A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #240 – June 24, 2013, 11:18:56 AM Quote from: fordguy545;417505You could try one of those speedysleeve's. Its pretty much a repair kit for the crank to repair the wear grooves in the sealing surface. However, you probably have a brand new crank which should've been fine. Just a thought Good thought though! It is a new crank and it looks spotless. I've ordered the Fel-Pro "high pressure" two piece seal and it'll be here tomorrow. I'll offset the seal ~1/2", ensuring the cap and the block lock together. Once it's assembled, we'll fill it full of oil and flood the seal area again, by tilting the engine. If it leaks, I'll be clueless on how to fix it, but at least I won't have to pull it again! Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #241 – June 24, 2013, 11:49:54 AM If it leaks again try a 1 piece seal. Sucks that youve had to year that beauty apart so many times. Hope youre leakage issue gets resolved soon Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #242 – June 24, 2013, 02:26:45 PM Quote from: 87thunderbirdBlackJack;417527If it leaks again try a 1 piece seal. Sucks that youve had to year that beauty apart so many times. Hope youre leakage issue gets resolved soon Thanks. On the plus side, we are beginning to getting pretty good at the R&R! I've checked into the 1 piece option this morning. The block would need to be machined to adapt it. Cross that bridge if I come to it. Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #243 – June 24, 2013, 06:39:47 PM you are siliconing the rear main bearing cap right? I know that has made lots of people scratch their heads after multiple rear main changes. Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #244 – June 24, 2013, 09:51:37 PM Quote from: fordguy545;417536you are siliconing the rear main bearing cap right? I know that has made lots of people scratch their heads after multiple rear main changes. Yup, it wasn't leaking were the cap joins the block. Did the normal install tricks..., thought we had it licked the last time around. The HP seal will be here tomorrow and we'll offset it and see if takes care of it. Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #245 – June 25, 2013, 08:46:10 AM Good luck Mark....May the force be with you... :)Travis Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #246 – June 25, 2013, 05:27:22 PM Oil leaks suck. Hopefully this fixes it :). Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #247 – June 26, 2013, 12:09:51 PM Put it back together last night. Offset the seal, put RTV on the cap, installed studs for the pan & used pan rails, and then put two bottles of dye into the oil to make any leak would be easily visible with the black light. Hung it up to flood the seal for ~40 minutes. No leaks.Reinstallation begins this afternoon.The moral of the story: On any rebuild, fill the crankcase full of oil, install the crank bolts and hang the engine at an angle to flood the rear main seal, BEFORE putting the engine in! Painful lesson in this case, but pain creates memories of what to avoid...A side note on the studs for the oil pan: Canton sell them for $10 though Summit. They are a really cheap way to help seal an oil pan. Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #248 – June 27, 2013, 04:39:16 PM Sweet...Mark....Success...Travis Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #249 – June 27, 2013, 07:30:44 PM As of last night, the engine & trans are in and the headers are on. 6 hours. The knowledge gleaned from the last two pulls greatly sped up the process.The 1 3/4 Hooker Super Comp headers are a two man job (they're 3 pieces each). One guy has to hold up top, while the other crawls under the car and fits the tubes in place. Two other tricks to get them to bolt up. Only use 3/4" bolts, anything longer binds on the tubes & pen 15s the bolts for a cross thread. Tighten each bolt a little across the face of the . Pull one in too far and the rest of the bolts bind on the tubes, creating the potential for crossing the threads. Finally, if the bolts still bind, the tubes have to be clearanced. The first time I put these on, it took three days!The trans when in from underneath with little issue this time. Using an actual input shaft(as opposed to the plastic alignment tool provided in the clutch kit) to align the dual clutch discs and creating some 3" alignment dowels from bolts, made the job much easier. Now to find the time to do the easy stuff. Quote Selected
A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! Reply #250 – June 28, 2013, 08:08:49 AM MarkI remember those big ass Long tubes....now I dont feel so bad about having to remove my 3.5" DP...I need to remove passenger header, turbo, then take the DP out from the bottom...its a super packaging problem. Better be worth it...Travis Quote Selected
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Topic: A few upgrades: 5/20/13 Pics outside the garage! (Read 45479 times)
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