Trouble codes and chaos

Topic: Trouble codes and chaos (Read 3899 times) previous topic - next topic

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #15 – January 30, 2018, 05:21:05 PM

That’s correct John. The top is broken off (where the vacuum hoses attach) and I can look inside and see the copper windings. Ahhh okay I didn’t know about attaching them together or plugging. Thanks for that tip as I will plug them before I add the Gillis. I need to work out all the bugs.

On a side note, SS Exhaust manifolds from the likes of XS. Any good or stay away? My stock one has been welded a few times and some hero decided to weld part of the Turbo to the manifold. Guess what? I have an exhaust leak. :)

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #16 – January 30, 2018, 06:48:04 PM

I can't comment on the aftermarket manifold..... I still have the stocker. Are you sure it's been welded and not some goop epoxy....cast isn't easy to weld and I can't imagine someone welding the turbo to manifold.

There are a few Turbocoupe specific sites that might have more info on manifolds.....NATO and TF come to mind. You can also look at Stinger's site ....I don't know if he offers manifolds.

John

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #17 – January 30, 2018, 07:00:52 PM

Yeah I believe they did weld it. I am contemplating taking it all down. I guess eventually I will have to do it anyways.

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #18 – January 30, 2018, 07:31:42 PM

Awe man that sucks!!!! Judging by the soot, you may be leaking at the turbo to down elbow. That rubber hose for the EGR pipe probably isn't helping either....looks like it's seen better days.

John

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #19 – January 30, 2018, 08:10:41 PM

Good eye John. You would be totally correct as that is where the leak is coming from. The other bad news is the 2 bolts holding the exhaust on are rusted and would not budge. So it looks like I may be removing everything with the manifold/Turbo as an assembly. That’s why I was contemplating getting one of those stainless manifolds for cheap, but worried about them cracking. Heard that XS Power company is essentially the same as SSAutochrome that gets mixed reviews. Stinger no longer makes one :( Yeah this weekend I will be removing almost all the vacuum hoses and replacing. They are very questionable.

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #20 – February 03, 2018, 11:03:59 AM

Hey all. So out here finally working on the car and found this. Hose to what looks to be connected to the bottom of the EGR solenoid was totally disconnected. Also what is that little tiny line? Is it supposed to have a hose on it? Hopefully someone can respond while I am out working on it. Thanks! Having issues with loading images. Figures

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #21 – February 03, 2018, 12:12:19 PM

EGR Solenoid on the strut tower or do you mean the EGR valve on the intake?

The solenoid should have 2 small lines. One from vac source and the other to the vac port on the EGR valve.

The EGR valve normally has a steel pipe running from the exhaust manifold .....which I think someone put rubber hose on yours....... And a small vac line from the solenoid.

Hope that helps
John

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #22 – February 03, 2018, 01:00:18 PM

That does help John. Thanks! I think I got it figured out. It’s on the EGR solenoid. I had to get a hose and rerouted some stuff. What threw me off was the item under the solenoid. I think it’s the boost buzzer? I will leave that vacuum hose disconnected as it doesn’t go anywhere anyways. Someone ripped the top EGR plastic vacuum line off and it left just the small nipple and it was vented to air. Got lines on both to the EGR solenoid now

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #23 – February 03, 2018, 05:14:54 PM

So after all of this I got the car running much better. It starts and idles like it should. It does not shake much at all now. I took it for a little test run and the gauge showed only 5 psi of boost. I know those gauges are not very accurate, but the car felt like an old Honda Civic powerwise. One issue is I went under the car, found the metal wastegate line, tried to tug on it and it wouldn’t budge much at all. Maybe a 32nd of movement...so really not much at all. Aren’t you supposed to test them by pulling by hand or am I wrong? How do you fix a stuck wastegate? Thanks

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #24 – February 04, 2018, 05:36:28 PM

You need to disconnect the arm to make sure it moves freely. If you plugged the 2 BCS lines 5psi is about all you can expect since your not bypassing the WG. Attach them together you should see more.

Glad to hear your making progress.
John

Trouble codes and chaos

Reply #25 – February 04, 2018, 06:42:42 PM

Thanks John. Actually what I ended up doing was using the original boost valve. I took it apart and found all it was was just an o-ring holding it together. So I reassembled it and the lid stayed on tight. Put on a new hose for the one side as it was pretty rough looking. So the stock controller should be functioning correctly now. I will need to see what I can do with the wastegate one weekend. I can hear some minor whine from the Turbo when driving, but it sure doesn’t kick in the power like most Turbo cars do. Still not ruling out fuel pump issues, but do not have a tester yet.