84?? :dunno:  :dunno:
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #6
I'm not sure about the nomenclature, but I know pulling codes on an '84 car usually involves a test light hooked up somewhere under the hood.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #7
You have a RED ENGINE light but no AMBER CHECK ENGINE light.
It indicates low oil pressure or overheating.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #8
Quote from: Ifixyawata
On an '84 car, though?  The only function of the engine light in a '84 is to warn of low oil pressure of high coolant temp.


Just as I said.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #9
possibly an O2 sensor. Mine had that problem for a while stopped when i replaced it. Also change the fuel filter.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #10
Quote from: Ifixyawata
I'm not sure about the nomenclature, but I know pulling codes on an '84 car usually involves a test light hooked up somewhere under the hood.


That is how I pulled the codes on my 87 3.8. I believe Masterblaster has a very good diagram on how to do this.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #11
well i got the codes pulled and they said my TPS is bad and my egr or solinoid is possibly bad had 3 codes but i dont remember the number on it. and as far as that check engine light goes its ONLY when it warms up and is in gear and stopped. well anyone know how much TPS runs and how hard it is to install? and egr n solinoid while were at it thanks for your help

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #12
oh btw the plug ins for the codes are under the washer resivoire on my 84 3.8 2 plugs a small one n a large one

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #13
The reason the light only comes on when the car is warm and idling in gear is because it's coming on due to a low oil pressure reading.  Either you actually have low oil pressure or the sending switch is defective, allowing it to read lower than it really is.  Get a guage if you want to be sure.

Re: 3.8 engine bog

Reply #14
hesitation symptoms (i dont have this problem anymore but fought it for several years)

remove fuel injector screens and or replace them

remove the cfi and egr base plate and chip away at the carbon

check tps for a smooth voltage on the green wire to ground,, should be less than a volt with the key on. move linkage and watch the voltage increase to about 4.6vdc. its best to use an buttstuffog meter (needle) for this test.

Gut the cat on the intermediate pipe.