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Topic: tail shaft bushing SOLVED (Read 4096 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: tail shaft bushing SOLVED

Reply #15
Quote from: Chuck W
I need to do the same thing on the T-5 in the Ranger....

TurboCoupe50....am I missing something..or did you do this with the tranny still in the car and left the old bushing inside the trans?


Yup its basically what Scott said in the previous post. except I used a spare yoke and a hammer to drive the new bushing in place. Also I clamped the two new bushings together with a hose clamp so they would not distort(had one clamped at the far end of the full bushing as well).

Important, you do not want to drive the bushing all the way back till it spins on the outputshaft. Why???? You'll be wondering what is eating up your speedo gears if you do(had this exact problem years ago on a C4 tranny in a Falcon).


Scott I basically forgot about doing it, since it was a couple of years ago. Sorry......

Re: tail shaft bushing SOLVED

Reply #16
Ok, cool.  That's actually easier than I thought.  I did find the procedure in one of my factory manuals though, and they don't remove the housing either.  I'll have to give that a go then.  The ed thing is leaking and there is more play than I think there should be.  I have a couple T-5's I need to do that to.

Thanks
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

 

Re: tail shaft bushing SOLVED

Reply #17
see drawings below to compare what the heck it is im talking about.

rear view extenion housing........
there are three slots you see after your old seal comes off.
the points called A are holes that pass all the way thru up inside the extention housing
The point called B dead ends.

Sloted type bushing
can be removed easily by locating the slot on your old one
pry down on it all the way down the slot with a thin tool
loosen it up by tapping on the new exposed edge
it will free spin and allow you to pull with needle nose
i understand that this bushing can be installed backwards if you dont pay attention.
i drew a wide area towards the inner edge of this bushings lubrication channel for a reason. 
this wider V'd out channel inserts facing the front of the car
it acts as a front door for inbound tranny fluid.

Solid type bushing
if you cant find the slot on the edgeways of the old bushing by viewing up the rear of the tailshaft, you probably have the solid type.  if so,, i made a tool for this a few years ago but only had to use it once. see pic
this bushing will have a hole which always and for ever facing the gorund.  why? i dont know  cause the area called B in the tailshaft view dead end, maybe after the seal is on, its like a holding tank for tranny fluid.

the tool
made from grade 8, 1/4  20 threaded rod cut into three parts and ginded,bent and tack welded up as per the pic below.  It takes advantage of the two points called "A" that allow this tool to be inserted and hooked behind the old bushing.  Once the tool is in there and you can tell your hooked behind the old bushing with each pr0ng of the tool,, you work the slap hammer tilll it comes out.


or............
removel of tailshaft assy

remove drive shaft
remove old rear seal
remove catalytic
remove the two bolts mating the tranny to the tranny mount
remove driver side tranny cross memeber bolt and allow it to swing down
unplug speedo sensor
remove 6 tranny tailshaft bolts and free up tailshaft
bang out old bushing
place new bushing in hole and start it by hand
lay tshirt over bushing and flip tailshaft housing upside down
raise tailshaft a few inches and allow its own weight to fall onto a hard surface(using the tshirt as protection)
repeat this a few times but you have to finish seating it with the back side of a very large socket/hammer(use a cloth or something to protect it once again)

*tip for installing drive shaft
slip the yoke inside tranny
put car in "N"
rotate driveshaft until you can line up holes on the rear end for the 4  12mm 16pt bolts.
use some sort of glue or silicone on the drive shaft bolts (hint-loc-tite)
install everything back in reverse order.