Header Help

Topic: Header Help (Read 5848 times) previous topic - next topic

Header Help

September 05, 2006, 07:57:14 PM

I’m putting in FRPP shortys on my bird and I’m having a real hard time on the drivers side motor mount ishiznitting bad I already butchered it buy cutting and bending the mount w/ the torch but still itshiznitting and I cant cut any more due to the rubber underneath. Any suggesting quickly will help, since I’m on it right now.

Header Help

Reply #1 – September 05, 2006, 08:03:59 PM

hammer+header=clearence?

seriously.. if you cant get you header to mount up correctly.. heatup the flow tube and dent it.. so it will clear the mount

Header Help

Reply #2 – September 05, 2006, 08:16:37 PM

I really didn’t want to do that (mess w/ the header) but is this a normal problem. I had the mustang headers on and no clearance issues I been at this all day cutting off the old exhaust took forever, tried putting in long tubes and that wasn’t happening. had the shortys thinking they would go right in ha I was mistaking.
And i also dont want to mess w/ the header cause I'm waiting for CHUCK W to make another batch of those motor mounts hope that will make things better. thats why i butchered my old mount not careing knowing it will be replaced soon

Header Help

Reply #3 – September 05, 2006, 09:33:27 PM

Chucks MM's will help obviously, but I was able to scallop the drivers mount to clear the FRPP shorties using a grinder. I ground at the same angle of the pipe and most where it washiznitting. I'm surprised you are having so much trouble, though this is a known issue.

Header Help

Reply #4 – September 05, 2006, 09:37:59 PM

What size are they?I installed BBK 1 5/8 shorties with absolutely no interference with my mounts.

Header Help

Reply #5 – September 05, 2006, 10:09:52 PM

This is my problem you see the long bottom runner. Well it keepshiznitting the mount so in pic#2 you could see the butcher job I did. But it is still hitting. And I really don’t want to heat and bend the pipe.

Header Help

Reply #6 – September 05, 2006, 10:45:18 PM

That's just the shackle...the theory behind this factory system is that, if the rubber mount breaks, the shackle can still hold together the motor mount.

It doesn't work.

Don't feel like you have to keep it. By all means...torch that mofookie outta there...problem solved. :D

Header Help

Reply #7 – September 05, 2006, 11:17:50 PM

The problem now is the part circled I would like to pound it down about 1/4 of an inch. But it can’t see that happening due to the rubber underneath. And if it does work what happens when the motor talks will hit the header.

Header Help

Reply #8 – September 06, 2006, 01:08:00 AM

You seem to have circled the right spot where I ground a scalloped area in the mount. Look at the pictures closely and you can see:

Header Help

Reply #9 – September 06, 2006, 08:17:33 AM

Maybe you should lift the motor justa little,pull the mount,and get a grinder after it before you ruin the rubber with the torch.It would probablt save you a lot of time in the long run by doing that.

Header Help

Reply #10 – September 06, 2006, 12:30:28 PM

I would just run the factory mustang headers. There is no real gain in horsepower by replacing the factory mustang shorties with aftermarket shorties. I have mine set up for the mustang/mark VII shorties and they fit great.

Header Help

Reply #11 – September 06, 2006, 04:35:03 PM

Theres a few things you can do,first off your cookin them mounts,
You can weld a chain on in place of the "fail safe".Chevy did it for years as a recall.I don't like to do this but you could double the gasket,It might give you the clearence you need.I know bbk's fit,
Just some more to think about.

Header Help

Reply #12 – September 07, 2006, 12:00:45 PM

Well there pretty close to being on. For those of you who are worried burning everything w/the torch. I haven’t used it since that last pic yesterday I cleaned it up a bit w/the grinding wheel and started grinding away metal off the mount to fit the header. I’m almost there but I had to walk away from it. Maybe latter today ill hit it again.
Now what I’m not happy about besides this ugly motor mount is the fact that I have some exposed plastic and the header is going to be real close. So I think I should invest in a fire extinguisher for the car just in case.

Header Help

Reply #13 – September 08, 2006, 10:01:31 PM

Alright so I finished so I thought. Ill have pics soon of the drivers/side motor mount of what I did. But the story now is started the car up and man did it sound good even revved it a little. What a sound w/ the x-pipe and straight pipes no s. The only thing I thought I had to do was get an extender for the pass/side o2 sensor. So I drop the car off the jack stands to go for a ride and the car is stuck in gear cant get it out of park.
Soo my question to you all is any quick tips I walked away from it right now tomorrow ill dig in again. But what I’m confused is it’s a floor mount AOD and a BBK X-pipe and the pipe is leaning on the trany linkage aside the trany now I’m sure its got to be a simple fix due to that the alignment of a mustang is the same (motor-headers-xpipe &motor-trany).

If anyone had this problem before please help because tomorrow I’m probably going to try and fix it.

Header Help

Reply #14 – September 08, 2006, 10:23:38 PM

1. Mark where linkage hits X-pipe with a permanent marker.
2. Drop X-pipe.
3. Massage marked area with the hammer of your choice (ballpeen is perfect).
4. Reattach and check clearance.
5. Repeat all steps if necessary.

You could also take the X-pipe to a ler shop and have them put a pinch in that area...it looks better and you usually get a more coherent clearance. But the hammer works great in the home garage. Let us know if that helps.